I was hoping that it is just a gasket too... Yes we had a great weekend off the backside of the island on a little island where my dad has a Very Rustic cabin. Spent the weekend hanging out with a bunch of other guys. One got a spike after we dropped two of them off at an "off-road-system" hunting area. The were within 150 yards of a momma bear and cub while cutting up the spike... The launch is only 15 miles from town, but it is across a gravel mountain pass. It takes an hour to drive from town and is a rough drive. Then a 10 minute boat ride to the other island at the cabin. For the cabin we are 15 minutes to remote Alaska hunting, and plenty of Halibut and cod fishing, and salmon when in season.

It's a great place to live but hard on vehicles... Rust, snow, ice, etc. My F350 is awaiting driveline and axle ujoints, carrier bearing and plow lights, and I just replaced the battery... But between the Ex and the F350, they do the job living in Alaska!
Garry

 

Well I contacted Banks, and I ordered a new stainless header set. My intention is to replace the carbon steel banks headers with the stainless banks headers. But I will try to save to old ones for my other Excursion in WA state. I hope to be able to save the original banks drivers header, but if not, Banks told me I can buy just one replacement header. But since I need to get the Ex back in top notch shape, I need to replace the headers. I have been able to continue driving it by stuffing steel wool between the primary tubes, but it is still loud and obnoxious... Can't wait to get it fixed, but I do not look forward to the actual replacement, but I will review this again before I do!

Thanks guys for all the pics and info, as I know mine will be a little different, but hopefully it will be easier since all the bolts were replaced previously.

Thanks!
Garry in Kodiak, AK

 

Good luck Gary and keep us posted!

 

Are the banks headers really worth the extra money over the thorleys?

 

Well, The headers came in before Christmas, but we had a wedding (niece) Christmas, Home Remodel and many other things like son leaving for USMC Boot Camp in February that have delayed me starting the repair...

I thought that I could have our one of only a few shops in town do the swap, since I already had an entire new kit.... They said they could, but when I dropped it off at the shop, and then came to get it, they had removed the flange bolts to the y-pipe, and had soaked the manifold bolts several days. They told me that they put only as much torque on them that they felt that they would not break the studs/bolts. They were afraid to break any studs/bolts because in their opinion, they would have to "pull the engine to fix any broken studs"...

I wanted to tell them all that If Sammie can do it, for crying out loud a full service shop should be able....

Fortunately they did not charge me a dime, and they put new bolts back in the collector flanges. So... I am getting ready to order some cobalt left hand drill bits a 8mm stud extractor and a tap. Is there anything else that I should have on hand, before I tackle this project? I have a 220V Lincoln Wire feed Welder, air tools etc. I am not looking forward to this, but I need to fix it, and since I live on an island in Alaska, I can not run down to Home Depot nor Harbor Freight nor Sears... So I use Amazon Prime and other free shipping options.

Thanks in advance!
Garry

 

Tom, have you gotten around to taking some quick sound clips of this yet?

I'm currently budgeting to do this, but I'm waiting for that last little push to make me do it. :-P

 

Man I hate seeing this, but at least they were honest about it and didn't charge you anything. I wish I had something to add to help you but I don't so good luck and someone will be along shortly to help out

 

Also this

•  
  • Banks TorqueTube Exhaust Headers
    
    
  • <label class="mainCartItemLabel">Vehicle</label>2004 Ford F-250
  • <label class="mainCartItemLabel">Submodel</label>6.8L V10, without EGR valve
  • <label class="mainCartItemLabel">AutoAnything SKU</label>3374030
  • <label class="mainCartItemLabel">Part Number</label>49138
  • Discount promotions do not apply

No 20% off, no nothing

 

When I opened that link it said "20% 0ff all orders over $199" (until 3/25) in 2 different places at the top of the page.

 

I don't know of anyone that has had both to give a first hand accurate answer to this question.
I do know that the very good Thorleys are not stainless and WILL require periodic cleaning and repainting to keep them in top shape and reduce the chances of exterior corrosion related issues. The Banks are stainless, (I think it is the 401 grade) it is a grade of stainless that does get a little bit of surface oxidation so they don't stay shiny looking but they do not require any upkeep to remain sound.
Access to all parts of the headers is difficult due to the tight hard to reach spaces, so I would imagine the period cleaning and painting would be a bit of a pain and time consuming. I don't have much free time for vehicle projects so for me the stainless Banks won out with idea of less required upkeep.

 

Crazy shop stories always amaze me, I feel so lucky to have a great local family owned shop to catch my overflow work and state inspections.
Gary, it sounds like once you are armed with the new bits, tap and stud grabber you should be well set to handle this job. Hopefully this and the other Banks threads here will get you over any rough spots.
Good luck!

 

Patience Grasshopper..........I'm still working 12 hour night shifts 7 days a week till Monday the 23rd (since 2/18), then I need to get the TT dewinterized and Ex PM'ed as well as work 2 more 12 hour days before we leave for an 1100 mile tow to Charlotte NC for Spring Break week on the 27th. Gonna be a busy week for this old fat guy.
I will be doing a detailed sound clip before/after comparison sometime after Easter when I go forward with the Aeroturbine 3030XL muffler. As it sits now with the Banks headers and stock exhaust it is barely different from stock until the revs climb a little and even then still not much difference.

 

Hand tools, and a welder and a pile of nuts is all you need. I didn't drill any studs but one. And that was so I could get more surface to weld to. Lol

 

You sound like a busy bee! I'm pretty well maxed out in time with classes and work. No idea how many hours all together, but to quote an "old fat guy" "It's really starting to cut into my forum time. I'll have to talk to my boss about that" :-P

You can take a quick video clip on your phone and text it to me if you wanna, I'll post it up for ya :-P

That honestly sounds like exactly what I'm looking for. I'm not one of the types that really want a loud exhaust. I do like to hear em open up a little in the higher RPM range. If the headers and Y pipe aren't enough I can try out a few different mufflers.

 

I would like to go with something that offers just a little bit more rumble (well, as good as a V-10 can "rumble") but I don't want to have ANY drone, those long tow trips would bring the suck if it drones.