wiring nightmare
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wiring nightmare
Well when I bought I knew it had some electrical issues, but they just keep popping up. Both of these pictures are of wires(strays) that I found while removing my battery tray.
And this is one of the ground cables going to the engine. Are both of the cables supposed to go right to the block, when I moved my batteries I moved one to go directly to the frame and one directly to the block, I though I was experiencing some bad ground situations.
That is what was left of one ground on the block. My problems have been, but are not limited to: fuel gauge worked, kinda, then stopped, seemed to be a connection, and I just got the wiring diagram for the fuel system, lights being dim, expecially parking lights being weird, sometimes the bright indicator will randomly go off and on, and just a mess in general, and help to what those wires might go to would be very helpful! Austin.
And this is one of the ground cables going to the engine. Are both of the cables supposed to go right to the block, when I moved my batteries I moved one to go directly to the frame and one directly to the block, I though I was experiencing some bad ground situations.
That is what was left of one ground on the block. My problems have been, but are not limited to: fuel gauge worked, kinda, then stopped, seemed to be a connection, and I just got the wiring diagram for the fuel system, lights being dim, expecially parking lights being weird, sometimes the bright indicator will randomly go off and on, and just a mess in general, and help to what those wires might go to would be very helpful! Austin.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
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Those non-factory wires might have gone to aftermarket alarm, horn, fog lights or just straight hot leads to stereo equipment.
It does sound like you have some ground issues. I've never checked to see where the factory ground cables hook up, I'll have to look in a bit.
Can't hurt to put a block to frame and fame to body ground(s) on it, then you'll have all your bases covered.
It does sound like you have some ground issues. I've never checked to see where the factory ground cables hook up, I'll have to look in a bit.
Can't hurt to put a block to frame and fame to body ground(s) on it, then you'll have all your bases covered.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: 8600 ft in Colo
Yes, both the battery negative cables should go to the block. There should be a ground strap from the engine to the cab (on the passenger side firewall on my '94), and a ground from the engine to the frame.
You can't have too many grounds...
You can't have too many grounds...
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The blue wire and red wires I know what they do, I am more concerned about the wires you see that just end. I moved one cable to the frame, and one is on the block, just to better ground the frame.
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From: Sweet home Alabama
The batterys work together and HAVE to both be on the block,then one 6 gauge from the block to the frame,And one 10 gauge to the body to the negitive battery on both batterys and another to the cab...A diesel sucks a lot of volts on start up, And if you have an auto tranny the computer and tranny need good grounds the computer alone has 3 grounds.
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The batterys work together and HAVE to both be on the block,then one 6 gauge from the block to the frame,And one 10 gauge to the body to the negitive battery on both batterys and another to the cab...A diesel sucks a lot of volts on start up, And if you have an auto tranny the computer and tranny need good grounds the computer alone has 3 grounds.
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So here is more parts to the puzzle, this cluster escaped the restoration...
That group is right by my fsv, my gauge does not work, and I have never had a front tank until now so I really don't know if the selector works because I'm scared to switch it in fear it wont switch back. The yellow wire with blue trace is what we hooked up to the sender, with the other wire grounded to the frame. This worked for a while and no longer does, but I thought the sender possibly went bad. Help please! I cannot find a diagram or anything to help.
That group is right by my fsv, my gauge does not work, and I have never had a front tank until now so I really don't know if the selector works because I'm scared to switch it in fear it wont switch back. The yellow wire with blue trace is what we hooked up to the sender, with the other wire grounded to the frame. This worked for a while and no longer does, but I thought the sender possibly went bad. Help please! I cannot find a diagram or anything to help.
Logistics Pro
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Is that large shield it goes into your battery cable? On mine that's all that's there. If that wire is just tapped into the battery cable then someone was using it for a hot to something. Eliminate it.
That one's interesting, I cannot find anything like it on my truck. It looks like two wires going to a plug, two wires from the plug to another plug, then one wire out of the plug. The only thing similar on mine is a two wire into one plug then coming out one and grounding at the voltage regulator. But there's only one plug and all the wires are black, yours look green.
You say those wires are right by your FSV, but are they the wires to it? Meaning there is nothing hooked up to the valve? Or are these extra wires that happen to be next to a hooked up FSV?
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Is that large shield it goes into your battery cable? On mine that's all that's there. If that wire is just tapped into the battery cable then someone was using it for a hot to something. Eliminate it.
That one's interesting, I cannot find anything like it on my truck. It looks like two wires going to a plug, two wires from the plug to another plug, then one wire out of the plug. The only thing similar on mine is a two wire into one plug then coming out one and grounding at the voltage regulator. But there's only one plug and all the wires are black, yours look green.
You say those wires are right by your FSV, but are they the wires to it? Meaning there is nothing hooked up to the valve? Or are these extra wires that happen to be next to a hooked up FSV?
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