Alright folks I've had a thread on this before but i'm bringing it up again. I've had enough with the leaky oil pan since its getting worse at this point (Its not the gasket). I'm not really sure what oil pan I should get...So if someone could help me out in and point me in the right direction. I'm looking to spend no more than 100$. I guess I'm just looking for an OE Replacement but not sure on the different types of materials. I was checking out jc-whitney for pans I saw, steel and spectra premium which I have no idea what that is or means





My plan is to 1st drain the oil, loosen up the bolts on the pan so I can see the current clearance, which I know is not much. Unbolt the exhaust pipes from the ends of the headers, Lift the engine up a few inches until the upper air intake is touching firewall, place blocks between engines and cross member. Then try again. Also when I jack up the engine I have to disconnect the tranny from the T-Case correct? Also I only saw one lift point to lift the engine on the right hand side of the block, is there another one? or just that? If anyone else has some tips on lifted the engine please chime in. I only want to have to do this once. Thanks

 

There is only one actual lifting eye on the V8's. (Don't ask me why, some engineer though it was a good idea which should explain it, right)?

Be careful jamming the engine back against the firewall. The Thermactor air injection manifold (cross-over pipe) with the check valve in it is back there along with the knock sensor (302's only) in the upper skirt right against the bellhousing flange. The diverter valve for the Thermactor system is also nestled behind the passenger cylinder head. You will need to remove the fan or run the risk of either catching the shroud or gouging the radiator itself with the bottom edge of the blades as the engine tilts back. Other things around the engine bay should be fairly easy to spot but these things are either hidden from immediate view or not apparent until the engine has been shifted so far that "making room" becomes more of a chore than the initial project.

Out of curiosity, is the pan just that badly bent that it will not seal?

 

Thanks Grey, I knew about the radiator was an obsticle itself but wasn't sure about anything else. The pan is just rotted on the bottom, when I bought the truck it already had a patch that held for quite a while and I have tried to repatch it but it didn't hold long. So for this whole process I can leave the tranny attached correct?

 

I've never separated engine from trans when dealing with the oil pan. Might want to disconnect your shift linkage too now that I think about it.

 

Good point. I was changing the oil today and threw another patch on the pan for now. I wont be able to do this till I finish my classes in april

 

had to replace one about 12 years ago on the 88 Bronco I had... some PO before me welded the plug to the pan. arghh motor can stay connected to tranny just one more PITA you deal with. A BFH to the firewall can give you an extra inch of clearance for thermactor pipe Greystreak mentioned. if it wasn't for the oil pump the pan would slide right out. lol

 

Thanks, what is a BFH by the way?
It may be a couple of months before I post an new information on this.

 

Big F... Hammer?

 

Sawzall to the firewall instead?

 

Alrighty then, I knew it was time to bring this was back (aaaagggaaaiin) but, I've come down to figuring out a week to change this mother F'in oil pan because its leaking bad. So some have told me to just yank the motor to change it. I like this and don't like this. I've never pulled a motor before... so I don't know what i'm getting myself into. But my thought is that I can do the idler, water pump, hoses, radiator, oil pan all at once. Which would be fantastic.

So my main questions which I think i asked before but since it seems theres new people here compared to the last time I asked.... I only see one lift point on the motor. Where is there a second point?

2.Do I just drain the fluids and start marking everything and just start disconnecting stuff?

 

There should be a tapped bolt hole in the heads on the rear of the engine . Put the proper bolt in and attach your lift chain that way . And yes , drain fluids mark stuff and take many pictures to help you on reassembly . Many pictures from many angles . That is always good advice for beginners , And long projects ( or persons with poor memory ) .

 

Alright, cool.

Also...

Should I remove the engine with the tranny or the engine by itself?

 

Easier to pull just the engine ( unless front clip is removed ) . I have seen people pull the tnanny before removing the engine . Easier at times to install engine then install tranny . Not the way I do it , but some do .