Arriving at work yesterday morn and popped the top hose. Thought it odd and reconnected and wouldnt start. Scanguage said 247*. Went back 3 hrs later filled with distilled water to replace the gallon I lost w/ temp down to 202* and would restart but quickly climbed and shut down at 246. Tried at lunch time again and it shut down. Made it after work to auto parts store at 242*. Switched out Tstat and the coolant was hot-warm. Thinking the sensor was bad, replaced that and as I was buttoning her up and refilling, I heard the tinkle and looked down and a nice steady stream from pumps weephole which wasnt there all day. I replaced that waterpump a couple of weeks ago so I bought a new one there and figured I'd swap it out today and return it but I have to work now and tomorrow with company over, probably not till monday. Here's my question, Where are the heat numbers coming from since the collant was obvious only warm and is there another problem thats causing the pump to blow its seal that I'm not seeing? I thought that I might have a pocket at the sensor that was just reading hot air but couldnt get the system to burp so to speak when replenishing the oringinal lost gallon. Thanks in advance. Frank A

 

Coolant temps aren't accurate. If you want an idea of engine temp, read the oil temp. Let us know how it acts after the new water pump.

 

My question would be why did it pop the hose to begin with. Any way to see how much pressure the system is under? With it busting a hose and when you replaced it and then the new pump.
Hope you find what ever it is
Good luck John

 

EOT, I believe was about 195 -200 just minutes before I pulled in to work. The oil temp rarely goes over 207 and is generally 12-15 above coolant. (I'll tackle the oil cooler later this spring) I put new clamps on the upper hose when I changed the pump and both ends were loose. maybe cheapo clamps. the truck has been sitting since 7 last night so the temp should be ambient and I'll run it in place and monitor the temps w/ the old pump in before I pull it.

 

Can't measure coolant temp with a scanner. PCM doesn't know coolant temp sensor even exists, there is no physical connection. Coolant sensor only goes to the gauge in the cab. It's just a false reading so don't let it blindside you.

 

Just got in and I'm a bit confused about the water temp sensor. Scanguage shows it as ECT and w/ my guage (displayed simultaneously) they are both dead even and generally 15* less than oil temp. From what I've read, the PCM's operations make no references to water temp but it does for oil temp. I recall that w/ a fault signal from the Oil temp, the PCM will assume 212* for operation control. So when that mysterious 247 shows up, what is making the engine shut off? very strange. Ok, I'll ignore water temp sensor info for the PCM. What has me wondering is if my oil cooler is plugged (giving me warm water at the oulet). The water at the tstat comes directly from the cooler so if it is clogged is the pump building pressure, deadheading at the cooler and blowing the pump seal? Any way to easily check the cooler w/out its removal before I replace this 2 two week old pump? Thanks

 

So am I!

There are two water temp sensors on the front of the block, the one on the water pump that's the sending unit for the gauge and about 8-10" over towards the passenger side is another one that lights the engine overheat light. That switch closes and lights the light at 247*. I don't know if that 247 is just a coincidence or maybe your scangauge is reading that sensor. For all I know the PCM might even shut you down at that temp sorta like the IDM shuts down a bank of injectors when is senses a wiring problem.

 

The water pump produces little to no pressure. It's the temperature of the coolant that produces pressure. Sounds like you have a restriction somewhere (could be the oil cooler, but it could be the thermostat sticking closed, or the radiator is clogged, or somewhere else), or you're blowing combustion gas into the cooling system, which would raise both the temperature and pressure.

As for the Scangauge, they can be rigged to read sensors separate from the PCM, such as an EGT. Did you buy the truck with the Scangauge, or have it installed by someone else? Maybe they set it up for engine temp, with an independent sensor. Does the dash temp gauge do anything?

 

Just to confirm the water switch location; its right next to the output tube on left w/ single post ? I truely cant remember where that light is on the dash and I also dont recall seeing it lit but then again i sas looking at my pillar guage and the scanguage on the left side, so I quess i could have missed it.

I've owned this since day one and I installed the scanguage myself. I located shared programming options from various 7.3/scanguage users. There are many as you say able to read the snensors but not all work and some parameters need to be fiddled w/ to get what you need.

On the possible blockages, I did drain the radiators when I put in the pump and even though I didnt measure the quantity, it seemed to flow okay. How do I go about checking for a combution gas leakage in the coolant system and perhaps I should take the extra day to do the cooler as well.

 

An interesting thing I learned the other day is how to make a degree symbol. 247° to make a degree symbol you press and hold the Alt key while typing 0176. just thought I'd share. did you pull the pump yet? howd it look? byt the way theres a whole list of alt characters you can make. ☺ ☻

 

°

I like that. I wonder how long I can remember it.

 

I have ran both my PSD's well into the red, once when the T-stat stuck and the other when I forgot to put the cap on the degas bottle and it boiled it all out after a couple hours. Neither of them shut down...

I always used ALT 0186 for the º..... Alt 0176 makes a slightly smaller one °.....

Diesel Rod

 

That's why I asked Ken where all that stuff is so I can bookmark it or I'll forget also.

 

Hate to jack the thread but ok this what i have. facebook aparently isnt the cesspool i usually call it. straight from my timeline...

Alt + 0153..... ™... trademark symbol
Alt + 0169.... ©.... copyright symbol
Alt + 0174..... ®....registered ­ trademark symbol
Alt + 0176 ...°......degree symbol
Alt + 0177 ...±....plus-or ­-minus sign
Alt + 0182 ...¶.....paragr­aph mark
Alt + 0190 ...¾....fractio­n, three-fourths
Alt + 0215 ....×.....multi­plication sign
Alt + 0162...¢....the ­ cent sign
Alt + 0161.....¡..... ­.upside down exclamation point
Alt + 0191.....¿..... ­upside down question mark
Alt + 1.......☺....smiley face
Alt + 2 ......☻.....black smiley face
Alt + 15.....☼.....sun
Alt + 12......♀.....female sign
Alt + 11.....♂......m­ale sign
Alt + 6.......♠.....spade
Alt + 5.......♣...... ­Club
Alt + 3.......♥...... ­Heart
Alt + 4.......♦...... ­Diamond
Alt + 13......♪.....e­ighth note
Alt + 14......♫...... ­beamed eighth note
Alt + 8721.... ∑.... N-ary summation (auto sum)
Alt + 251.....√.....square root check mark
Alt + 8236.....∞..... ­infinity
Alt + 24.......↑..... ­up arrow
Alt + 25......↓...... ­down arrow
Alt + 26.....→.....r­ght arrow
Alt + 27......←.....l­eft arrow
Alt + 18.....↕......u­p/down arrow
Alt + 29......↔...lef­t right arrow

 

Four birthdays later w/ two in Philly and my computer crashing lately. I hve'nt had access since my last post but here's what happened...

Swapped out the water pump (looked fine) and changed out the water temp sender (F1SZ-10884-A) and cleaned the oxidation off the water temp switch which is about 10 oclock to the pump and lights up the high coolant temp idiot light which I cant cant find when I put the ignition switch to start and all the lights come on. High engine temp yes but no high coolant temp light.

The high coolant temp switch (SW-5007 / F4TZ-10884-B) is discontinued and not available from dealer. Perhaps only after market places. After flushing the system, replacing the pump and cleaning the contact of the high coolant temp switch, the problem of the engine shutting down at 247 went away as the temp never went that high. the T-stat opened up around 190 and never went above 207 with some hard driving while the EOT was at 209. Problem solved but w/ no reason why. My suggestion on an air pocket being heated up with that temp being sent to the
PCM is most probably off base as that switch is at same elevation on the coolant sender. While I was at the dealer I picked up and replaced the EOT sender (9U2Z-12A648-A w/ pigtail as its contact connection are now different (behind and horizontal to the HPOP resovoir) and the oil pressure switch (F6TZ-9278-AA) at the top of the resovoir. Go figure.