My fenders are pretty rusted, doubt you would want them. Lol. Is there anyone on here running F2 front fenders and F1 rears?? I wander if the shape difference would look funny. I'm thinking about running Harley F150 20"s on my 52 F1.

 

Thanks, I will do that. Picked the truck up today. Turns out it is a F3. hope the f2 and f3 are the same.?

 

We pick up the truck today. Turns out it is a F3, hope the f2 and f3 are the same.?

Truck has 62xxx orignal miles and not alot of rust. Engine is not stuck so we may try to get it running. Got Title and paper work from 54 up to the 70's. Floor boards, cab corners and rockers are solid and gauges look great. Left door in good shape, right door has very little rust. Rolled really easy with no wheels locked up. Even the tires hold air. Head lights and buckets are laying in the cab.

Please give me your opinions, "On average", what is this truck worth, as it sets?

 

They will be very noticeable when you look at the truck from the side.

Biggest difference, and concern, is the wheels. Looks like you have stock 17". Do a search for "Widow Maker". There many FTE discussions about them.

 

That will buff right out!

 

As it sits, $500-750.

 

I would have to agree with the panelman. I don't know where "Here" is but a lot depends on location. In a sunny dry place a vehicle is going to be worth a lot less than in a crappy, cold, snowy place where everything gets eaten away by road salt. Also, the type of economy places a big roll. If it's in a mainly agricultural area where trucks were popular and many were bought, used and tossed aside on farms then not as much as maybe a place when there aren't as many trucks, or any specific type of vehicle. Again, we don't know where the fine city or town of "Here" is located so it's hard to tell the value of the truck. Up here in the rust belt, even though they're getting harder to find, I think the $500-750 price range is good. It really doesn't matter though, you bought the truck and you seem really happy with it and that's all that really matters. You didn't pay more than what you thought the truck was worth.

Repeat suggestion, list your location, we like to know where people are located especially if you ask questions that location plays a roll in. You don't need to give your specific address, just your general location.

 

East Tn mountains.. Thanks everyone for the input and help.
I may have payed a little to much. Goin to try to get it started this week.

 

You need to go into the control panel, "User CP" and insert your location in the appropriate box. It will then show up in all of your posts in the upper right hand corner. Some people probably think I'm a nag about this subject but it really helps to know where a poster is located. As I stated above location plays an important role in answering a lot of questions. Also, there may be someone close to you that will be more willing to help out if they know you're close by.

 

I will tip-toe into this thread because I have an F3 to F1 project.
Click on the link at the bottom of this post.
just for the heck of it.

I know some of you fine folks out there are like...

I will say, it's alot easier to restore something than it is to reinvent.
I feel like I am building a toy from scratch somedays. And it is time consuming.
Hopefully worth it in the end, for me. Not financially, but in challenge/fun factor.

 

Jeff, I have always thought it was a lot easier to do a modified vehicle. Mainly because you don't have to search around for the "correct" part. If a part like a hood hinge is needed you can find something else that will work. You can use parts from a newer vehicle, which are easier to get, or even use miscellaneous hardware from the local hardware store to make the part. With a stock build you have to look around to try to find the one part that will work and usually pay a good price for it. It can take forever to find that one part. I try to use only original parts on my trucks but I've also made my own parts, I'm not a perfectionist with my trucks. It's more important to me to drive them than to show them.

I can also see how building something not stock can be a challenge because you basically have to re-engineer a part to make it fit but that's half the fun. If it doesn't turn out perfect you can usually either tweek it to make it look good and work or go back to the local auto parts or hardware store to get a new part. That's especially convenient on a weekend, especially on Sunday afternoon when you're trying to get on part of your build done. With my trucks if I need a stock part and it's Sunday afternoon I'm pretty much stuck and if I'm lucky I might be able to get the part the next day but usually I have to order it, even for the simpliest part, and wait for it to come in. That's why I have a small inventory of extra parts, or the "junk pile" as my wife calls it. The "junk pile" has been a great source of replacement parts over the years.

 

I see your point for sure, as I haven't experienced that "original part" dilemma,
on these old trucks. You are correct on the fun factor in the fabrication too.
Thanks for bringing this up. I think I am suffering from cabin fever!
I also have to admit...my stepson, buying the '66 Mustang...sitting in MY driveway...I am a little frustrated...will my truck ever get on the road....
He just signs a paper and gets in and drives....

edit: I am proud of him being able to do that, don't get me wrong.

 

I have sworn I am never going to do another car or truck again that needs major work. The next vintage vehicle I buy will only need this tool to get it back on the road:

 

I made my F3 into an F1. I used an IRS out of a 1995 T-bird and only had to cut my frame on the back since it did not have to be where the original rear end was located.

 

I did the search and I see now what you are talking bout. I went to look at the wheels/tires and the tires say 700x17 but the wheels are one piece.?

Thanks again for all the input and quick response. Thanks Jeff for posting info bout ur build thread. I have been reading it and find it very helpful.