I figured that my oil leak was coming from my oil pan gasket as it was quite squished out on the drivers side. I drove my truck about 500 kilometers after my last oil change (right after I bought the truck) and lost over 2 liters of oil. I purchased the Ford Racing 1-pc rubber gasket from work and this past weekend I jacked the truck up and set about replacing the gasket.

I was able to replace the gasket with the engine in the truck without removing anything but the oil pan bolts, the crossmember, exhaust and motor mounts never got touched. It was tight but not as bad of job as I thought it would be, it took me about 3.5 hours to do start to finish. The one thing that made it easy was the fact that it already had a 1-pc rubber gasket, or at least it started as a 1-pc gasket

Here are some pictures of the old gasket , wonder why it was leaking lol. And none of this damage was from the removal, I was very carefull when I took it out.







Used the truck a bunch this weekend after the repair and so far no leaks and no more oil dripping onto the exhaust.

Just want to thank everyone who contributes to this site, if it wasn't for all the informative posts on this topic I doubt I would have tackled it by myself.

 

Nice work! That pan gasket is trashed!

 

I know, I'm surprised there was any oil left in the pan. I honestly don't know how it got so trashed, would just over tightening the bolts cause this sort of damage?

 

Yep, sure will... It almost looks like that one was over tightened several times,,

 

That would explain it, the bolts were all well beyond being "snug". There probably would have been even more damage if the oil pan didn't have those "spreader bars" (if thats what they are called).

 

The oil pan gasket on my 94 5.8 is "sweating" oil. You just removed the pan bolts and had enough room to change it?

 

I just did this job at work along with the rear main on a 94 5.0 Bronco. Booked out at 13 hrs, knocked it out in around 6. Remove both driveshafts, support the trans and transfer case. Disconnect electrical connectors, shift linkages, cooler lines, etc. Remove starter, unbolt torque convertor. Remove crossmember, remove bellhousing bolts. Pry the trans off the engine, and roll the truck forward (I had it on a drive-on lift) until there's about 12" of clearance between engine and trans. Remove flex plate, pry out seal with flat blade screwdriver. Tap new seal in until it's flush with the back of the block.

Oil pan was tougher. Drained the pan, removed all the bolts, dropped pan onto cross member. Removed old gasket and made sure none was stuck to the block or pan. Slid new gasket in from the front of the engine *tough part* make sure to slide the end of the gasket (for the rear of the pan) under the oil pump. Went to the back, stuck my arm between the pan and crank, and slid the gasket through, under the oil pickup and dipstick. Reinstalled pan, filled with oil. Re-install flex plate, use blue loctite and torque bolts to 85 lb ft. Reinstall trans and transfer case, reinstall driveshafts.

I did have some help removing the trans and reinstalling it, getting it aligned and pushed back on the dowels is by no means a 1 man job. Make absolutely sure the studs on the torque convertor go into the holes on the flex plate before you tighten the bellhousing bolts.

 

I did the same on my truck, removed the bolts and left the pan on the cross member - I did change the timing chain and gears so th water pump and radiator were out - a lot easier. My gasket looked a lot worst than yours. Mine looked like someone cut it lenghtwise razor. Kind of odd.

 

My gasket looks exactly like that. I can reach up and grab the gasket with ease all with everything still bolted on. But no oil is leaking. Frankly, I can't believe it.

I figure I won't fix what ain't broken. But good to know I can do the change by just dropping the pan.