Hi, group! ... I joined because after months of passing a 1964 F-100 at a flea market that was closed for the winter, I finally saw human activity at the scene and was able to spend about two minutes talking to the elderly owner before he left with his granddaughter in a 30-year-old Chevy pickup.

The truck was purchased as a project for the granddad and his 16-year-old grandson. A new battery (since removed to deter thieves), a little carb tinkering and some new clutch parts and the two had it running. They drove it around a bit before starting to tackle the body work and cosmetics and that's when the teenager realized how much work was ahead of him and decided to bail. Thus, the truck is for sale.

The man opened the hood but didn't unlock the doors before leaving, so my interior pictures are through the windows. He doesn't have either bumper, nor the tailgate, but he said the trim pieces they started removing for body work are all in a box in the back room of the flea market.

It's a six-cylinder (obviously) and three-on-the-tree. I'd say the bed is shot from rust (at least the floor of it), and I was almost amused to not notice until looking through the back window the big rust hole in the driver's floor corner that lets you see all the way through to the left front tire -- this in an otherwise remarkably clean and rust-free-looking floor pan. The rest of the cab didn't seem too bad, the frame looked good for its age in places and at least average in others, and on the whole I don't think the cab and frame are beyond redemption.

I've put up an album at Photobucket.com. Here's one look.



I've been looking for a "first project" and this might fit the bill. It would be best to start simple, and as someone advised another beginner on another forum, an older pickup truck is "about as simple as a beer can." I also have two uncles who are lifelong Ford enthusiasts and, though they live far away and don't do Internet, should be good resources.

I welcome thoughts and opinions, including on price. The old fella wasted no time in saying he'd been asking $750 but would take $600 for it.

Thanks, folks!

 

Not too bad for $600, I'd buy it if I was looking for a project. And it will be a project.

But first find out if it has a clear title and see how many of the missing parts he has.
Engine appears to be a 223.

 

Thanks for the reply, Scott. I forgot to ask if it was the 223 or the 262. Didn't much seem to matter to me since it wasn't a V8.

 

Welcome to the forum.

I am venturing a guess it is the 4th or 5th person that actually finishes a project. Financial burnout is high.

I strongly suggest three rules in this order before falling in rust with a truck.

1. Check the frame vin (passenger side top of frame between the front wheels and the cab.... somewhere in there, most likely a couple feet forward of the starter, maybe right across from the oil filter. Use a mirror or paper with a pencil for an etching or alum. tape with a stick for an etching. This is deal breaker.

2. Check how much to bring tag and title up to date. I here this can cost as much as $1100 or more in the Communist states.

3. Do an honest inventory!!!!!

Use a classic parts catalog (I like LMC Trucks) and evil bay to determine how much you are going to be out to replace the rusted out items and worn out stuff if you do it yourself. Then calculate 150 hours of labor (yours or paid) for the basic body work. Take that total and double it for a fair guess to a restoration cost.

By the way, the guy said he was asking $750 and will take $600 is a ruse to keep you honest. What it means is he is now asking $600 and will take less. Remember, it has been for sale for over a year and just because you are willing to pay $600, does not mean the next person will pay you what you have in it.
Best of luck.

 

Thanks for the tips, Mr. Prospector. (Horse racing reference there.)

I'll check the frame VIN. And definitely be looking at the cost of various parts, and anticipating many hours of work, beyond what might seem likely before I start.

Kansas is interesting in that (from what the seller said and what the state seems to say at its website) one can purchase either an "antique" plate OR actually run the vehicle on a legible plate originally issued by Kansas from the vehicle's year of manufacture (present in the rear window of this truck) for a $40 annual fee. So if the title is clear, I *think* I can pay normal title transfer fee and taxes (which aren't much on anything that isn't kind of new) and pay the $40 for the vintage plate annually and have that hurdle cleared inexpensively.

 

Oh, and Mr. P, what exactly am I looking for in that frame VIN?

 

I also have two uncles who are lifelong Ford enthusiasts and, though they live far away and don't do Internet, should be good resources.

Welcome to FTE - you will find plenty of "uncles" here willing to share their wisdom and best of all - they do the internet!!

 

4th digit of the VIN is the engine code: B = 262 I-6 / J = 223 I-6.

You think you bought an old truck, but what you really bought is a hobby and hobbies tend to be expensive.

Whatever you estimate the total cost to be, double it then add 25% and this still won't be enough.

And have a plan beforehand, don't tear the truck all apart, then find out you can't afford to fix it.

More projects are sold off for peanuts, or go to Valhalla, because people grossly underestimate what the costs will be.

You could spend 10 grand on this truck and it wouldn't look any better than it does now. And, it's a 1964, so you cannot swap P/S & disc brakes in like you can on 1965/66 F100/250 2WD's.

You want these features, prepare to spend big money on aftermarket kits.

 

Welcome to FTE and the Slick sickness! Yep, a hobby, and yep, can be expensive, depends on what your plans are! My current 66 is my fun daily driver, I had it in the garage for a few weeks, all new brakes, M/C, drums turned, new seals, bearings, shocks. Last thing I need to do is the radius arm pivot bushings, and the I-beam bushings, but I know that the brakes are safe and it drives like a charm. I left the body alone, I have come to love the character of the patina! "Shrek" is a joy to drive, and on my last trip down to fresburg (to pick up a set of 4 slotted mags!! and the Costco run), he got 16.8!
Granted, his floorboards and all are rust-free. Enjoy your new Slick, and as stated, have a plan and then double the cost and don't ever plan on getting an 1/8 of it back, do it for the fun and enjoyment of it!
Here he is with new tennis shoes and laces!!

 

Wait! Save your money and buy a registered, running truck. This one may be a source for parts and swap meet deals but a not running rust bucket will wreck your dreams of tooling around in a classic old Ford. Plenty of rust free stuff available in the midwest. So I say wait. 65-66 have more friendly basis to start, i. e. disk brakes, power steering and tons more junk yard parts. Hang around here a while and connect with other Slick fans in your area. Seriously I've been doing this for 50 years and a rusty long bed 64 with standard transmission and a 6 cylinder engine is not a good place to start. IMHO!

 

Glen,

The frame vin should start with a star and finish with a star. Make sure the frame vin matches the title and the visual vin on the door perfectly or be prepared for a title hassel when you sell. I would not spend a cent on one with a bad title without getting it cleared up first.

As has been pointed out over and over, as long as you never move out of state or sell out of state or have a buyer check the frame vin, or have someone claim your truck was stolen from them, or get reported by a friend, family member or previous owner, there will never be an issue, but once the ugly scab is pulled back.... yuck!!

I live 30 miles southwest of Ark City in Okie land and have 2 very solid 66 F250s, good vins, good up to date tittle and tags. Send me a personal message if interested. It is nice to have a driving project vice a pile of parts.

I am working a frame off restore on a 1928 Chevy Sedan and my current favorite is a 62 Ford 4x4 in the body shop at this time. Both came out of Kansas last year.

 

Wow, lots of comments to follow-up on. Thanks to everyone.

And for anyone concerned about it, I haven't bought it yet, and will offer less than the $600 "revised asking price" if I try.

TCAPer: I appreciate the welcome! Same to you, Pickupmanx2, and I also like the patina on your truck and the name Shrek is perfect!

NumberDummy: I was hoping you'd show up as I've seen your comments in other threads and your knowledge is priceless. Good info on the brakes; I didn't know this of course, being "new" to "old" Fords. ... I'd say that in the near term, stock brakes would be OK for me. (Unless what you're telling me is: The 1964 brakes are insufficient and unsafe and should be replaced regardless of application.) ... My initial plan would be to get my feet wet and my knuckles bloody gradually getting this truck into presentable condition as a weekend-about-town vehicle and feed-sack hauler. It might not get over 45 mph all that often. ... If I decided to amp it up and build a V8 with my race-engine-building uncle in the future, street rod this truck or whatever, then the brakes would be a big concern. But if I'm positioned to be throwing a bunch of money at the rest of the truck, driveline and dolled-up body, interior, etc., expensive aftermarket brakes would just be another "cost of doing business."

William: There's no evidence that this truck isn't registered. The old man said he and the grandson were driving it around for awhile before deciding to dismantle for the body work when the kid threw in the towel. Pretty sure they were driving around for $40 a year on that '64 tag in the back window, as he suggested that I do. So I presume -- will confirm, but presume -- that the vehicle has a clear Kansas title. ... Also, I'd need to have it proven, but the old man said it was running fine until parked a few months ago, and if he put the battery back in he expected she'd fire right up. So she might be a only a battery and better tires away from drivable. ... Certainly the rust, missing bumpers and tailgate, and other weakness are of concern. And certainly if I were quite patient, I could end up finding a cleaner, better truck for two or three times the money. Then again, there are a bunch of them for sale that aren't any better, or maybe even worse, and those sellers also want two or three times the money. ... Your points are well taken, though.

And OBP: I'll send you a private message about the 1966 F-250s. I'm a 1966 model myself. And thanks for the dish on the frame VIN. That's where i figured you were going with that, but wasn't sure.

 

Asterisks are stamped before/after hidden frame VIN's so that additional numbers cannot be added without them being obvious.

1965/66 F100/250 2WD's: Disc brakes and P/S are basically a bolt on from 1973/79 F100/250 2WD's.

1961/64 F100/250's have front leaf springs, parts from 1965/79's with Twin-I-Beam front suspension will not work.

1961/64's use a different engine mounting setup than 1965/79's, so there's no bolt on swap from 1965/79 2WD's if you want to swap engines.

IMO, this 1964 is a mangy old cur that will cost way more than it'll ever be worth to fix it. PASS!

 

Firstoff, welcome to FTE Glenn...I think thats a pretty sound starting point based on the pix...floor rust is typical as are rear cab corners being rusted through to some degree as is the front of the bed floor and rear bed area you showed a pic of...mine has the same issue in the bed rear...theres a crossmember there that traps crud and thus rusts out...I would look for bondo/body filler...bottoms of doors, bottoms of fenders and front leading areas of fenders...you can reach inside the wheelwell and feel the inside of the fender up front and thus feel dents that may have been bondoed over...The hood center area is a very typical rust area...all in all...for the price its not too bad...if it has all the outer trim.
As for the VIN...its located on the passenger side frame rail top surface about 12 inches in front of the main engine crossmember...wirebrush and possibly sandpaper will uncover it. It should, if LH door is original, match the warranty plate on the door. post the codes and several here, myself included, can decode it as we have the Ford master parts Catalog...
Its not a bad looking truck...and I love the Ks 64 plate...offer him 400 and go from there...I would think 500 would be respectable assuming it runs and drives and stops...the 64 trucks have leaf spring front ends so thus ride alot firmer then later Twin I Beam models.

Keep us posted on how things shake out:-)


- cs65

 

Thanks again to everybody and hello to camperspecial65. Thank you.

There are some very strong opinions, particularly from those who advise staying away from the truck. It's certainly valuable to note how much less versatile this truck would be in accepting bolt-ons from more modern years.

All of your input will be taken into consideration, but forgive me if I do something rash, especially if the old fella will come down much further on the price. (It also wouldn't hurt me to drive a county over to his place in the country, where he tells me he has a barn with other projects in it, including a a 1962 Studebaker Lark with parts car, a 1941 Plymouth pickup, I believe he said a 1954 Buick Special and a couple of other vehicles I neglected to remember because I'd started making mental notes about this truck.)

I'll have to find the next time he's at the flea market to check the frame VIN vs. the door VIN. That could be the weekend, I may be hours away on the weekend for work, and so there won't likely be any great rush to make what might be one great mistake.