88 F250 C6 issues...please help!
#46
#47
From the research I have done this morning I can pull the shift rod out but will have to drop the pan, filter and valve body...I am a little leery of doing this in the truck!
As for fabbing something, I would essentially have to add another pivot further back because right now the column shift works by pushing to put it in drive but my setup would need to pull to put it in drive
As for fabbing something, I would essentially have to add another pivot further back because right now the column shift works by pushing to put it in drive but my setup would need to pull to put it in drive
#48
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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^^^^ this^^^^
just make a bracket that bolts to the existing shift lever, but have it extend up towards the floor. then hook the column shift linkage to the new bracket. this will reverse the shift pattern of the trans, making it work like a column shift instead of a floor shift.
#49
#50
On a separate note, I pulled the pan off my broken tranny and figured I would test how easy it would be to swap the arm around. Is there some trick to getting this nut off? I removed the valve body and can get a wrench on the nut but there is no room to get it to move. Do I need to sacrifice a wrench and grind it down or is there a better way? I would prefer not to open my trans back up unless I can feel pretty comfortable doing this.
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#51
One other issue that has come up with the shift lever being in its current orientation is that I cannot get the neutral safety switch to allow the truck to start in park or reverse. Is there a different switch required for floor shift applications or do I need to do something to my current switch?
#52
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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look at the shift lever that is on the trans.
now take a piece of 1/4 inch thick metal the width of the shift lever, and make it twice the length of the current shift lever. drill 3 holes on it. one on each end, and one in the middle.
remove the nut on the shift lever, and put the piece of metal on it, then put the nut back on. put a bolt through the hole in the end on the new lever and through the old shift rod attachment hole. this will make it solid. then all you need to do is hook the shift rod up to the hole on top. then the column shifter will work properly, and the neutral safety switch will work.
now take a piece of 1/4 inch thick metal the width of the shift lever, and make it twice the length of the current shift lever. drill 3 holes on it. one on each end, and one in the middle.
remove the nut on the shift lever, and put the piece of metal on it, then put the nut back on. put a bolt through the hole in the end on the new lever and through the old shift rod attachment hole. this will make it solid. then all you need to do is hook the shift rod up to the hole on top. then the column shifter will work properly, and the neutral safety switch will work.
#54
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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#55
#56
Update after some garage time this weekend...I made a bracket and replaced the stock shift arm that ran from the pivot to the trans arm with a double helm joint piece that I had laying around because it took some of the slop out and also gives me a simpler adjustment than the rusted bolt on the column shaft. It shifts ok and I was able to take the truck for a ride (after I rebuilt the oil cooler which decided to go too)! I used the drill bit to align the neutral safety so it only allows the truck to start in park or neutral but I need to adjust a little because the backup lights are not coming on. Thanks to all that helped...now I need to debug why my glow plugs don't seem to be working properly!
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