So this weekend I pulled out the front section of the interior and sound proofed the floor pan up to the second row. Also fixed the seat heater on the drivers side, replaced the drivers seat cushion, (Wow, what a difference that made) removed center console and installed center seat.

Can't figure out what's wrong with the passenger heater. light comes on then goes off. Will not turn back on unless seat heater module is unplugged and plugged back in. I swapped all parts from the drivers seat to passenger side and it does the same thing. Heating elements are good. Although the back heater looks like it got really hot and caught fire based on the condition of the cushion. So I might just replace that one.

Here are some pictures of the project:

Front without seats and center console.



Front with carpet pulled back.











Front with second skin damplifier pro vibration damper installed.





Front with luxury liner pro (noise barrier) installed on top of damplifier pro.





Pictures of seat arm rest post and post removed, this must be done so the new center seat will fit. I rolled the seat cushion up and cut the post with a saw saw. This will prevent excessive grinding which could catch the seat on fire.





Picture after post was cut off and painted with seat cover back on.



Pictures with interior put back together with new center seat.





Still need to clean seats and put sound deadening material in the doors and under the hood.

 

I want a jump seat so bad, where did you get that? eBay?

I don't need one for more seating, I need one for when my girlfriend rides with me... so she can snuggle up to me.

 

Link to the deadner and how well did it work against the noise?

 

I added it for the same reason, so my wife is not so fare away. lol Ebay is the best place I have found for them. Any were from $200 - $500. The link is Vehicle Sound Deadening Materials for Noise Reduction, and Thermal Insulation. Call 800 679-8511. | Second Skin Audio, Made in the USA. for the sound deader. Doing the floor did make a little bit of a difference, adding the doors and hood should make a pretty noticeable difference. I feels like the inside of a studio a little bit inside now and you can hear voices a lot easier. But I didn't notice a difference with my phones db meter, still sitting at 80 db. But I can really tell were the diesel is now that all that sound deader is there. lol The rest of my order should be here Thursday, so hoping to get the doors and hood done this weekend.

 

Great thread. I'm in the process of doing the same thing to mine and will also be using second skin. Did you ever get the doors done? Did you add any deadener to the roof? How much damplifier and luxury liner did it take to do the first row area?

 

Took 60 sqf of damplifier pro (B stock) and 1 order of 36 sqf of luxury liner pro. That got the front of the cab back to the hump on the second row and all the doors with damplifier pro and luxury liner. The hood was done also but only with damplifier pro as they said the heat would be an issue under the hood for luxury liner. Wish I had it in me to pull the dash and do the firewall but that ain't gonna happen. Over all it made about 1 to 1 1/2 db difference up front. I still need to do the back floor pan and sides with the 2 materials and possibly the roof. No point in leaving it half done but that will have to wait for now. If you are planning to do the hole truck as I am, plan on pulling about $1100 out for the project and be prepared for some hurting hands. Lol Do I think its worth it, we'll that depends on what you use the truck for. I will say that my Ex is now quieter then my wife's top of the line Nissan Pathfinder and stays a lot cooler inside then hers does. Can't wait to finish the project, hope the reduced noise lowers driver fatigue and gets the kids to talk at a normal level during our trip. =0)

 

Nice work! I like it!

 

REPS for all those great pictures.
I've wondered where the wires go/come from and know I get it.

When I installed my dome-light override in the overhead console, I noticed the roof is uninsulated and that contributes (IMO) to the lie-o-meter chips falling off since the sun really heats up the roof, probably insulation would be more useful for HEAT than sound up there.

I like to hear the sound of my diesel - so sound deadening isn't my priority..

 

lol, I like to here my diesel also, but on a 4000 mile trip that sound will get old after a while. But now I just crack the window and all is right as rain. I can see that about the roof getting really hot and yes this stuff works great to keep the heat out. I have not done heater core mods and can sure tell a difference in how cold the truck gets with the air on. The auto temperature feature seems to work better now. It also does not get as hot inside when it sits. I didn't do the firewall so the diesel sound is still there just not in my ear anymore or as prominent if that makes sense.

 

Ok. Thanks for the numbers on materials. I have been reading Welcome to Sound Deadener Showdown | Sound Deadener Showdown site for a the past few days and have a good plan of attack for mine. There is a lot of good info on there with scientific explanations to back it up. The guy that built the website has years of experience and has used numerous big name products and decided to go into business for himself, but at the same time giving the people a detailed descritpion of how to do the work yourself. Anyway, I just ordered 40 sq ft of audiotechnix 80 mil CLD(constrained layer damper) for my base layer(they are having a close out sale so check EBay if your wanting some). From my research, their CLD is very comparable to Second Skin CLD. I will be following the 25% coverage method for the CLD layer. Then MLV(mass loaded vinyl) on every thing except the roof. Then CCF as a decoupler on anything that will have intermittent contact with the MLV, so this would be mostly just the doors. For the roof, I plan on doing 25% coverage with CLD and then installing a layer of 3M thinsulate acoustic. I will be doing this in steps and will post them on here in a seperate thread as I go. Act210, when you do get to the rest, please post more pic and results. I'm interested to see how it turns out.

 

Wow... I just started this a few days ago and will be making a thread of my own. Looks great so far and thanks for the heads up on the close-out!

 

I have had all my second skin products in my garage for over a year! Ha! I'm actually starting the noise reduction project at the end of the month! I can't wait! I used Dynamat only with my first Ex and I can tell you there was a noticeable difference when traveling and you really do arrive more refreshed than without it.

Important notes: If you don't have an underhood liner/insulator, put some kind of radiant barrier material there. It really helps protect the paint from hot engine and sound! Seal the firewall as best you can with grommets and insulation. Expanding foam and plain old foam will help in these areas. The roof is the #2 contributor to noise in the truck. Number one(besides engine) is the windows! Not much you can do there, but I hear that window tint actually helps(?).

Wheel wells are a place to concentrate(underneath and in the cabin) and the firewall.

GO FOR IT GUYS!

 

All great valid points. Also, dont forget the door seal mod too.

One other thing i think worth mentioning too. I have been wondering about closing off the cabin pressure vents and whether to seal them off or not. There is a method to cover them while still allowing them to somewhat function. Here is a link to explain what im talking about. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/how-to/back-wall. I have heard both bad and good things about sealing the vents off. I remember closing the doors on my grandpas 85 model chevy and having to slam them to get them to shut and then you thought you head was going to explode from th pressure wave. Lol! So i see the point, but an easy way to test it is just stuff the vents tightly with some rags and then try shutting your doors. Also, here is a good little thread showing the SDS methods. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/f...the-ssa-mazda/

 

Guess I didn't really think about the roof being a big contributor to sound in the Ex. But I can see that after taking a look under the headliner. There is not much up there but metal flapping around in the wind. lol

ClintUSAF... sounds like you got a few long weekends planned out! lol Cant wait to see your results with a completed job. Mine is only about 1/2 done and I still noticed a difference. If you have a smarty phone download the decibel meter and take some before and after tests.

 

Thanks Atc210. Not many people catch that. I keep thinking it wont take that long, but i know im wrong. I guess just because i have already disassembled so much of my interior before and have read alot along with looking at how to's. but time will tell. I will take a db reading at idle, at highway cruising speed and then at full throttle just to see how they compare after the treatment. Ill try my best to throw a link in here when i post my build on here.

Just out of curiosity, how much stock sound deadener did any of your guys trucks have. Im wondering if the trim level of the truck correlates to the stock soundproofing? My 2002 lariat already has CLD tiles on the metal panels, a very thin layer of CCF on the surface of the door under the door panel, and then the door panel has something close to the 3M acoustic on the inside of the door panel.