Been a long time since I have posted anything.
I was raised on a farm and like the look of the old farm truck but dependability of a newer truck with maybe a little less maintenance. I like the old just rolled of the farm look but have more respect for the long gone individuals who built these trucks to let it rust away so rust repair will be completed with maybe a clear coat to protect.
I have a 59 short bed which I would like to have as a daily driver when completed. At first I thought keep it original 223 with 4speed, then 351w with C6 (which I have setting in the shop) then, Crowne Vic swap, then back to original.
Since I got another 18 months before I can get home to work on the old gal now is a good time to ask questions and figure exactly what I want to do.
I like the inline 6 engines with a manual trans, latest thought, 300 6 with a M5OD trans
A stock 300 6 would give me around the same HP as the old 223 and easy access to Power steering /ac brackets better access to replacement parts. A proven reliable engine with assuming better fuel mileage and good lower end torque.
M5OD trans would have that Overdrive around .70 (if I remember), the right year would have the hydraulic clutch so I could find the correct bore and stroke for a new Master.
With the intake/exhaust being on the right side of the engine would leave room for a power brake set up.
If I got a wrecked truck with the combo I would know what rear end ratio to match it with....

Has anyone thought of going down this road? Pros/Cons

 

I like the idea of the swap to a 300-6; kind of unique. They are a pretty torque-y motor, and readily available from lots of late 80's & early 90's F150"s. If you could get the entire truck, you'd even have the option of fuel injection. If you go with the crown vic for IFS, you might as well use the 4.6 motor as well. I have heard this makes the ride & drive much more comfortable, and there's lots of info on the swap.

 

I was thinking stock suspension keep the original look. Yes, I did think of the fuel injection as well would help fuel mileage and throttle response not that I'm too concerned about the latter. Until you popped the hood a person might think it was original, throw in the power steering (Toyota gear box) and A/C might be a right comfortable ride with the old solid axle ride. I'll be retiring from the Coast Guard after 32 years in about 16months thought this set up would be unique... I don't get in much of a hurry any more or less somethings on fire.

As a daily driver I drove an 84 Chev S-10 (sorry about the language) 4-cylinder/4-speed 2-wheel drive for years 30 MPG never got in a hurry.

 

I'm out of my depth on 6 cylinder and more modern engines but...

If the primary objective is a daily driver" then I don't think any of the options are bad. While the 351 and 300 will certainly be easier to find parts when needed, a properly built vintage engine, such as a 223 will be just as reliable and as long as no corners are cut, this may not be a practical concern. You can always build up a spare parts stash. For comparison, I've been daily driving a Y-Block for the past 20 years, all year round, hot, cold, rain, snow. It has been at least as reliable as my newer 1988 Firebird (all GM jokes aside, it has been a great car). I would not recommend relying on an old vehicle as an only source of transportation, no matter the condition because there are always going to be problems to fix which aren't always going to be quick, easy, or cheap.
For the 223 route, I would look into modernizing the ignition and carburetor and if primarily for cruising, maximize compression, for premium fuel, for better economy, which will happen to come along with performance.

Pros of swapping:
Easier to find parts, more aftermarket upgrade options, more transmission options, maybe better reliability, maybe better economy

Cons:
Potentially expensive. Chassis mounting needs to be revised, plumbing, wiring, throttle and transmission related linkage. Can you do it yourself? Do you have to pay a shop to do it? If you have to pay a shop, can you handle fixing things they may not do quite right? I don't know about you but any time I have had to let a shop work on my vehicles, I always have to go back and correct things, if not do the whole job over when it is more convenient.

Pros of keeping 223
No or very few changes are required to be made. Possibly equal or better economy but maybe not..

Cons:
Possibly more expensive for the equivalent functionality of a swap because rebuild parts will probably cost more and transmission swaps will cost more although these could be balanced out by the con of the swap.

On the subject of economy, unless there is some significant deficiency in the design of the 223, I would not expect it to be much different than a more or less equally built newer engine. because it is the same basic design, which is a pushrod 4 stroke engine. For instance, V8s didn't start making significant improvements until the mid 80s, when the roller cam came around and they finally started to figure out how to deal with emissions. Before that, a small block really wasn't very efficient, compared to something from the 50s - in part due to the emissions requirements but also because it is just a 4 stroke pushrod engine, basically the same fundamental design.

 

He come get a full parts truck with the 300 / M5OD from the 90's and have every thing needed to do the swap.
From 87 on the 300 was EFI and to try and take everything from said parts truck and make the factory Ford EFI work is not how I would do it.
The EFI head will take the non-EFI manifolds so you can run a carb if you want.
The EFI blocks did not have the fuel pump hole machined but I hear the bolt holes where drilled & threaded.

In 83 the F trucks running the 300 six used a feed back system, computer controlled the carb & timing.
If 1 of any of the sensors went bad it went in to limp and carb went rich and timing was locked and was a dog.
If you did not have smog check you could run a earlier carb & dist. and be fine.

If you can find a log intake run it but you the EFI exh manifolds they flow better.
If you cant find a intake then after market would work.
With either intake manifold Holley makes a bolt on EFI.
One will bolt to the factory intake where the Carter YF bolted to.
The after market intakes will be for v4 carbs but with adapter you could run the Holley v2 EFI.

Now back to that parts truck with a 300 with EFI / M5OD.
I would use the motor / trans, clutch slave & master (the M5OD is a juice clutch) , frame mounts as you might be able to use them.
Some of the later M5OD do not have a hole for a speedo cable.
I think the throttle cable will be to long from the EFI but a cable from 80 to 86 may work. Think your truck uses linkage?
Use the throttle pedal from the EFI truck with the mid 80 cable may work.

You may be able to use the rear axle so you have the right ratio with the OD trans.
I would also take the drive shaft for the trans yoke but if you swap rear axles the rear yoke would work but may need to make longer or shorter.
Your truck uses drum brakes, get the master & booster and swap on front disc. and you now have a good brake system.

I would go with a 300 six over the 223 as it is a newer motor and think easier to get parts for when needed.
Guys that have swapped in a M5OD like them a lot, they shift really smooth.
Good luck with your build project
Dave ----

BTW there is more information in the 80 -86 area on the 300 six and swapping in M5OD and what to look for.

 

Gentlemen I appreciate your thoughts and comments.
I know driving these old trucks it's not really about fuel mileage but I figured with the EFI route it might be a little better and with the fuel prices these days.... I'm not sure what a stock 300, M5OD get s compared to a 223 with a 4 speed manual.
Thanks for the info about specific years of the 300. I am not in an area that currently checks emissions but with the way Oregon is going who knows what's going to happen. I will check out the 80-86 area information.
I got sometime before I can get back to this project.

 

Cant help on the MPG of the 223 and 4sp but my 81 F100 flare side with a 300 six, NP435, Advance Adapter Range Splitter over drive, 2.75 rear gear and 235 / 75 / 15 tires avg 15 MPG. That is 40 miles on high way to work at 70 MPH and 40 miles back roads between 45 & 55 MPH with stop lights on the way home.
I am working on getting that higher. I do have a AFR gauge and it runs a little richer than I would like. I have seen 16 MPG a few times just dont know what I did to get that LOL

Some guys have claimed 20's MPG but I think most are around where I am.
Dave ----

 

Are after market power steering, A/C brackets available for the 223?
I know a person can buy a smaller Diameter booster for power brakes are they small enough to fit in there with a 223 intake/exhaust and carbs?

 

Vintage air might have an A/C kit. Don't know about power steering. Keeping things greased helps a lot with steering. I'm about 130lbs and have little trouble with that although there are times when it would make things easier.

Regarding brakes, a properly setup non assist system will work great so an inability to use a booster is definitely not a show stopper and an engine swap may or may not make this easier to overcome. Convert to discs for the front, use good pads - plan to spend probably a minimum of $70 on a set of pads, not the cheapest parts store pads and probably not what comes with a kit. Again, compared to my '88 Firebird, a "sports car," with factory power brakes my truck seems to stop better with roughly equal effort, without power assist and it probably should since the weight is similar and brakes are bigger (typical disc brake swap up front and '68 up 11" x 2 1/4" drums on the rear, nothing fancy). Note that I have not tested this in any objective way this opinion is based solely on the feel.

 

I've considered the 300/M5OD swap in my '58 as well. Here's what I've learned, which isn't much, but will be a start. You'll have to move the battery as it will be in the way but it clears the firewall on the other side for a power brake booster which, as mentioned above, you probably don't need. I have been told the 302 conversion crossmember/motor mount brackets will work with the 300 and the correct mounts. Not sure about the rear crossmember but that's not a really big deal. Length can be a problem.

When I was driving it a lot, my '58/223/3 speed on the column with 3.73:1 rear ratio used to get around 16 mpg. (local driving, it doesn't like today's highway speeds). Lately I have been considering an M5OD conversion to my 223. There are automatic transmission bellhousing adapters which could be used, I still haven't figured out flywheel and clutch arrangement. Speedometer conflicts can be resolved with available adapters or gps units which can use your original speedometer if desired. AOD or AODE automatic transmissions can be retrofitted to the 223 if that interests you.

Personally, I like the 223. It's a strong engine that, along with its 262 counterpart, served light and medium duty trucks very well until the 240/300 came along. I plan on a careful rebuild with a dual carb manifold and maybe a header to make it more drivable. The 223 is definitely not a 300 but it's where the 300 came from. The 7 main bearing bottom end in the 300 makes it almost indestructible.

Lou Manglass

 

I had no idea the 223 would get that good of fuel mileage, my 223 is matched with a 4 speed not sure of the rear end ratio at this time. My 223 had been parked for approximately 20 years prior to acquiring it. I did pour some oil down the cylinders, clean the plugs an replace points and poured some gas down the ceased up carb and had it running. Even though I had it running if I go back with the 223 I will rebuild it.
I hear both you and Charlie about the power brake and will most likely just replace the master with a 2 reservoir master cylinder for a little more safety as well as disc brakes on the front.
When I was 16 I had a 60 short bed with a 292 and a 2 speed automatic but I would rather have a manual trans and the 5 speed would help with those highway RPMs.
Thank you for sharing

 

I had a few 223 engines yrs ago, they did get fairly good mileage.

 

Weren't they called the Milage Maker?

 

Something like that, they were are tough engine as well. A friend has one in his 58 Meteor sedan.

 

Well, its sounding like I will keep it stock. That will save me a bunch of time trying to figure out engine/ trans year...
I did look at Vintage air currently it doesn't look like they have a kit for the refers. They do have a system for the 61-64 with a 6-cylinder and since 223 was available hopefully it will bolt up with the proper brackets.
When I do get back home next year and get to this point, I'll l have to check to see if they have a universal evaporator system that would work.

Thanks again for words of wisdom