its not that, thats not where you are suppose to weld! I would like to see how that ended up when he put in D!

 

That was sarcasm, Sheldon.

 

Same thing with the picture!!

 

OI! im not good with sarcasm.

 

I tried to put an emotiocon in my post and couldn't figure out how, Darn stupidphone.

 

You are correct, but there is a Lunchbox (aussie) locker for the Ford 8.8: Aussie Locker XD-48831 Ford 8.8 31 Spline-Made In USA - Lockers - Aussie Lockers - Welcome to Torq Masters Home of the Aussie Locker

 

I did this on a front 60 in a 79 f350. It would jerk the steering wheel out of your hands if more than slightly turned. It is very scary to drive. I never took mine to the pavement, but on hard pack and gravel, with 235/85 r16 tires, it would always pull the wheel out of your hands. If you do this, and i wouldn't if I were you, get a big steering wheel and keep your hands outside of it. You won't like it and I doubt it will even help that much.

 

Yeah, no welding the front. As another posted, I had a spool (mini-spool) in the rear of a 4x4 mostly street driven with Super Swamper's and loved it. Never noticed much wear and only chirped cornering under acceleration. Just please don't weld the front, maybe the rear with the right type of weld. At least you might just need to swap out a r&p.

 

Welding the front is NO BUENO!

You do not need BIGGER tires to gain traction, maybe just more aggressive tires. Maybe you could make the same run with the same tires again, but air down a good bit and see how that goes. Air is cheaper than tires/lockers/welding rods.

 

Wow, you guys are wusses.
Breaking stuff on the trail is a given. I never went off road without expecting something to break.
I've had lockers and LSD, detroits; and welded, arb and spools and damn near every imaginable way of getting traction to all the tires.

First, welding or a spool in the rear BARELY wears the tires. If you keep both tires aired up so they are the same height, no wear will happen (along with no pulling to one side)
I've towed 26000 lbs with a Detroit locker, and guess what, on high stress, high loads, it does not unlock around corners unless you coast.
Second, don't waste your money on an LSD of any type, it will fail when you need it the most every time, on ice, high load on one side, or when you're trying to turn out of some ruts. Unless its a tar baby or a tow rig or in the front where you just want something extra.
Third, welded diffs are only as strong as the welder is experienced. I prefer to weld the side gears to the spiders. It's common material and machined steel, not cast steel like the carrier. Then its as strong as the center pin, with no strength loss from the weld effecting the heat treating of the carrier.
Fourth, if its a trail rig, weld the front. I have one truck that's got a d44 straight axle and 40s. It's got a welded front, and I run it with one hub unlocked so I can turn, then when shtf I lock in the other hub and open up a can of whoopass with zero regret of the possible consequences. If its a street truck dd or you're a wuss, weld the front anyway. How often do you drive in 4x4 on the street that's dry. And if you have a snow storm, only lock in 1 hub and you'll never know.

 

Arb in front or ox or open them are the best options

 

This is a truck some college buddies and I threw together in a few weekends (build is sorta documented on my website)
Was a 3/4 ton frame with 351 and 1/2 ton body that was a 300-6 lariet.
I put a carbd 460 and 4spd in it along with an np208.
350 gears welded rear and open front. With 40" tires.
460 revs to 6000 rpm and breaks both engine mounts, cab mount, body bolt, throws ps belt a few times before the pump dies, and clutch is giving up and can't get it into 1st or 2nd so its 3rd and once 4th gear take off.

This mud hole was the "fun stopper" for the guys who went riding, because everyone got stuck. This was my first time on this trail and they figured they could trick me into going in. Haha, don't mess with someone who has nothing to lose... Truck was built to be broke, but it made it out of the woods under its own power that day. Few things needing work, but it made it out.
I miss offroading.

 

I agree.
The two best front diffs in my opinion are the truetrac and arb.
Best rear depending on useage, Detroit locker, electrac (LSD and full lock) or truetrac, along with spool/weld if you're on a budget.

I've had a welded rear in my ranger for 10 years. It's never worn the tires funny.
I had an arb in the rear of a truck, and a jeep, wasted money. Get the elec trac instead. (Get the LSD/ locked combo one)
I ruined a powertrax in less than a month of street and trail abuse. Never buy one of those again.

 

You guys have helped out a ton!!! I'm changing my mind now and welding the rear diff. To all saying that I should save up and buy a limited slip diff, I have one in the truck right now and it's worthless!!! So I'm Gona thro a bunch of weld in her real soon!!! And to whom ever said if your on a budget buy a spool or weld her up, I'm on an extreamly tight budget. 17 years old goin to school and doing everything I can to put some money on the tank on the weekends to have fun with the guys. My buddie had a 3/4 ton bow tie and had the rear welded and that thing whent every where and did some mad *** burn outs with our ever failing so I'm going that route. Thanks!!!!

 

If it has a LSD in it already, there is a very likely chance that the clutches in it are burnt up. Get new clutches in it and pack them tighter.