electric fan
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Freshman User
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electric fan
I have done some research and it seems like if I install an electric fan assy. on my truck that it would be the most efficient way to cool the engine,and get better gas mileage,and more horse power.Any feedback on this issue?
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From: South Texas
I've been thinking about doing the same thing myself. there is a lot of good information on line about certain things to keep in mind.
make sure that you measure your current radiator. the new fan will need to cover at least 70% of the surface area. other wise there won't be sufficient cooling.
also have you decided between a pusher(one mounted in front of the radiator) or a puller(one mounted in the back). They do sell units that can do either-or but you would need to reverse the wiring. it's all based on the application you want.
here's a good video:
right now the switch is towards the end of my priority list.
tells us what truck you got and why the switch
make sure that you measure your current radiator. the new fan will need to cover at least 70% of the surface area. other wise there won't be sufficient cooling.
also have you decided between a pusher(one mounted in front of the radiator) or a puller(one mounted in the back). They do sell units that can do either-or but you would need to reverse the wiring. it's all based on the application you want.
here's a good video:
right now the switch is towards the end of my priority list.
tells us what truck you got and why the switch
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 81
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I have had an electric fan on my truck for close to two years. Mine is wired incorrectly as it is on when my key is on. (12v switched). I never overheat even when pulling 6k lbs for extended periods nor when we drive on the beach and related trails. The correct way to install is with. A "thermostat" an electrical probe that you slide into the fins of the radiator. They are less than 20 bucks at Autozone. If you would like I can get the part number when I work Friday night. If you have any questions let me know
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From: Virginia
They take a lot of juice to run, so make sure your electrical system is up to it. You also need to tie it into the A/C system if you have one so it will function properly when you are using air.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Sheffield, AL
Alternator = 60 amps
Headlights [2 @ 60 watts] = 10 amps
Blower [high] = ~25 amps
A/C clutch = (?) 5 amps
Other lights = (?) 3 amps
Factory radio = (?) 2 amps [If you have an aftermarket unit with an amplifier, it will be higher!]
If these figures are anywhere near correct, there is only ~ 15 amps available. From what I've read, some electric cooling [radiator] fans draw more than that. You might want to use the search feature and read about the 3G alternator upgrade.
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Electric cooling fan
Thanks guys for all the information.I have a 1981 F-150,302,2BBL,AOD Trans,Air Conditioner,everything is stock.I just had the engine rebuilt to stock,and also the transmission.I am going to put a Tranny cooler on it because I do tow a camper,and also I have a slide in camper that I haul.I am looking for ways to increase horse power and fuel efficiently.I dont have any problems with over heating.I seem to understand that an electric fan would help in that reguards.I also am thinking about headders.I really dont want to make a hot rod out of the truck,but I want to add horse power and fuel milliage from bolt on equipment,so if anyone would tell me the best route to go,I would HIGHLY APPRICATE it.Thank you all for your help..
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
For your situation, an electric fan won't make a perceivable difference and would be a waste of time & money.
Engines from this era suffer from low compression and retarded ignition & valvetrain timing, best way to fix that is with a straight-up timing set, different cam and different pistons.
For towing & hauling like you do, best thing for you is a 351W (not to be confused with the 351M that was offered in 1981, but the W(heezer) variant used in 1982-3+).
An M-block can be a good engine if built correctly but the stock build suffers from the same problems I mentioned above.
Engines from this era suffer from low compression and retarded ignition & valvetrain timing, best way to fix that is with a straight-up timing set, different cam and different pistons.
For towing & hauling like you do, best thing for you is a 351W (not to be confused with the 351M that was offered in 1981, but the W(heezer) variant used in 1982-3+).
An M-block can be a good engine if built correctly but the stock build suffers from the same problems I mentioned above.
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Might investigate what a 4V manifold & proper headers would do for you... pay attention to tube diameter and short vs. long tubes.
I know the 302 in cars is best at higher RPMs, not sure about the truck 302. In general, for trucks, you want torque down at lower RPMs and not horsepower at higher RPMs.
While rebuilding your engine would have been the perfect time to do the changes listed above.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Northern California
I think you would be happier with a clutch fan upgrade.
Wouldn't have to upgrade the electrical system, and if you use a Thermostatic clutch fan, it will only use horsepower when your engine needs the extra cooling.
I did this with my 300-6 almost a decade ago and gained Horsepower and slight MPG improvement.
Wouldn't have to upgrade the electrical system, and if you use a Thermostatic clutch fan, it will only use horsepower when your engine needs the extra cooling.
I did this with my 300-6 almost a decade ago and gained Horsepower and slight MPG improvement.
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