Thanks to NumberDummy I now know what size the tank is and the type of vehicle it came from.
Slowly but surely I am learning what the odd parts in my truck are from.
This is wonderful info to have especially when needing parts.

I am currently talking with some people at Dennis Carpenters to find out if the sending unit has a different resistance rating than the gauge.
Working the unit by hand factory gauge reads from empty to half, and the aftermarket gauge reads from half to full.
This means either the resistance doesn't match or the sending unit is bad.
They carry floats and replacement sending units. $5 vs. $50.
If replacing it with get full and proper reading on the stock gauge I will wait a couple weeks and just get the new sending unit.
If it is only going to read from empty to half with a new unit, then there is no reason to spend the extra money.

On a different note, I plan to completely remove the ugly toolbox.
To do this I need to build a top plate to cover the hole left by removing the toolbox.
I plan to hinge it, add a lock, and possibly add a padded seat on top.
I also want to move the filler neck from the side plate to under the top plate.
This way I can have it closer to the side of the truck and it would be more secure.
Similar to how bass boats have their tanks locked under a flip up panel.

 

Update: Got my sending unit in and put a little gas and it seems to be working so far.
Went to lunch with a friend. When leaving I went to show off the truck.
Hop in and no start! I have to get a hammer from security. That takes about 30min.
Get the hammer and climb under the truck. I am in a dark car garage so I can barely see.
I smack the starter a couple times and then try it again. still nothing.
I climb under again and smack it with the hammer and it moves!
The bottom bolt was missing and the top bolt was lose. Starter was not even close to the flywheel.
No tools on hand so I line it back up and hand tighten the top bolt. This gets it started and I head home.
About 4 blocks from the house the top bolt falls out. The starter was hanging by the power wire when I pulled in at the house.
Starter seems to be ok, but now I have find new bolts and hope the threads are OK.
If the threads are screwed I can get 2 bolts with nuts and lock washers. Just run them as through bolts.

 

opps, forgot to update.

I had some bolts in the bottom of my tool cart that I was able to use for the starter and all is good there.

Sending unit works but the gauge doesn't read past half a tank. I grounded the wire for the gauge and it went to full, slowly, but it did get to full.
I tested outside of the tank for swing value at top and bottom and the gauge never went above half at full. I am thinking I should replace my cluster since the other gauges are messed up anyway.
These are not easy to come by and money is an issue, so if you guys have any suggestions for a way to get the gauge reading properly I am all ears.

just a note about the gauges in the cluster: all the needles are bent from someone messing around in the cluster so I have no idea if their angles are correct.

 

Sounds like you have a heck of a project going on here. And it seems to me that you are doing a fine job keeping everything going with doing it all yourself. I'm doing kinda that same thing on my ford. Just had to do a motor swap which broke me, then no sooner is the motor in and running but the freeze plug behind the motor mount on the drivers side blows out on me. Getting that fixed soon as I can, just have to unbolt the motor and jack it up and all.

 

good thing about freeze plugs is they are all labor and very little cost.
I have to pick my battles. I have so much I want to do with the truck but the funds are lacking.
I would love to get a second 300 i6 and T18 to completely go through and then just swap them out. So many people pull these out for the V8 and auto combo that I know I will find one if I have patience.

I have to stay focused on drivability right now because it is my daily driver. No money for frills.

 

I understand that. I am working on getting mine driving again so i have a daily driver. Not spending anything on extra stuff at all. I have the same tight budget on mine. Gonna have a friend help me rattle can it all one color next. It is 4 different colors right now.

 

gonna rattle can mine once I can afford the materials to sand and spray. Guessing about $200 to sand a spray.

 

Update: Apparently the truck doesn't care for the 117 temps were have been getting here in the Vegas Valley. The rubber fuel hose, someone had put between the pump and the carb, was collapsing on itself causing a no start issue. Kind of a vapor lock situation.
So I replaced the rubber line with a proper steel line. unfortunately I had purchased the wrong length line so I had to run it in front of the valve cover instead of behind the oil breather cap where it belongs. You will see what I mean in the pics.



I have also found my exhaust leak. It is the seal/gasket between the intake and the exhaust manifold. I don't know if they are warped or damaged, but the seal is definitely shot.

 

I just thought I would throw this out there for consideration.

I've owned a number of old Effies and Cornbinders (Internationals) and there is a common theme when working with the dash gauges.

There is a Constant Voltage Regulator (CVR) mounted on the backside of the cluster that provides a regulated voltage, the value escapes me at the moment. You might check the voltage being provided to the gauges against the value listed in a Ford Factory repair manual. If the value is too low, the gas and oil pressure gauges will never show full value.

My last 'Binder never showed a full tank until I replaced the CVR with a Borg Warner R307 Constant Voltage Regulator or Instrument Voltage Regulator. It was not a direct replacement (actually a MOPAR part) but with a bit of modifications, it made the tank show just over full with a full tank. The oil pressure and water temp gauges functioned normally after that, too. I think the Ford CVR is still available from NAPA.

Hope this helps you,

A former Vegas dweller that was stationed at Nellis AFB,

Ray

 

mine has a the pulse regulator and I am receiving pulse but I didn't check it for proper voltage. It may have finally died as I now get nothing at all from the gauge and have hooked to an aftermarket one.

 

Hey Greg. The part number on that manifold/manifold gasket was C5AZ9448B. Discontinued but Kinsel Lincoln Mercury in Texas shows 8 in stock. Call Gina there at 1-800-816-2894. Last known list price was $2.11. It is a metal gasket. Tell here Jeff from Chapman Ford told you to call. She knows me by my old job.
BTW, You had the tool box where was the red-neck hood hold down chain?

 

Great looking flareside!

 

it was on the dog

Thanks

 

Great Project! Keep up the good bump work!

 

Thanks. I will be making more progress in the next couple months. I am currently in a lack of Truck Budget state.
Just keeping it driving right now.