Replacing floor boards 49 F1
#1
Replacing floor boards 49 F1
I am replacing the front cab mounts that attach to the door post and go under the toe plates to the front mounts, both toe plates and the 1 pcs floor pan from the ridge to the toe boards, Has anyone done this? If so do you have any pictures as you were doing it. I am not sure what pcs to put in 1st and why
#2
#3
cab mounts
I replaced the front lower mounts on my 51 last fall.
I built a support frame from the hood hinge mounts to the dolly my cab is sitting on (cab is off the frame) to raise the cab mounts off the dolly (let them hang free) and cut wedges out of the toe boards to gain access.
I then drilled out all of the spot welds to get the mounts free. I had to replace the metal under the mounts below the door frame as the floor was rusted through. I plug welded the mounts back into place then cross braced the inside of the cab before cutting out the front half of the floor board and toe boards.
I replaced the toe and floor boards and a transmission tunnel with pre made sheet metal from No Limit Engineering, eliminating the transmission removable cover. I glued the floor sheet metal in with 3M pannel adhesive. A suggestion I got from one of the membershere on FTE.
So far it seems very strong and sealed tight. The only thing I would have done different would be to cross brace the cab before removing the front mounts. PM me your e-mail address and I will send photos. As soon as I create a photo bucket account and figure out how to post photos, I will share the whole proccess with you all. It was a lot of work but I am very proud that I did it for the first time and it looks good.
Take care
Dan
I built a support frame from the hood hinge mounts to the dolly my cab is sitting on (cab is off the frame) to raise the cab mounts off the dolly (let them hang free) and cut wedges out of the toe boards to gain access.
I then drilled out all of the spot welds to get the mounts free. I had to replace the metal under the mounts below the door frame as the floor was rusted through. I plug welded the mounts back into place then cross braced the inside of the cab before cutting out the front half of the floor board and toe boards.
I replaced the toe and floor boards and a transmission tunnel with pre made sheet metal from No Limit Engineering, eliminating the transmission removable cover. I glued the floor sheet metal in with 3M pannel adhesive. A suggestion I got from one of the membershere on FTE.
So far it seems very strong and sealed tight. The only thing I would have done different would be to cross brace the cab before removing the front mounts. PM me your e-mail address and I will send photos. As soon as I create a photo bucket account and figure out how to post photos, I will share the whole proccess with you all. It was a lot of work but I am very proud that I did it for the first time and it looks good.
Take care
Dan
#4
I replaced my front mounts over 5 years ago on my 49 and unfortunately did not take photos. I was impressed with the corners made by Northern (?). At the time I was also replacing the floor. It would be a real challenge I think if you are not also replacing the floors. In my case I tack welded in cross braces at both doors. The cross braces are a bit of a pain to work around but when I finished, the cab had held its shape and the door fit as they had and should.
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#5
Willard is likely referring to: Northern Classic Trucks - Reproduction parts for your antique Ford truck .
DW
DW
#6
I just finished installing front mounts, and front floors (2-piece) on my 48.
There are a lot of spot welds to release the mounts, actually had to cut an access in the lower cowl to drill a few out.
The first thing as mentioned above was to support/brace the cab, once the floor is removed.
I will try to get pics up tonight.
There are a lot of spot welds to release the mounts, actually had to cut an access in the lower cowl to drill a few out.
The first thing as mentioned above was to support/brace the cab, once the floor is removed.
I will try to get pics up tonight.
#7
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#8
I haven't done floor replacement, but have done some major cab surgery. To echo what everyone else has said, weld in cross braces to keep things square (might not hurt to di some measurements first too to make sure your square) if not would be a good time to get things lined up. And if you think you gave enough braces, add 2 more
#10
Hey Tom,
Welcome - It might be more effective if you would post a pic or two of what you are trying to tackle. Then maybe we can nail down some advice that would be more geared to what you are up against.
We've got a 1950 - our cab floor, door sills, & rear cab corners were shot as well as a lot of the under cab support structure. We had a lot of help
with the welding. Personally I'd start at fixing the cab support & work up from there & do the cab corners next.
The guys working on our truck didn't use enough bracing & the door openings sagged - that floor is pretty structural to the whole thing.
We got the fun of using hydraulic rams to get the door openings right.
(Please brace it up).
I've attached some pics - might have more useful ones once we see what you are up against. Good luck over there.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD)
Welcome - It might be more effective if you would post a pic or two of what you are trying to tackle. Then maybe we can nail down some advice that would be more geared to what you are up against.
We've got a 1950 - our cab floor, door sills, & rear cab corners were shot as well as a lot of the under cab support structure. We had a lot of help
with the welding. Personally I'd start at fixing the cab support & work up from there & do the cab corners next.
The guys working on our truck didn't use enough bracing & the door openings sagged - that floor is pretty structural to the whole thing.
We got the fun of using hydraulic rams to get the door openings right.
(Please brace it up).
I've attached some pics - might have more useful ones once we see what you are up against. Good luck over there.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD)
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