5.4L 3V with miss, rough idle and codes P0340, P0344, P0345, and P0349
#1
5.4L 3V with miss, rough idle and codes P0340, P0344, P0345, and P0349
I recently purchased a Ford pickup. I bought a 2004 F-150 with the 5.4L 3V engine. I have only driven it for about 300 miles so far and am having problems. The engine has 200,000 miles on it. I have read several posts on here about the cam phasers which I believe that I may have some issues with. The engine will run good when cold, on the road, etc. The engine does have a slight ticking after it warms up (cam phasers?). When I come to a stop after the engine is operating temperature, the engine will start to miss and shudder and all 4 above codes come active and are also pending (8 codes in total). All 4 codes are logged at the same time. I have replaced both cam position sensors, both sensor ends and terminals for cam position sensors, checked wiring around rear of engine (does not appear to be rubbed through), all plugs were replaced, and all COP boots are good. Is there anything that can cause these codes that may not be the actual cam position sensors, ie. VTC, COPs, cam phasers? Anyone know what pins the cam position sensors come to on the ECU (so I can ohm the entire wire harness)?
Also, if the engine is missing with the codes active and I rev the engine up it will come back to idle and run great. The engine never dies out, just runs horribly. I have also unplugged each sensor with the engine running which has no effect on the way it runs.
Also, if the engine is missing with the codes active and I rev the engine up it will come back to idle and run great. The engine never dies out, just runs horribly. I have also unplugged each sensor with the engine running which has no effect on the way it runs.
#2
#3
This happened to my 04 5.4l screw 105,000 on it. I disconnected the battery to install a pie aux adapter then when I started it it kept stalling and idling horribly. So I bought some throttle body cleaner and mass airflow sensor cleaner took it all apart cleaned them and put it all back together and it runs great now. Disconnecting the battery for 10 mins or more resets the computer and it needs to relearn but if the throttle body and mass airflow sensor have never been cleaned that is most likely the culprit. If you this its easy as hell took me 20mins all together remember to disconnect the negative on your battery to reset the computer so it can learn with everything clean.
#4
This happened to my 04 5.4l screw 105,000 on it. I disconnected the battery to install a pie aux adapter then when I started it it kept stalling and idling horribly. So I bought some throttle body cleaner and mass airflow sensor cleaner took it all apart cleaned them and put it all back
together and it runs great now. Disconnecting the battery for 10 mins or more resets the computer and it needs to relearn but if the throttle body and mass airflow sensor have never been cleaned that is most likely the culprit. If you this its easy as hell took me 20mins all together remember to disconnect the negative on your battery to reset the computer so it can learn with everything clean.
together and it runs great now. Disconnecting the battery for 10 mins or more resets the computer and it needs to relearn but if the throttle body and mass airflow sensor have never been cleaned that is most likely the culprit. If you this its easy as hell took me 20mins all together remember to disconnect the negative on your battery to reset the computer so it can learn with everything clean.
When it was warm or cold?
#5
I have replaced VCT solenoids to fix this problem . I also just heard from a reman. rep . He claims they are seeing a lot of oil pump issues . Just enough pressure loss to cause running and noise issues . Not low enough oil pressure to turn on lights or show on the gauge . But enough to cause issues . I want to look into that further . It would explain a lot if true .
#6
I have replaced VCT solenoids to fix this problem . I also just heard from a reman. rep . He claims they are seeing a lot of oil pump issues . Just enough pressure loss to cause running and noise issues . Not low enough oil pressure to turn on lights or show on the gauge . But enough to cause issues . I want to look into that further . It would explain a lot if true .
Thanks
#7
The VCT sol's are at the front of the valve covers . They stick straight through the top . Try unplugging them , then drive it with them unplugged . If it runs better , solenoids will prob. fix it . Also . make sure not to use too thick of an oil . It will interfere with the VCT operation . And change it properly .To ck oil press , you need a gauge , take out sending unit , test from there . I'm not leaning towards low oil press . I just heard that from a national rep .
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#8
The VCT sol's are at the front of the valve covers . They stick straight through the top . Try unplugging them , then drive it with them unplugged . If it runs better , solenoids will have prob. fix it . Also . make sure not to use too thick of an oil . It will interfere with the VCT operation . And change it properly .To ck oil press , you need a gauge , take out sending unit , test from there . I'm not leaning towards low oil press . I just heard that from a national rep .
#9
If it sounds THAT bad , we may be beating a dead horse . But , the solenoids stick out of the valve cover , towards the front . Almost full front . They are recessed into the vc and have a standard looking FOMOCO electrical plug . They are sealed at the valve cover with a standard looking seal . They bolt down to the head inside the valve cover . Sorry I can not post a picture .
#10
If it sounds THAT bad , we may be beating a dead horse . But , the solenoids stick out of the valve cover , towards the front . Almost full front . They are recessed into the vc and have a standard looking FOMOCO electrical plug . They are sealed at the valve cover with a standard looking seal . They bolt down to the head inside the valve cover . Sorry I can not post a picture .
Thanks
#11
If it sounds THAT bad , we may be beating a dead horse . But , the solenoids stick out of the valve cover , towards the front . Almost full front . They are recessed into the vc and have a standard looking FOMOCO electrical plug . They are sealed at the valve cover with a standard looking seal . They bolt down to the head inside the valve cover . Sorry I can not post a picture .
Ok, so I just unplugged them. Its cold but when I started it, it ran weird and like backfired and stuff. I'll get it warm tomorrow and see what it does...It only does it after youve been driving about 30-45 mins
#14