No, the truck wouldn't start if the TFI module was entirely dead. But all kinds of things can happen between a "good" and "bad" module. IOW while it's dying.

Yes, ~2/3rds of the time they up and die without warning, but that's not always the case. A TFI module can be removed and tested at most parts stores although testing for heat-induced failures requires special procedures not all of them can perform.

Problem can also be a distributor pickup module, a dying coil, a bad connection, etc.....

A "magnetized distributor shaft" sounds like some hocus-pocus BS somebody made up to try and explain something they cannot diagnose or see, kinda like magnets on a fuel line will "break apart clusters of fuel molecules so gas burns more efficiently" even though fuel molecules aren't magnetic.

 

Speaking of the TFI module in this case it is called the Ignition Control module (ICM) and is Black in color. The Black ICM very seldom goes bad and is not mounted on the distributor any more. If someone put a gray one on it is the wrong one and you need to put a Black one back on but that is not your current problem.

 

Bill,
His truck requires black because it's a 95 ? , grey for 93? I also have no spark and am hunting test specs .
ed

 

Yes his 1995 takes a Black (CCD) ICM because it is a 1994 or newer.
A 1993 takes a Gray (push-start) ICM.

 

Bill,
which pins on distributor should I test ?
Ed

 

My truck does have a map sensor because it's a sd truck hence I replaced it. The ICM on the fender well is black and looks pretty clean and new. My entire ignition outside the distributor was all replaced with motorcraft goods except for the wires which are ford racing and the plugs which are autolite copper tops gaped to .44. He plugged the proper adapter in his snap-on computer and has run three back to back computer test were it revs the truck up and down and makes you push the gas and such. I think I would trust a 10000 dollar computer over a 30 dollar one but hey that's just my opinion. It did pick up a fault for the egr on the second run but the new vacuum line I put in wasn't put back on and fixed the code as soon as I plugged it back in. Still run likes a bag of crap with same symptoms.

 

Absolutely YES !!!!!

Spend the 1/2 hour or so pulling the computer out and see if there's any leaking capacitors/cold solder joints/burnt components.

I'm bettin' this is where your problem is.

Bob

 

I'm going to upload some pictures when I get home today of the computer. I'm thinking your right about the computer Bob because there we're some burnt round capacitor things if that's what you were referring to. I'm going to man up and drop the dough on the dunne-right maf conversion kit with-in the hour and see if I can get it next week. 8 brand new injectors and a complete kit for 945 dollars shipped to Canada isn't a bad deal if you ask me. I might be the first one on this site to use the dunne-rite kit so maybe I could do a review as well. I'm thinking I might as well grab a new distributor as well but not quite sure which one to get.

 

More expensive don't always mean it's better.

Daisy Pumpmaster BB gun, about $30.

Gamo Silent Cat, about $180.

Guess which one shoots better out of the box?

Yeah I know this is about electronics, but just trying to make a point.

Various forum members here have used the engine light flash counting method for years, and it has worked without fail as long as they counted the flashes correctly and knew how to interpret the codes. Try it the old school way and let us know what you get.

I don't know about OBD I, but with OBD II there are some manufacturer-specific codes that a generic scanner won't read. You said your buddy installed the correct module in his scanner, but that code description don't even sound valid. To me, engine/balance refers to a cylinder imbalance test, which he may have done but that ain't what you're after.

You just want the base codes that were set during cruise under normal conditions, not while running a test.

 

Now that the computer has been identified as having "because there we're some burnt round capacitor things", any and all of the codes don't mean squat.

The computer HAS to be repaired or replaced before any VALID trouble codes can be pulled and addressed with whatever code reader is used.

Bob

 

Sorry you are correct he did run the balance test and that's we're it said unbalanced after. He also scanned for codes and all that came up was an egr fault which was a simple fix by plugging in the vacuum line (stupid me) but that didn't change how it ran. Some old stored codes we're a map sensor and egr fault but the map was replaced two months ago and the egr was just that stupid line.

 

Hehehe... he beat me to the post button and I didn't realize his puter was all burnt up.

 

I am assuming OBD-I here.

This procedure is even listed in the Ford factory shop manuals for use when a code reader isn't available.

Actually, I should say "these procedures" because not only can you count blinkenlights on the dash, one can also count blinkenlights of a Test Light or sweeps of an analog meter.

It has little to do with trusting a $10,000 code reader over a $30 one, and more with the procedures used than anything.

Yes, one will generally need to goose the throttle, sometimes also step on the brakes and/or turn the steering wheel half a turn.



There are three basic tests, two of which are performed during one procedure, the third by itself. All tests need to be done with the engine warmed up to operating temperature.

KOEO - Key On, Engine Off - Tests the basic connectivity to the sensors and computer inputs and verifies all sensors are producing results within their normal ranges.

CM - Continuous Memory - This retrieves codes the computer has stored from the previous N operating cycles. (I forget the value of N but seem to recall something around 30 to 50).

These codes are displayed directly after the KOEO test, the two tests are separated by a single flash (blink) surrounded by a certain amount of time, if using the count-the-blinkenlights method. I have no idea how code readers handle this, I would expect this wonderous, expensive reader to be able to do it but, again, procedures used and not getting confused are important. I've watched Parts Store kids bumble around trying to perform these tests and interpret the results, it's laughable sometimes.

KOER - Key On, Engine Running - The computer performs some basic diagnostic procedures - raises & lowers the RPM, for example - and reports the results. This test is also where one will sometimes be prompted to goose the gas pedal, etc.

Yes, sometimes there is also a Cylinder Balance test, 1995 I'd imagine would have such a test available but I've never done one and don't know the procedures.

If the Code Reader is talking about that, I'd imagine it's wanting to step you through the test and maybe you need to follow the directions?

The order that codes appear is important as is from which of the three tests they appear, diagnostic procedures in the books are sometimes different depending on the engine, its calibration, do certain other codes also show up or not, etc. It's not as simple as merely extracting some code number and replacing a sensor.

The Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnostics manual has all of the information & procedures needed, the used ones are often pretty cheap on eBay and such.

1995 Ford OBD1 Engine/Emissions Diagnosis Manual Original

 

Deleted Deleted

 

You would need to test the PIP pin.
Is there a thread some place that you have started?
If not you need to start a thread or email me.
Unplug the PCM Computer and see if the spark returns.