like the title says i need brighter headlights and figured if you run hi's and lows together is bright enough but i dont want to burn up any thing.

 

Aftermarket companies have an easy solution, if that's what you want.

Click

 

Running both filaments of a single bulb just doesn't seem like a good idea

 

Have the brite box with fog light adder works great.
Just dont up grade your bulbs might melt stuff

 

Be aware that it's illegal on a public road.

 

Are you running this to William???

Highs & Lows & Fog with your HID Lights all at once???

 

its just for those back country roads at 4am going to work. nobody around and i dont want to spend $200 on a bunch of lights to mount on the front.

 

There's a way to run your fogs and high beams at once, That makes a big difference just messing with a single wire:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...info-here.html

 

Brite box. Search dfuser, he will sell you one. It allows the driving lights to be on with high and low beam. They normally turn off when you go to hi be am. Also, when on high beam, it runs both filaments in the H13 bulb, low and high together. It works really good, add a sylvan ultr bright or a PIAA and you are getting good lighting for the price of one light.

I have been using this for 4 years, never a burnt out bulb. Also, I run high beam bulbs in my driving lights. Wattage isn't an issue, as the harness you get powers off the passenger battery and the main lights off the drivers, it's simple plug and play.

I also have a light bar with two 190 and two 270 loghtforce running 75 watt and 100 watt bulbs off auxiliary 1 and 2. This gives even better lighting for night driving on our remote highways where the moose are commonly hit on a regular basis. Our moose are large enough to total my SD and it's not uncommon for them to go inside a vehicle and kill occupants. This brite box is a less expensive solution than the light force lights but I can't see near as far. I am seeing about two miles on a straight road. The high beams don't go any farther with the brite box but it does fill out the whole oriels of vision with lots of light.

 

ill check into the brite box. its not really the distance I'm looking for its the light output. I added the Sylvania ultra brights and on low they are bright but on high beams they shine far but less light in front of the truck. but when you pull the lever back it flashes the lows and highs together which is way brighter

 

Put the sylvania equivalent high beams in your driving lights and the brite box sounds like it would work really good for you. I do turn off the driving lights if I don't need them, and I beam down when there is oncoming traffic. It has worked well for me. Dfuser sent mine in 5 days and I am a whole country away. He also sent me a new bracket for my coolant filter kit cause it cracked (free) and some new filters at the same time. Good service and the products are well made, the wiring harness and coupling were all weather tight and well constructed.

 

Ok Guys as I said I would not add higher wattage bulbs if you are planning to use the B/B and here is why constant (at least an hour) use will melt the top of the headlamp assembly just enough for the reflector to come loose and fall off to the bottom of the headlight assembly.
Been there done that.

Right side was the first to go assembly replaced last fall after deer hit left side fell off back in December. thought it was the deer hit that made if fall off but after looking at it closley you can visibly see the plactic slot that the reflector slides in to melts a bit then seperates lets the reflector fall out eventually.
Here is a link to the manufacturers of the brite box page click for brite box faq after the warning for more detail.
Innova Design & Distributing, Inc. - The Brite Box, Bulbzilla / Fogzilla, Diesel Turbo Lifesaver, Eclipse Sun Shade

That said I still use mine and would not be without it but with OEM type bulbs

 

I looked at the Brite Box site and it seems that it is not compatible with day-time running lights, which are legally required in Canada. Not having them is pretty obvious. It would have to be pretty simple to use one of the upfitter switches to turn on the low beam filament all the time so they are on when high beams are on - switching to low beams when required would just have the low beams fed from two sources. Low beams would be on all the time that the truck is on and the switch is on, but I am pretty sure that the upfitter switches are de-powered when ignition is off, so you would not be leaving your headlights on by accident. This may be an idea for some to chase. Using one of the 30 amp upfitter switchs would not even require an extra relay - just a few feet of wire.

Another thought - this lets you run both headlight beams somewhat legally - you can turn the low/high combo off with a simple dash switch so you can legitimately claim it's an off-road modification.

Brian

 

Not compatible with DRL's????

http://innovadd.com/bb.app.guides/bb.apps.ford.html

Anybody try the Bubzilla thing for fog lights yet?

 

This chart: The Brite Box - Headlight Performance

Most of the Ford truck ones and the 2005 F250 in particular it specifies W/O DRL, which I took to mean without DRL. Probably what happens is when the DRL is on (all the time that the headlights are switched off), you get both high and low beans on. Your link definitely indicates there is an option.