2007 Ford Expedition with 85,000 miles - family vehicle mainly driven by DW. Original brakes but now getting some shaking when braking from high speeds (off the interstate). Kind of a wobble in the seat rather than the steering wheel. I've never done a pad and rotor job but it doesn't look to be overly complicated on the videos and instructions I have watched. I'm trying to figure out if it's best to research the best pads and rotors to put on and pull this off myself or if it would be a better choice to take it to a Firestone, Midas or Brakes Plus locally and have them do this fast? I'm also trying to figure out if resurfacing the rotors is a good way to go (especially with 85K miles) or if it would be better to just put new ones on for a little more cost and use higher quality pads? Input appreciated.

 

I'm lucky as I live close to:

Carroll's Brake Service

An old-time BRAKE shop with very fair prices.

The chain outfits, imo, are hit or miss. They often oversell or outright cheat you. If they don't do that, they do the job wrong. If they don't do either, you might get a good job.

As for DIY, the rotors need to be checked for thickness. If they can be turned, turn 'em. If not, buy good quality OEM or aftermarket specialty rotors. Don't buy the least expensive 3rd world castings.....

Good pads, attention to detail on caliper pins etc, and you are good. Bleed them a bit too to clean up the fluid. Since you are not taking the calipers apart, you won't have air to worry about, just flushing the contamination out.

Do your fronts have hats for rotors I hope?

 

I had very similar symptoms as you stated with 40k miles. This is my Wifes DD, and also the family truckster, she is very heavy with both pedals (we're working on it) and we live in very congested suburbia. I just spent $1k at Midas. New lifetime Pads and new Rotors on all four. There were cheaper options available, including cutting the rotors and not changing all the pads. "Lifetime" pads, means I never pay for pads again, just the labor. They included the rotation (wheels were off already) and a oil change. They got it all done in about 3 hours, and no problems with their work as of yet. Good Luck.

 

changed all 4 of mine in under 2 hrs, bought a brakemotive set from ebay, just to see if it would improve my braking. if you have a jack, stands, and some tools, you can easily do it yourself.

you can buy all oem i think for ~500 bucks or less, forgot the exact pricings.

 

RAYOFSI - did you get a kit with all 4 rotors and pads from ebay? Do you remember about what that cost? I have jacks, stands, lots of tools and typically do all of the regular servicing on my trucks (oil, fluids, rotations, filters, etc.) but just haven't ever had to do brakes. I haven't had a truck this long before but we need this one to last a while. Do you have any good resources (videos or instructions) specifically for a 2007 or newer Expedition pad and rotor job? Did you have any problems getting the old rotors off (this seems to be a common problem on most videos I have watched)? Thanks.

 

changed my rotors at 5k miles to try to get better stopping power, so i can't speak to any problems with a new car at 5k miles.

it was easier then you would expect, just screws here and there, as long as you aren't messing with the brake lines, its easy stuff. no videos, i probably found something somewhere.

 

Id do brakes myself, its not that hard with minimal tools.
A good socket set, and a large C-clamp to squeaze the calipers back so they fit over the new pads.


Looking at rotors...

Autozone
============
Front $75 and $125
Rear $64

Rock Auto
=============
Front rangeing from $47- $100
Rear ranging from $29 - $100

Or a complete kit
POWER STOP Part # K4109 Incl. Silver Zinc Plated Cross-Drilled And Slotted Rotors w/Z16 Ceramic Scorched Brake Pads
Front and Rear Sets; Limited; Eddie Bauer; EL XLT; XLT Model; Funkmaster Flex Edition; King Ranch; EL King Ranch; EL Eddie Bauer; EL Limited
$405.79

 

my 08 expedition has a retainer clip that engages both the caliper and bracket. I took it off no problem, how do I get it back on??????

 

At that point in my brake job I had a helper so 4 hands made a big difference. I had to pry the retainer clips pretty hard to get them back on. It's been a few months since I did mine but I do remember trying to lock the retainer clip in at the bottom or top and then holding that down while trying to slide the other half back on. I tapped all locations where the retainer clip made contact with the caliper and bracket to make sure it was in place.

 

If you find a place you can trust, have the rotors turned if they have the thickness left-which they should, the stock are plenty thick.

 

I had significant wobble/shake when braking from high speeds so the brake guys I talked to said I might have had a warped rotor. I ended up getting all Motorcraft OEM parts with free shipping and no tax from amazon for just over $400 - local Ford was over $700 for same parts. I didn't want to take a chance on a possible warped rotor so I spent slightly more for brand new ones. Might be worth a shot online to compare prices before doing either.

 

Read this if you have a few minutes.

-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

 

I agree with the article that these are factors that can cause the physical sensations but, when I personally made numerous offers for the authors to view my rotos that were out of round .10 cold, and expanded to .68 when hot, there as and has been no response.

 

It is a big rig. New calipers, rotors and pads, with your mileage, the way to go every time.

 

Interesting. I believe it's possible for the rotor to get so hot it could distort it's shape. I also believe 99% of all 'warped' rotors are uneven pad material deposit. 'Warped Rotor' is a sales word to get a reaction out of the customer. Our company has had as many as 40 trucks in out fleet. We resurface all rotors when they begin to vibrate or we change pads. If the rotor is beyond it's speced thickness, we get new rotors. We have never had a problem with this system. The mentality that the minute there is some vibration you must replace the rotors is wasteful and unnecessary.

It is similar to someone replacing parts trying to chase down a problem instead of spending some time correctly testing and diagnosing the cause of the problem. 'Check engine light came on. Said 02 sensor. I replaced it. Light came back. I replaced the other sensor. Light came back. I replaced, plugs, cops, filter, light came back'. With testing they would have found a bad fuel injector that ruined the cat also.