Just a quick little update.
I now have a seat cover( I know yippie for me )

The new speedo gear works but the gauge bounces so I need to pull the cable and lube.

Still looking for an oil dipstick.

I just found out that I have a right side turn signal issue. it also flashes the left side rear.
Also when the headlights are on it doesn't flash at all. I will be looking today to see if they got wired together when the lights were put on.
Any other suggestions for things to look at are welcomed.

I was able to get the parking brake working by adjusting up the rear drums.
When I had the rear drums off I found that the rear axle seals are leaking.
Anyone know if the bearings are a press on type or if I can replace all this in the driveway.
Rear is -- H3: Ford WFF 9" Heavy Duty Rear Axle with a 9 3/8" Ring Gear / 4.09-1 / 2 Pinion Traction-Lok (Limited Slip) / 3,600 lbs. Rear Axle Capacity.

Also in case anyone thought I was kidding about my radio situation I have posted a pick of my state of the art currently limited sound system.

 

okie dokie, got the turn signal issue figured out.
someone put the bulb in incorrectly and I guess it vibrated around until it was arcing the parking and turn signals.

 

If it's a nine inch, then I think they are press on bearings. Mine were anyway. I just had a local shop do mine.

 

I don't have the $ to pay others to do my work so I was hoping they were not pressed on.
The diagram showed a retaining ring so was hoping against hope.
I will check with the shop on the corner to see what they would charge to press them if I supply everything.
Also if I have to take the axles somewhere then I have to make arrangements to borrow the neighbors truck.

 

Well I checked with a couple shops and they all want $80 or more for 10 minutes of work!
I can buy the press and do it myself for $90.I guess I will be getting a new tool.

Noticed that my throttle is sticking a bit. Need to find out if its the linkage or the carb.
I have a rebuild kit on the way for the carb but still need to be able to use the truck until it gets here.

 

Yeah, probably be worth it to buy a press, might just need it again!

 

I will definately be able to use it for multiple things.
I still do small mechanic jobs here at the house and there are plenty of things that need a press.

Used some spray carb cleaner and cleaned up the linkage, no more sticky throttle.
I am still smelling old gas either from spraying the carb or it's still working though the system.

 

Looks like I need a new heater control panel and fan switch.
The blend arm is completely missing as is the back side of the fan switch.
More things to add to the list...

 

I think I have that, from the 68 cab. the 67 used pull *****, no panel.

 

But we may never know as long as the boxes go unexplored
Keep this up I will just send you a wish list.

 

I just have to make sure the dash out of the 79 will fit. I got up to get that truck in a few weeks!

 

Just a small update, as I have not been able to do much.

I first was thinking my stock alternator was not enough to charge the battery with the very short trips I make with the truck.
This was causing me to have to hook a charger to it every couple days or so.
Well after doing a bit of wire tracing, I found the Amp gauge was shorting out on the bracket.
This caused the breaker circuit in the voltage regulator to flip and not charge.
I have removed the Amp gauge and everything seems fine for now.

I am still looking for a way to get the fuel gauge working properly.
I have no access to the sending unit. It is on the tank in the bed of the truck.
The cover plate and tool box are tack welded in on top of it.
If I cut the welds I have no way to re-weld things back in place.
This would leave the tank uncovered and is an unacceptable option.
Also, I am unsure how the tank itself is secured other than the box and cover plate.

I finally have an oil dipstick that I cut and marked to specs. Being able to check my oil level makes me more comfortable.

 

Update for those that are interested:

I finally got around to rebuilding my Carter YFA carb. It leaked fuel and wouldn't run unless the choke was partly on.
I pulled it yesterday and spent the day soaking parts in carb soak, and scrubbing with a toothbrush.
I only have the 1 gallon can of carb soak, so I had to do it in stages as all the parts wouldn't fit at the same time.
This morning I have everything cleaned and laid out so I can do inspection of the cleaned parts.
Carb is in pretty sad shape.
It looks to have been rebuilt at least once before and has wrong gaskets and missing pieces.
The air/fuel mixture screw has been over tightened and has busted through the chamber wall.
The mounting surface between the center and top plates is bent from being over tightened.
One of the butterfly's screws is broke off in the rod.
Also one of the needle valves is bent.

To flatten out the needle valve I rolled it between 2 pieces of flat iron - one problem fixed.
For the bent mounting surface I took a piece of flat iron and a BFH, and "gently" flattened it back out. - second problem fixed.
Installed proper gaskets and the missing pump check ball and weight - problem 3 solved.

Now the broken screw and the overtightened mix screw problems I am not sure how to approach. Suggestions are welcomed.

Carb is back on the truck and so far so good. I am not seeing any leaks and I can run at idle without the choke on.
I am getting a touch of a stumble when first accelerating so some adjusting is still needed.
I think a new carb is in my future when I can afford it unless there are ways to fix this one.

Well, that's all I have for now.

I hope to uncover the tank and fix the sending unit issue this weekend. I will update with any new developments.

 

Sounds like some real challenges with that carb!! Maybe someone has a used one that would be a better candidate for a rebuild.

 

Well, if someone is kind enough to donate one. I am in a serious cash flow deficit.

I didn't wait until tomorrow to uncover the tank. I got bored.
Here is what I found


and here is the reason the fuel gauge doesn't work




tank is in great looking shape. it is 39" x 17" x 11.5
Glad I pulled the box, the fuel hose is shot and I am surprised it doesn't leak.
The sending unit actually works but is the wrong ohms for both my factory and my aftermarket gauge.
on the factory gauge it reads from empty to 1/2 tank and on the aftermarket from 1/2 to full. go figure.
I plan to get a float for it tomorrow and just deal with it until I can get a proper sending unit.

anyone know of a 6 bolt sending unit that works with the factory gauge?