Relatively simple. I made a welded structure and bolted it into the frame. I used 3/8 x 2"bar stock and built it like angle iron except that the corner was open so it wouldn't interfere with the radius inside the truck's frame. That gave a good place to weld into the vee and I ground it to a rounded radius. Haven't looked at the mounts on my IDI, but could tomorrow. Not sure if they are flat or at an angle. Here's what the cummins 6at mounts are like and what I built. Keep in mind this isn't the 6bt like in the dodge. It's the same size as the 223 ford six that came out. You should do a search for my thread from last winter called 'kinda like a hot rod but it isn't hot'. It chronicles the whole process of going diesel. You'll even learn about such things as a 'spurredon tube' for the fuel bypass so common on diesels. Don't miss my youtube video called '59 f350 with cummins 6at'.

 

So are you thinking the weight/torque/hp of the 7.3l is too much for a stock f100 frame? Would there be any way to strengthen the frame? I measured the two frames (the 59 and the 87) where the transmission cross members are and its about 1" difference in width.

 

I'm thinking you are referring to frame depth? The width of the frame channel itself. The thickness has a lot to do with it too. Yeah, I guess I'm saying it could be too light. It would all depend on your intended use. You will need a bunch of extra leafs in the front springs for starters. I have re-engineered my entire truck, made my own drive shaft, crossmember, reconfigured both axles, parking brake converted to the rear drums, on and on......But the bottom line for me is my '92 is what I'll go to when I need a heavy duty truck that will tow 10,000 lbs up my extremely steep gravel road, or carry a similar load down the same hill with safety. So I keep both trucks licensed and in$ured. Had I mounted the fridge cab on the '92, I would have the best of both worlds, and a very well engineered '59' one ton 4x4 diesel with ps, pb (disc front and abs rear), 5 speed zf, not to mention reasonably priced and readily available parts at any local parts store. Since I haven't done any measuring yet, it may be way harder than I think, and for you, shortening the frame is necessary as well. I'm just sayin' what I would consider if I was to start over. I admit this proposed truck would be a 'poser'.

 

The only intended use I will be using it for is to be hauling cars from California and Arizona. Nothing to heavy but definitely want it to be reliable will advertising my business. I will definitely be having to look into the strength of the frame and the cross member. Maybe transfer the cross member from the 87' to the 59' and strengthen the channel of the 59' frame?

 

Ok so after making a couple of calls I think im going to change directions here. I will be in search of a 94-98 cummins diesel. Please correct me if im wrong but the guy I talked to autoworld said that the cummins will out pull and out last the 7.3l I have and be reliable. and that they have kits to convert the 59' to a cummins diesel setup.

He said overall mileage and performance is better on the cummins.

Hopefully this will be the best direction for the 59'

 

I had similar thoughs for your truck. The six would be more accessible, and easier to fit, if it isn't too long. But don't skimp on the frame structure. It's still way heavier than anything Ford had in that engine bay. And the torque has been know to tear a few things up. Boxing the frame would be a good idea. At least in the area of engine mounts and spring shackles, and don't forget the extra leaf springs. I had to add 4 to the front of mine after the swap, and mine is the 6bt's little brother, in a one ton at that. Get out your tape measure. You are going to be needing it!

 

I hate this... And that it is reasonably true. In my experience doing competitive tractor and truck pulls, no v8 diesel will ever out pull the inline 6's. Keep in mind that this is for truck pulls and not down the highway. I couldn't speak to that at all.

I hope my Powerstroke will forgive me for saying that!

 

Admission, is the first step to healing! !

 

Ugh seeing the prices in comparison to the 7.3 is definitely different. I got the whole parts truck for 1k and I'm seeing the 6bt engines going for over 2k. Anyone know where I would be able to get the best deal on a cummins 6bt?
Wondering if I should stick to the 7.3 but 20-25 mpg on the cummins is sure making me want to change.

 

You will not regret going with the cummins - simple & reliable as diesel engines get. You might look at wercked 1st gen dodges. They have the less desirable VE pump motors, but are still easily capable of 500+ HP. The P-pump motors from the 2nd gen trucks are crazy expensive!

 

It is cheaper and is a v8 an sounds like a v8 they are reliable engines every one and there dog puts a kited cummins in there truck the 7.3 motor can be just as powerful it just cost more because not many do that there drive it on the road towing who knows what
So ya cummins is easy to put in and be like the rest or brag about your v8 that's under the hood

 

What I will probably do is start the frame work for the cummins and then get the cummins when its ready to be mounted in there.

For now I am going to sell the complete f350 with the 7.3l and trans/gearvendors.

 

You better hope you're not selling a good running, strong 7.3 and buying a worn out cummins. Since you seem convinced to keep your chassis, I will pass along this info. Once I bought a 2.2 liter toyota (sorry) diesel engine from a wrecking yard to stick in a dead toyota truck I had. The more I investigated, the more expensive, hard to find stuff I needed for the swap. I eventually sold the engine on CL and years later came up with a rusted out toyota diesel truck which of course had the right trans, sensors, switches, pumps etc. for 150.00. Plus I got to hear it run, check the oil pressure etc. If you really want to go cummins, maybe find a entire truck. OR.... just stick with the IDI. We could all go 'round and 'round for weeks about what could be better or cheaper or easier, but there's the old expression "a bird in the hand is worth 2 in the bush". You'd have everything right there. Still think you need to sawzall the floor outa that fridge and get some cab mounts figured out I know Ibuzzard, I'm kind of 'wordy'......

 

Yeah I will be looking for a engine that can be heard running and hopefully driven before I buy it. I heard they aren't to expensive to rebuild if needed though.

 

Keep your IDI Cornbinder. I've fitted the 6bt in my '60 and it's TIGHT. The cummins is a long, tall engine and if you're putting it in a 2wd you will have to section the firewall. Even in a 4wd the engine will have to be mounted quite low in the bay to clear the bellhousing/firewall. Even then you'll be getting creative when it comes time to mount a cooling fan. Probably have to go electric pushers.

Autoworld has done a '59 4wd and I believe they sectioned the firewall. They do not make a bolt in kit for the fridge chassis. I used their crossmember and mounts for mine (a really well built piece btw) but my body is sitting on a '77 F250 4wd chassis and they do make a bolt in kit for that chassis. I still had to cut mine and lower it 2".

I love the cummins engine, I really do but the 7.3 is a great engine too. Add a banks turbo and ARP head studs and you'll be way ahead cash wise plus have an easier time with the conversion.