What oil weight should I use in a 1964 f-100 with a 292?
#1
What oil weight should I use in a 1964 f-100 with a 292?
What weight oil do you all use for these old trucks? I have a 1964 F-100 with a 292. I have heard that I should be using straight 30 and should try to stay away from additives? Is this true? With that being said what type of oil should I put in it?
Thanks
Thanks
#4
10w-30 is the ford norm... if it is leaking then 10w-40 is okay or even 20w-50 if it is leaking alot... especially if you live in a warm weather area.. but if it is leaking severely and oil pressure is low... time to rebuild it.... If the engine is tired don't run it til it dies, you might damage the block better to rebuild a bit early.
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#7
API-SN multi viscosity with 40 or higher (10w40, 20w50, etc), no additives.
API-SN 10w30 or lower will require an additive.
If the oil has no API rating, check with the manufacturer.
You can always ask your favorite oil manufacturer which oil they recommend for use with flat tappet cams. They know their stuff better than anyone else.
API-SN 10w30 or lower will require an additive.
If the oil has no API rating, check with the manufacturer.
You can always ask your favorite oil manufacturer which oil they recommend for use with flat tappet cams. They know their stuff better than anyone else.
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#10
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Banner WY Pop 42, yes 42
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I use 10-30 synthetic oil (Amsoil) year around. No need for any additives with synthetic oil I live in Wyoming, 100 degrees summer, minus 20 degrees winter. I have heard (don't know if it is true) that if you have a engine oil leak or burring a lot of oil, synthetic oil may make it worse. My engine is newly rebuilt so not an issue.
#11
My research on synthetic oil is basically this- You may see a slight increase in oil consumption or leakage because the oil is better at lubricating parts. Even though it is is the same weight of oil, it does a better job of getting in between parts, this increases its ability to lubricate an engine. This also causes it to get between engine rings and leaks. This isn't a bad thing. This makes it a more effective lubricant, you just may have to top it off more than normal.
Any increase in leakage/burning is not going to be significantly more than with conventional oil.
Any increase in leakage/burning is not going to be significantly more than with conventional oil.
#12
I use Amsoil Z-Rod 10W-30. It's good for flat tappet engines because it has lots of zinc. As to what others were saying about synthetic using more oil, that is generally not true. It does not thin out when it gets hot, like conventional oil. Thinner oil will obviously slip past the rings quicker. Some brands had problems with extra leakage early in the development, but I really don't think AMSOIL did. They were the first synthetics to be developed for autos.
#13
I have heard of higher Zinc content oils being recommended for older engines. Especially if you are unsure of the age of things like your valves which can benefit from the zinc. Valvoline VR1 comes in a couple weights and has a good amount of ZDDP. I think you an find it in at least 20W-50 and straight 30W. I'll be using it (20W-50) in my 223 as soon as I finish replacing the engine gaskets.
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