like i said sometimes im overly blunt. hopefully you didnt take my comment the wrong way. very few people really know how to check blowby. i learned about removing the cac tubes the hardway

 

Man there is NO way you could upset me. I'm not worthy... (picture bowing with hands out). Totally different worlds and I own a 6.0 and do and will need people like you to help me. I didn't go into much specifics on the leakdown but it was a set pressure and a set time that you took readings...

I'm outa' this one before I bury myself in this hole I've dug...

 

get a hold of bismic. iirc he has found an ok way to do it and made a fixed orface to test with.
test with the turbo tubes on first, if the reading is high then remove the tubes and retest.
o i also forgot you test blowby at 3000 rpm should be under 10hg" imo thats still pretty high ideall would be 0-2hg" livable 4hg", overhaul time is 6hg" but that is just thinking vs the spec of 10hg"

 

leak down test is what i'd have suggested. you are putting
100ish pounds of air in the cylinder, and measuring leakage
as a percentage. it's the best way to measure taper in a bore.
while it doesn't give absolutes, it's great for comparison. you
can find the weak cylinder, or the weak part of a cylinder.

a bore micrometer doesn't even come close to providing the information
leakdown does.... it was developed as a spin off of an air gauge,
and air gauges routinely can measure deviations to five decimal places,
which is ten millionths of an inch.

http://www.threadcheck.com/technical...mensionair.pdf

 

Creator,
I have both the tools leak down and the orifice for the blow by.
If you want I can see if I can get a reasonable measurement of the
orifice and a photo of the device. Your going to have to come up
with a manometer to see what it's pushing out or find a magnehelic.
Series 2000 | Magnehelic® Differential Pressure Gage | Dwyer Instruments

Let me know what you need and I'll try to find the info.
PM me with your email address and I can send you the test in a PDF.

Sean

 

leak down is great to measure cyclinder loss... sometimes. its not common practice to test for it on a diesel. it may have something to do with cyclinder dusting, i think this is why we have been tought to do blowby insteed. then again its just my theory as to why

 

.04 on a Diesel may be on the high side. The only thing so far that bothers me is the valve damage. Really it isn't unacceptable to use that valve if the seat margin was ok and it was not bent. Would I do it? Hell no! Would a mass re manufacturer do it? Yes! Would they bore 3 cylinders at .04 over and the other 5 at .03? Yes! Would I be happy? No! Would I buy another engine from them? No! I legally could not return it either if there was nothing wrong and it ran fine. This is not the case with your situation.

.06 on a gas engine is the absolute high. We tried to never go more than .04 on any engine unless the owner insisted on it! Race stuff for the strip was an exception we would go .06. .040 max on oval track stuff. .030 on daily driven engines. We offered a 12/12 warranty which was the norm 20 yrs ago.

GM had warranty work done in the late 80's that if it took more than .010 they replaced the engine.


I never used a gauge on engines to test blow by on the crank case. If it was chugging oil vapor out of the filler neck it was not right! I don't care what anyone says is acceptable! Chugging vapor out the filler usually means you have rings that are not sealing and if it is out of the break in period it is an issue!

Leak down tests are great to pinpoint what is not sealed. But if you do not know how to pinpoint the leak it will mislead you!

In all honesty if you plan on suing these so called machinists/engine builders, I would recommend not posting anything until you talk to an attorney.

I know your frustration and have been involved in a few lawsuits when running an engine shop. My attorney that makes $450 an hour would sue you for defamation and slander. Regardless if you are right and I sold you a piece of trash! He would tie you up in court for years just because he can!

Most shops have insurance for situations like this and would turn it over to the insurance company after they tried to make it right.

Have you sent a certified letter stating what your not satisfied with, issues you are having and with a laid out set of conditions you expect to be met? What the consequences will be if they are not?

Unfortunately you are not local to them to apply pressure. If you are not within driving distance(you pick a distance hour wise that is acceptable to you) you should not do this type of business. I road race motorcycles and if I was going to have a race engine done, I will not do business with someone that I can not go to their shop and see the facility and talk to them. I have driven up to 15 hours one way to drop off, get to know and pick up my engines.

Lastly what warranty documentation did you get? Was there a list of parts you had to replace to get this warranty? I put in a junk yard engine and it came with a 2 year warranty that was only valid if I replaced 20 items! On a remained from Jasper, they sell you an install kit for a few hundred with all of that stuff!

I know where you are at on this....I have been on both sides of this situation! Believeme it sucks no matter what side you are on!

 

I've got a Manometer, and a vacume gauge which is what I was considering using.
edit: I actually have a leak down tester also. I'm not clear what you guys are talking about as far as a orifice though. where does that come into play

 

Thanks for the advise. To answer your questions:
Upon initial complaint I was told to put something in writing, which I promptly did send a letter. I only received email response which didn't address all of the points in the letter. After emailing back and forth they finally decided to make it a warranty claim. Which brings me to your second question about warranty terms. The warranty terms require installation of a new turbo and new or re-certified injectors. Since I didn't know about these terms until I got to the shop where I had scheduled time to install the longblock, I didn't have the time (or the money) to order these parts in. So warranty terms were not met. At this point I sent another letter(not certified though) with more specific claims and demands. When response was not received to this letter after the specified number of days, I initiated credit card charge back dispute, which I lost.

 

Get a note book.....write down everything in it with dates, times, who you talked to etc...Documentation is your friend.

 

Creator,

I just sent you a PDF of the test we talked about.

Sean

 

and that says it all.....

seems the OP was getting interaction with them...... for a while....
and then that stopped.... yes?

i'm an evil and corrosive cynic.... my first thought was that the
interaction stopped once he was past the cutoff point for
initiating a charge back on the card.

there has been enough stuff about blackwater on this forum alone
to permanently queer their reputation in my eyes. a lot of businesses
wouldn't be able to stay afloat without the ability to use the net
to cast far and wide for customers. if they had to rely on local customers,
once the word got out, they'd be without customers.

when i was looking for an engine builder, and was on the phone
with BPD, i asked them for the name of a GOOD engine builder
local to me, that was NOT a certain shop 2 miles from my house.

who is a BPD reseller and installer.

there was a pause.... and then the guy from BPD said.... "um, we have
heard other reports like that...." we chatted a bit, and i suggested that
while he was a reseller for BPD, recommending him to do any work
wouldn't be something i'd do.

and he gave me a guy 40 miles away, in chino hils... domestic diesel...
excellent shop....

looks like blackwater is one of those shops to tow your truck past on
the way to a real shop, and getting any money out of them for your
loss is i suspect gonna be damn near impossible. just my hunch.

 

Performance blocks on 40 hwy in blue springs mo did an excellent job. They are about 5 miles from my house. It was a gamble on the first engine,,, but now I wouldn't think twice about trusting their work. They just shortblocked n bored n polished my setup. Well, lets get this shop n fix yours right!!!!

 

Very tempting Anthony!

I went ahead and ordered a Magnehelic gauge, and it looks like Sean is going to measure the orifice in the fill neck adapter. Once we get all of the info and DIY test procedures figured out, I'll put a post up on it for people to refer to in the future.

Maybe you could send me some pics of the hole and the inside of the adapter tube when you measure it Sean?

 

I can do that. It's large looking. Well if you call 1/4"ish large. But
I get a real measurement for you in the morning.

Sean

P.S. I forgot to prep the cat food 15 Lb of beef cut into cubes and weighed out to 4oz and frozen.
That is BIG Kitties dinner.