Notices
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

88 F250 C6 issues...please help!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #46  
Old 03-17-2013, 08:09 AM
joshofalltrades's Avatar
joshofalltrades
joshofalltrades is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,560
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
try pulling that arm off the tranny and see if you can flip it over - you can on many trannies i've worked on, but i've never tried it on a c6.

if that fails, just fabricate a bracket that goes over that arm to connect to your linkage where you need it to
 
  #47  
Old 03-17-2013, 09:41 AM
jefhuf's Avatar
jefhuf
jefhuf is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
From the research I have done this morning I can pull the shift rod out but will have to drop the pan, filter and valve body...I am a little leery of doing this in the truck!

As for fabbing something, I would essentially have to add another pivot further back because right now the column shift works by pushing to put it in drive but my setup would need to pull to put it in drive
 
  #48  
Old 03-17-2013, 06:03 PM
tjc transport's Avatar
tjc transport
tjc transport is offline
i ain't rite
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
Posts: 60,973
Received 3,101 Likes on 2,163 Posts
Originally Posted by joshofalltrades
just fabricate a bracket that goes over that arm to connect to your linkage where you need it to


^^^^ this^^^^
just make a bracket that bolts to the existing shift lever, but have it extend up towards the floor. then hook the column shift linkage to the new bracket. this will reverse the shift pattern of the trans, making it work like a column shift instead of a floor shift.
 
  #49  
Old 03-17-2013, 11:36 PM
joshofalltrades's Avatar
joshofalltrades
joshofalltrades is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,560
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
just as TJC tried to clarify here, the arm we're talking about fabricating will have its CENTER where the shaft leaves the tranny, it'll connect to the end of the current arm for stability, and connect to the shift linkage at the opposite end (top).
 
  #50  
Old 03-18-2013, 09:36 PM
jefhuf's Avatar
jefhuf
jefhuf is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by joshofalltrades
just as TJC tried to clarify here, the arm we're talking about fabricating will have its CENTER where the shaft leaves the tranny, it'll connect to the end of the current arm for stability, and connect to the shift linkage at the opposite end (top).
Know of any photos of a bracket like this? I'm having trouble wrapping my head around it.

On a separate note, I pulled the pan off my broken tranny and figured I would test how easy it would be to swap the arm around. Is there some trick to getting this nut off? I removed the valve body and can get a wrench on the nut but there is no room to get it to move. Do I need to sacrifice a wrench and grind it down or is there a better way? I would prefer not to open my trans back up unless I can feel pretty comfortable doing this.

image-5.jpg Photo by jefhuf | Photobucket
image-2.jpg Photo by jefhuf | Photobucket
 
  #51  
Old 03-19-2013, 02:01 PM
jefhuf's Avatar
jefhuf
jefhuf is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
One other issue that has come up with the shift lever being in its current orientation is that I cannot get the neutral safety switch to allow the truck to start in park or reverse. Is there a different switch required for floor shift applications or do I need to do something to my current switch?
 
  #52  
Old 03-19-2013, 05:48 PM
tjc transport's Avatar
tjc transport
tjc transport is offline
i ain't rite
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
Posts: 60,973
Received 3,101 Likes on 2,163 Posts
look at the shift lever that is on the trans.
now take a piece of 1/4 inch thick metal the width of the shift lever, and make it twice the length of the current shift lever. drill 3 holes on it. one on each end, and one in the middle.
remove the nut on the shift lever, and put the piece of metal on it, then put the nut back on. put a bolt through the hole in the end on the new lever and through the old shift rod attachment hole. this will make it solid. then all you need to do is hook the shift rod up to the hole on top. then the column shifter will work properly, and the neutral safety switch will work.
 
  #53  
Old 03-19-2013, 06:08 PM
jefhuf's Avatar
jefhuf
jefhuf is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Makes sense and will give it a whirl...will let you guys know how it turns out!

Thanks again for all the help!
 
  #54  
Old 03-20-2013, 03:55 AM
tjc transport's Avatar
tjc transport
tjc transport is offline
i ain't rite
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
Posts: 60,973
Received 3,101 Likes on 2,163 Posts
no problem.
i would have drawn you a picture, but the 3 year old took all the crayons.
and they will not let me use pens or pencils cause i hurt myself with them..
 
  #55  
Old 03-20-2013, 10:26 AM
texas_rebel21's Avatar
texas_rebel21
texas_rebel21 is offline
Junior User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
My transmission does let the truck warm up to operating tempature with it in drive usually will kick in gear if not give it a good rev. Mine has done this for years and shifts just fine
 
  #56  
Old 03-25-2013, 06:34 PM
jefhuf's Avatar
jefhuf
jefhuf is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Update after some garage time this weekend...I made a bracket and replaced the stock shift arm that ran from the pivot to the trans arm with a double helm joint piece that I had laying around because it took some of the slop out and also gives me a simpler adjustment than the rusted bolt on the column shaft. It shifts ok and I was able to take the truck for a ride (after I rebuilt the oil cooler which decided to go too)! I used the drill bit to align the neutral safety so it only allows the truck to start in park or neutral but I need to adjust a little because the backup lights are not coming on. Thanks to all that helped...now I need to debug why my glow plugs don't seem to be working properly!
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Michael Chappell
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
3
03-19-2019 12:17 PM
camcol19
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
11-16-2014 07:35 PM
coryv4
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
6
09-11-2013 03:43 PM
2005f-150
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
14
12-09-2012 07:17 PM
maribou912
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
6
11-29-2011 08:11 PM



Quick Reply: 88 F250 C6 issues...please help!



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:54 PM.