Disc Brake Conversion????
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2013
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That's a good one. I'm not sure. I would take some measurements and if everything lines up, go for it. I know that there's a dude in Texarkana who sells everything you need to to swap out to disc brakes for $200. That's where I got mine. He normally posts on Craigslist.
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I ended up using an aftermarket brake proportioning valve, but the metering valve in the front is fowled out and a dribble of brake fluid comes out while the truck is running..
The frontend I used was off of a 1976 F150. I couldn't see any model numbers on the valve. I think I will try to go find a NOS part instead of aftermarket.. I have attached some pics of it. Other than the air leak it stops really really good. I just don't have a firm pedal...
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The frontend I used was off of a 1976 F150. I couldn't see any model numbers on the valve. I think I will try to go find a NOS part instead of aftermarket.. I have attached some pics of it. Other than the air leak it stops really really good. I just don't have a firm pedal...
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Last edited by Rabbit72; May 26, 2014 at 07:55 PM. Reason: Wrong pictures.
5th Wheeling
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
From: middle tennessee
Power Brake upgrade - problem
I'm upgrading a 1970 F-100 to power disc brakes. The front discs from the 1973 donor bolted right on, but when I mounted the booster & M/C, the pushrod is too short! The donor truck is no longer available, so I cannot tell if the pedal was different. I found this on the forums while doing a search, it's quite disheartening. Can anyone steer me the right direction to connect this thing up?
Thanks,
Mike/Tennessee
Found during a search:
Thanks,
Mike/Tennessee
Found during a search:
Make sure the booster/master cylinder match, because:
1973/79 F100/350: There are TWENTY TWO different brake pedals, NINETEEN different P/B boosters, SEVENTEEN different master cylinders and SEVEN different clutch pedals, I kid you not.
1968/72 F100/350: There is ONE brake and clutch pedal.
1973/79 F100/350: There are TWENTY TWO different brake pedals, NINETEEN different P/B boosters, SEVENTEEN different master cylinders and SEVEN different clutch pedals, I kid you not.
1968/72 F100/350: There is ONE brake and clutch pedal.
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Mount
Did you use the mount the booster was attached to? Mine came from a 1976 F150 and the whole assembly bolted on just fine. The only small problem (aside from a bad proportioning valve) is that pedal doesn't come up as far as it did, so now I have a small block of wood mounted to the bracket my brake light switch hits. The pedals in the 1973 and up hit the collar that holds the steering column against the dash instead of the bent plate bolted to the bottom of the dash.
Last edited by Rabbit72; May 27, 2014 at 09:10 PM. Reason: Added more info
5th Wheeling
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
From: middle tennessee
Yes - I took the whole booster/MC assembly and mounted it to the firewall, including the pushrod that was attached to it. From what you are saying, yours bolted in and worked, but your pushrod must be a little shorter if you needed a block for the brake light switch.
I still have the pushrod from the old manual brake setup - I will see if it will work in the new setup. If not, it sounds like I may have to fabricate my own pushrod.
I still have the pushrod from the old manual brake setup - I will see if it will work in the new setup. If not, it sounds like I may have to fabricate my own pushrod.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
When using the 73-79 P/B you have to use the whole pedal bracket not just the brake pedal. This why your pedal sits lower.
I found a 1/2 rebuilt kit for those steel proportioning valve. That did no good don't even try it's a waste of money & time. I don't know what Ford was thinking using a steel one that become eaten up inside and won't hone out or seal good any more.
Note! The little brass tit sticking out the of the rubber boot has to be pulled out when while bleeding the brake system. Not ez for a one man job wirh out the special u-shape tool that holds it out. But away to hold it open can be rigged up with wire.
I found out by using a different master cyl. changed my braking power.
With a larger well type master cyl. 1.1/8" I had a soft 1/2 pedal. I switched to a smaller well Master cyl and had a had full harder pedal. Both push rod were at correct adjustment no play.
I ended up using a brass later yr proportioning valve that still was not great until, I added a rear brake line adjustable proportioning valve now great stops great..
Orich
I found a 1/2 rebuilt kit for those steel proportioning valve. That did no good don't even try it's a waste of money & time. I don't know what Ford was thinking using a steel one that become eaten up inside and won't hone out or seal good any more.
Note! The little brass tit sticking out the of the rubber boot has to be pulled out when while bleeding the brake system. Not ez for a one man job wirh out the special u-shape tool that holds it out. But away to hold it open can be rigged up with wire.
I found out by using a different master cyl. changed my braking power.
With a larger well type master cyl. 1.1/8" I had a soft 1/2 pedal. I switched to a smaller well Master cyl and had a had full harder pedal. Both push rod were at correct adjustment no play.
I ended up using a brass later yr proportioning valve that still was not great until, I added a rear brake line adjustable proportioning valve now great stops great..
Orich
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ahh
So, you pull the pin out when bleeding the brakes? I was pushing it in. Next time I'm out at a yard I'll pull the brake pedal and bracket off a truck, but for now duct tape and a wood block is a suitable temporary fix. It stopped really well. The pedal was just soft.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
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Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Yeah pull it pin head out. I rigged up a large old sink rubber stopper chain with the coupler. I had it held open while bleeding the fronts disc.
It's suppose to let the fluid flow to the fronts. Hell It didn't seem like it made any difference in bleeding.
It shows in my manual that funky little horse shoe shape tool that fits between the tip & boot that holes it out pushing pin outwards.
Orich
It's suppose to let the fluid flow to the fronts. Hell It didn't seem like it made any difference in bleeding.
It shows in my manual that funky little horse shoe shape tool that fits between the tip & boot that holes it out pushing pin outwards.
Orich
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