Carb issues
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 403
Likes: 8
From: Pensacola, FL
Carb issues
I am having a problem with my truck. First, here are the specs:
1975 F-100 4x4, 360, 77K miles, AT. The motor is all stock. I rebuilt the motorcraft 2100, replaced the fuel tank, sender, fuel pump, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. The truck will start, run and stop. Once it gets warm, say maybe 8-10 miles or I get up to 55ish and try to get up over 3/4 throttle, it sputters like it is either flooded or starving, I can't figure it out. It will die and leave me on the side of the road until it sits for a few minutes then I can go again, slowly. Looking forward to all the responses.
1975 F-100 4x4, 360, 77K miles, AT. The motor is all stock. I rebuilt the motorcraft 2100, replaced the fuel tank, sender, fuel pump, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. The truck will start, run and stop. Once it gets warm, say maybe 8-10 miles or I get up to 55ish and try to get up over 3/4 throttle, it sputters like it is either flooded or starving, I can't figure it out. It will die and leave me on the side of the road until it sits for a few minutes then I can go again, slowly. Looking forward to all the responses.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 277
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Just a shot in the dark, how about coil/ignition module? I had that problem a few years back and it was my coil. Would run until warmed up than die. After it would sit a while it would start back up. Maybe fuel filter as well.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 403
Likes: 8
From: Pensacola, FL
Thanks guys for the inputs. I do have fuel and it is getting to the carb with good pressure. I went and bought a coil, points and a condenser today and was in the middle of getting it installed when I ran out of daylight. So, the next question is my truck was made in 9/74 and I have been told before that 75 was a cross over year and as you can see, I had to buy points. Hopefully my ole pops didn't replace the motor years ago with an older one. There is too much gunk on the motor to check the numbers right now. Hopefully the coil will fix the glitch tomorrow.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
If it has points, then I would guess it was the condensor that was failing. Been there, done that. Left me stranded with boat in tow one Saturday many years ago. I left the condensor unhooked to allow it to run enough to get me home again.
It would build some heat, short out and kill motor. Cool off and start. Repeat.
It would build some heat, short out and kill motor. Cool off and start. Repeat.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 403
Likes: 8
From: Pensacola, FL
Well, after doing some research and the writing on the new coil about a resistor needing to be added, I do not know what or where to hook one up. I had a capacitor soldiered on to the coil bracket but the other end was gone and do not know where it was suppose to hook up at. Also, when I had to take the round plate out of the distributor to replace the points and condensor, there was a couple round things under the plate and I dont know what the are for. This is actually the first time I had a distributor apart this far and I don't want to screw it up. Pictures are added:
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
Yup, looks like the contact points?
The capacitor is odd. I think it was replacing the condensor?
The Duraspark looks like it's plugged in? Don't know why since it had points, but maybe that is what they are using to fire it?
If the truck had points originally, then it likely has the inline resistor for the points. Put a voltmeter on it to see.
The capacitor is odd. I think it was replacing the condensor?
The Duraspark looks like it's plugged in? Don't know why since it had points, but maybe that is what they are using to fire it?
If the truck had points originally, then it likely has the inline resistor for the points. Put a voltmeter on it to see.
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