Well the mailman was here today with my coolant filter and I opened it like a kid at Christmas. All the parts are here (being box box is alittle beat up)) but no parts invoice, no instructions, no nothing but parts. Now I'm sure I can figure it out, but it would be nice to know the way it is suppose to go. I'll give them a call tomorrow and see if they have a set on line or something,but for the money I spent I expected a little more, especially after I told him I was going to do a write up on a PSD rebuild.........Bill

 

I don't care for most of IPR products, but there coolant filter is one of the best on the market.

Here are instructions.

http://www.iprresearch.com/skin/comm...filter-ins.pdf

 

Thanks for the help, I looked at all the coolant filter kits out there and I thought that the IPR one was the best for the truck because of the size of the hoses it used. It still is a by pass set up but I like the fact you can clean it. Thanks again Bill

 

Boy thats Just like Mine I installed 2 years ago

I wanted all Bigger Lines Nothing on the market Like that then so I did my own

They even tied the return in where I did!!

ALL the Kits at that time only filtered 5/32 Hole worth

My Dog has a Harder stream than that when he lifts his Leg LOL

 

are you going to use the manifold to? I was thinking of doing this too.

 

In anwser to your question no I'm not going to use the manifold connection and I'll tell you why. The connection at the manifold comes right after the oil cooler, and if the filter clogs up there is NO bypass for the filter so you have the same problem as a clogged oil cooler, second the oil cooler works as a pre filter and your not going to get the filtering you should. You will get a more effective filter doing it at the heater hoses...........Bill

 

I was thinking that it would not be hard to add a flow sensor to that
so you could use the off engine filter and the relocation manifold.
It's too bad that there is not a way to get at the return side of the cooler
to tap in a temp sensor.

Sean

 

I'm trying to re engineer it right now with a popit valve from a marine app but I don't think it's going to be strong enough to hold the pressure

 

Well I tried to make a father/son project out of the ccoolant filter install today, I mean how hard could it be? A couple of hours with my 11 yr old at the helm and dad overlooking the wrenching and it was going towards his automotive merit badge for boy scouts at the same time. Well........ it still isn't installed. I am highly disapointed with tbe quality of the clamps (cheap crap and the wrong size ) the hose is made in Taiwan, so that's not getting used and the self tapping screws that would eventually work there way out. So off to Lowes for some fasteners and look for hose clamps. 2 hours later and all we have are the fasteners and no hose clamps or hose. I am defiantly making a phone call in the A.M. to Cali and making a stink. For the money spent, I should have went down the road to the local diesel shop and got one or built my own cause that is basically what I am doing

 

This is Very Very Typical of IPR Products!!!

They have some Good Ideas But Fabricate it out of the Cheapest Junk Around

For the Price they charge they should use all quality Parts


In Fact it used to say on there website something like if you FLAME Them on an Internet website your warrenty is VOID

Im NOT KIDDEN Either^^NO BS here IDK if thats still in the conditions of warrenty or not


On a Good Note I didnt know they had a Mechanic Merit Badge Must be Newer But I think thats Prettty Cool

 

I used the DFuser kit and everything was perfect and all high quality stuff. I've got IPR's Gen 2 EGR delete and up-pipe kit and it was amazing, but that kit looks like ****.

 

Benny, It takes a lot for me to get worked up but this takes the cake ! I've dealt with some of biggest people in the automotive industry and I can't believe this crap. He might get alittle flamed if I make up my own kit and market it as Performance Marine and Automotive (my old company and I still have the marketing rights to it) my buddy Kenny say he can punch out 100 in 4 hours on the CNC machine. I'M VERY CLOSE TO MAKING THE INVESTMENT TO **** HIM OFF ! OK my rant is over, I'll be good and try to make this project up to my son........ maybe I'll let him charge the A/C up tomorrow ............Bill

 

The ipr guy was on here a while back defending his products. It sounds like you are having the same style issues the YouTube video guy was having. And those videos were shot a long time ago. So it's safe to say ipr outta be selling ideas, and ideas only. These days companies are constantly trying to make mad cash just because they have, or have access to a cnc. I would rather spend my $$$ on a kit that is "complete". Otherwise, build it myself. Sux that the quality isn't to par with the standards. Or your standards at least. I would opt for an install on the bottom of the truck,, more like the aux tranny filter. To heck with making that mess everytime a cleaning needs to be done.

 

I will agree that the last time the IPR rep was on here he pretty much got chased off. I have their Gen 2 EGR delete kit with the up-pipe and the quality is amazing. They are the only company that offers a delete like that that does not use the little blue silicone hoses, so that's why I went with them. Other than that I am not a fan of the company.

Many of their other products don't make sense to me such as their high flow oil cooler. Sure, it might not plug as easily as the factory one but it also ramps up the engine oil temperature which is the idea behind the oil cooler in the first place. Also, their remote mount oil cooler kit in theory is a good idea, but the couple people that had installed them didn't exactly leave positive reviews about the kit. I don't like the idea of it not being a bypass coolant filter setup and all you're doing is making it easier to change the oil cooler should it plug up, which isn't a hard job anyways. For the money the kit costs it doesn't make sense.

 

I installed the coolant filter with the manifold. The back torx screw is very hard to tighten after the tubes on the manifold are in the way. I had to use a 1/4 inch open wrench and tighten the bit a little bit at a time until I could fit a swivel extension on a short torx bit and tighten it down. It was not the relatively simple job that I was expecting. That took me hours and a neighbor's short torx bit before that was done. I was wishing I had not gone with the manifold since access would have been much easier.

The biggest frustration was the hose clamps. The are not big enough. By the time you loosen them enough to fit over the nipple on the tubes they would come apart and I could not get them back together over the hoses. That is too much money to spend and have them skimp on a simple part like that. Neighbor again bailed me out and we ran down to the parts store and got some real hose clamps. Save yourself the headache and get bigger, sturdier hose clamps before you start!

Larry