1990 F250 XLT Lariat w/460 - won't go into 4 Low
#1
1990 F250 XLT Lariat w/460 - won't go into 4 Low
Hey everyone,
So when I bought this truck back in December ('16) I tested the lockers and was able to easily put it into 4H .. we had a lot of snow this year so at the time I could test drive the truck in 4x4. What I didn't check however was 4L.. I know my bad..
When I did start doing a more thorough inspection after purchase I realized I could not get the shifter to move past the 4H position. It feels completely seized. I got under the truck and stared at things.. mainly because I'm not familiar with this trucks transfer case or transmission..
I've tried spraying the linkage with lubricant. I know I'm performing the correct 'steps' to engage 4L but still I can't move the shifter.
Anyone have experience with this sort of issue? Or perhaps could shed some light on what could possibly be going on?
4H works perfectly.. so I don't believe there's any serious issues with the transfer case internally.. but again, I just don't know. I'd like to start with the 'simplest' / 'cheapest' options to resolve the problem first (obviously)..
Hoping someone can help me out!
Cheers
Tyler
So when I bought this truck back in December ('16) I tested the lockers and was able to easily put it into 4H .. we had a lot of snow this year so at the time I could test drive the truck in 4x4. What I didn't check however was 4L.. I know my bad..
When I did start doing a more thorough inspection after purchase I realized I could not get the shifter to move past the 4H position. It feels completely seized. I got under the truck and stared at things.. mainly because I'm not familiar with this trucks transfer case or transmission..
I've tried spraying the linkage with lubricant. I know I'm performing the correct 'steps' to engage 4L but still I can't move the shifter.
Anyone have experience with this sort of issue? Or perhaps could shed some light on what could possibly be going on?
4H works perfectly.. so I don't believe there's any serious issues with the transfer case internally.. but again, I just don't know. I'd like to start with the 'simplest' / 'cheapest' options to resolve the problem first (obviously)..
Hoping someone can help me out!
Cheers
Tyler
#2
Do you see how Neutral on the stick is off to the side?
While you were under there did you see the little rubber block in the linkage?
You shouldn't be able to get from 4h to 4l by pulling straight back on the stick.
Do not try to shift between 4h and 4l while the vehicle is in motion.
But maybe I am misunderstanding what you're saying.
While you were under there did you see the little rubber block in the linkage?
You shouldn't be able to get from 4h to 4l by pulling straight back on the stick.
Do not try to shift between 4h and 4l while the vehicle is in motion.
But maybe I am misunderstanding what you're saying.
#3
#4
#5
The biggest thing is having the transmission in neutral, it will not go into 4LO if the truck is in Park, Reverse or Drive. It has to be in Neutral.
Also since most people don't use 4LO very often it can get froze up sometimes, which is why it's good to use the 4x4 at least once a year. Even if you don't need it.
Also since most people don't use 4LO very often it can get froze up sometimes, which is why it's good to use the 4x4 at least once a year. Even if you don't need it.
#6
Join Date: Jun 2006
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The shifter should simply pivot towards the driver slightly to move through a gate into 4-low, but whatever you do don't force it or you will break the pot metal linkage like most have done with these trucks. The pivot on the linkage is a common problem, there is a plastic bushing in it but somehow these always seize up so what you have to do is remove the whole linkage/shifter assembly from the truck, put it in a vise and remove the pivot bolt, clean and lube everything with a dry lube that won't attract excessive dirt like anti seize grease for example and put it all back.
#7
To get into low range you need to be stopped.
My truck has a gearbox so I only need to depress the clutch.
There should be a sticker on top of the drivers sun visor explaining this.
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#8
#9
Thanks for the replies
Bottom line is no matter what i do the shifter won't move past 4H into 4L. I don't want to force it so guess i'm in for some possible pain removing the shifter etc.. sigh.. really didn't want to have to face this and it's not like I do any crawling but it would be nice to have the option of 4L..
I've read there is some plastic bushing or washer that could pose a problem.. I've also seen a video out there where the guy suggests these parts aren't made by Ford anymore.. anyone know the item I'm referring to?
Bottom line is no matter what i do the shifter won't move past 4H into 4L. I don't want to force it so guess i'm in for some possible pain removing the shifter etc.. sigh.. really didn't want to have to face this and it's not like I do any crawling but it would be nice to have the option of 4L..
I've read there is some plastic bushing or washer that could pose a problem.. I've also seen a video out there where the guy suggests these parts aren't made by Ford anymore.. anyone know the item I'm referring to?
#10
#11
Thanks everyone. I'll give your suggestions a go here.. something else is going on with the front end now after I started working through this issue.. after engaging into 4H and then trying to move the shifter, I gave up for the day..
Yesterday I took the truck out and after making a 90degree turn around a corner the truck started making a whirring sound and pulling to the right. I believe I may have a bearing issue.. again |I'm not familiar with this truck's transmission and manual lockers in general so this is just another issue I've got to tackle.
Can anyone point me to a post here that speaks to replacement of the front inner and outer wheel bearings? Parts were cheap but this will be the first time I've tackled it..
Thanks!
|PS.. i've posted something else up here regarding the crank seal on a '92 302.. in brief I've pulled the pulley off and bolt.. removed the large metal washer and there appears to be some rubber exposed.. possibly front a blown crank seal but I've not been inside one of these before.. hoping someone can provide some insight into what i'm seeing.. i'll post pictures etc.. thanks!
Yesterday I took the truck out and after making a 90degree turn around a corner the truck started making a whirring sound and pulling to the right. I believe I may have a bearing issue.. again |I'm not familiar with this truck's transmission and manual lockers in general so this is just another issue I've got to tackle.
Can anyone point me to a post here that speaks to replacement of the front inner and outer wheel bearings? Parts were cheap but this will be the first time I've tackled it..
Thanks!
|PS.. i've posted something else up here regarding the crank seal on a '92 302.. in brief I've pulled the pulley off and bolt.. removed the large metal washer and there appears to be some rubber exposed.. possibly front a blown crank seal but I've not been inside one of these before.. hoping someone can provide some insight into what i'm seeing.. i'll post pictures etc.. thanks!
#12
So you took off. Was the truck still in 4wd on DRY pavement?
It could be a bearing, I guess. Jack up the front end, verify the hubs are unlocked, give them a spin on each side, and see if you here the noise, and if so where it's coming from. When the hub is unlocked, the wheel should spin, and the axle shaft should not. If you don't hear it that way, see if you still hear it when driving. I'd also give the front driveshaft a spin to, just to make sure the t-case is truly in 2wd, while you have the front end up in the air. If the t case is in 2 by, the shaft should spin, and might spin one or both axle shafts. It may be a bearing, but you should probably pin point which one it is first, so as not to replace un-necassary parts. 1990 F250 should be TTB in the front. It's also 27 years old, at that age, they are going to take some TLC to keep on the road.
It could be a bearing, I guess. Jack up the front end, verify the hubs are unlocked, give them a spin on each side, and see if you here the noise, and if so where it's coming from. When the hub is unlocked, the wheel should spin, and the axle shaft should not. If you don't hear it that way, see if you still hear it when driving. I'd also give the front driveshaft a spin to, just to make sure the t-case is truly in 2wd, while you have the front end up in the air. If the t case is in 2 by, the shaft should spin, and might spin one or both axle shafts. It may be a bearing, but you should probably pin point which one it is first, so as not to replace un-necassary parts. 1990 F250 should be TTB in the front. It's also 27 years old, at that age, they are going to take some TLC to keep on the road.
#13
This may sound stupid but have you tried pulling it back as far as it can go then push the whole shifter straight down towards the floor then pull back?
For my 3 trucks, I have to put the tranny into neutral, pull back to 4x4 high, then push the whole thing to the floor, then pull back. It kinda looks like a Z looking sideways at it.
For my 3 trucks, I have to put the tranny into neutral, pull back to 4x4 high, then push the whole thing to the floor, then pull back. It kinda looks like a Z looking sideways at it.
#14
This may sound stupid but have you tried pulling it back as far as it can go then push the whole shifter straight down towards the floor then pull back?
For my 3 trucks, I have to put the tranny into neutral, pull back to 4x4 high, then push the whole thing to the floor, then pull back. It kinda looks like a Z looking sideways at it.
For my 3 trucks, I have to put the tranny into neutral, pull back to 4x4 high, then push the whole thing to the floor, then pull back. It kinda looks like a Z looking sideways at it.
#15
Hey everyone
I've been on other projects for a few weeks.. only now have I had the time to pull the boot off the shifter to see what's going on.. posting pictures below.
It almost seems as if the shifter is rusted in the down position. I've seen a video on another f250 shifter but what I saw in that video isn't the same as what I see in mine.
I've been soaking the bolts in pb for hours now.. the bolt in the photo is barely cracking.
I still can't get it the shifter to move down and into 4L no matter what I do. This is the first time I've looked at this in weeks.. any thoughts on what you see in these pictures... other than it's rusty and worse for wear.. :/
the seriously stuck bolt.. for this borg warner shifter.. should it be pivoted upwards until you press down to shift into 4Low? because it looks like it's seized in the down position..
Other side of shifter
I've been on other projects for a few weeks.. only now have I had the time to pull the boot off the shifter to see what's going on.. posting pictures below.
It almost seems as if the shifter is rusted in the down position. I've seen a video on another f250 shifter but what I saw in that video isn't the same as what I see in mine.
I've been soaking the bolts in pb for hours now.. the bolt in the photo is barely cracking.
I still can't get it the shifter to move down and into 4L no matter what I do. This is the first time I've looked at this in weeks.. any thoughts on what you see in these pictures... other than it's rusty and worse for wear.. :/
the seriously stuck bolt.. for this borg warner shifter.. should it be pivoted upwards until you press down to shift into 4Low? because it looks like it's seized in the down position..
Other side of shifter