Almost ready to fire my 352 turned into a 390. i.e. (crank, rods, pistons)
With the new intake and new distributor no old marks to work off, I have the engine at TDC compression stroke, rotor is at 1 o-clock as you look at the engine, and the vacuum advance is at 6 o-clock
My question is about the breaker points, as i rotate the distributor the points open and close, at what point doses the spark send? Is it when the points touch? or when the points open? After that all I have to do is make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 on the cap.

 

A cam in the center of the distributor pushes a lever connected to one of the points. Whenever the cam pushes the lever, it opens the points. This causes the coil to suddenly lose its ground, generating a high-voltage pulse. found the answer on HOW STUFF WORKS, now all i have to do is rotated the distributor clockwise till the points start to open

 

Here's how to set the timing: With the #1 plug wire loose, stick a phillips screw driver into the spark plug end, hold it next to a ground, turn the ignition switch "ON", then slowly rotate the distributor back and forth, watching for the spark. When it sparks, stop moving the distributor and lock it down. The timing should be set exactly where the pointer is aligned on the balancer. I would recommend replacing the points with a Pertronix unit (or any other brand of electronic drop in unit) Just setting the point gap is only the starting point, you must then use a dwell meter to get the dwell setting to get the full benefit. Even then, as the points wear, the dwell changes too. With an electronic unit, you set it once, then forget it.

 

Good info I will do that. my wife will kill me if I buy another thing for the engine, will upgrade at a later time.

Got a new problem now, I have my motor turned to TDC on compression stroke, the ditributer is picky and wont drop in with the rotor pointing to were I need it and aline with the cap on #1 plug wire, it should be around 1 or 2 oclock, I can get it to point to 1 or 2 oclock but the dizzy wont seat, if it would seat I could get it, but the points arent aligned to open as the rotor turns counter clockwise.
The best I can get is points open at TDC on #5 wire, so the question is can I move the wires over one slot and have no problem?

 

Yea, you can jump em all over one notch. Just remember that you did this next time you go to do a tune up on it and pull the wires off. Or you can pull the distributor back out and using a 1/4" drive 3/8" socket (I think that's what size the FE's oil drive is) turn the oilpump shaft a little, then restab the distributor. Tape the socket to a long extension before sticking it down the hole, just to insure it doesn't come loose and drop into the oilpan.

 

I have an oil priming rod and was using that to turn the shaft, I must have spent 2 hours trying to get it to drop, I had read somewhere doesnt matter where to wires are as long as there in the right position to fire TDC on #1 cylinder and the rest of the firing order is correct, just wanted to check it over with the more experiance people here on FTE. Thanks everyone

 

If you have one of those remote starter buttons, you can always hold 'down' pressure on the distributor and bump the starter a couple times, it'll drop right in place. The distributor gear is meshed with the cam gear, so it won't affect your timing. Just be sure you've marked where wire #1 goes on the distributor housing with a Sharpie or something so you don't get the plug wires mixed up.

 

Ya i'm pretty sure its the cam gear not allowing it to drop in, tomorrow ill get it in position and turn the motor with the crank a bit and see if she'll drop, if not I'll just have to remember the wire positions.

hopefully tomorrow I'll fire the beast and post the video on youtubeeven if it turns into an oil spitting fireball mess, this is my first complete rebuild

 

One other problem you might have is the intake being out of line with the distributor hole in the block. Try loosening the intake bolts, then wiggle the distributor and see if it drops into place then. Of course after doing this, there's no guarantee the intake gaskets are going to seal if it disturbs any sealer you used in putting the intake on. Ford intakes had a slot in the underside that aligned with a pin sticking up out of the block to align the intake, If I'm not mistaken the Edelbrock intakes do not.

 

I GOT IT
thanks to the advise, i removed the dizzy, and all 8 spark plugs, set the rotor were it pointed about 11-12 oclock and held pressure as a turn the motor by hand dropped right in wit rotor pointing to 1ish oclock, just wasn't grabbing in the right spot on the cam gear, turned the motor 2 revolutions to 8 degrees advance compression stroke, rotated the dizzy so the points were closed, and if i were to turn the dizzy clockwise the points would open, put all wires in the correct firing order with #1 wire being at 1 o'clock on the cap, replaced the cap, used a screw driver in #1 wire, turned ignition on, turned the dizzy clockwise till I got a ZAP.
MAN that was easy
I am so appreciative of all the advise you guys offer.

After breaking in the cam for 20 min at 2000 RPM I will set the timing to 12 degrees

THANKS

 

I hope that "ZAP" wasn't you getting shocked Glad to see you've got it runnin.

 

It just tingles your arm a little.

A word from the wise. Don't forget that you're holding the ground clamp in your hand when you go to strike an arc.

1234 posts. I need a life.

 

Dont you know by now 1972redneck there is no life in Mootana. I drive thru there just as fast as I can.

 

The same can be said about Washington state. What with all the loons populating the west slope of the Cascades.

 

Ageed about the west side. Thank goodness Im on the eastside of the state. Unfortunately the west side runs this state. There is no way to drive thru the westside of the state fast especially around 5pm.
Im thinking the east side of Washington state needs to combine with the north part or panhandle of Idaho and make our own state. Leave the loons behind.