I am curious to know how you don't wipe half the loctite off on the injector walls when installing the cups? I mean it is a long way down there with not much wiggle room for the cups. Or do the cups have quite a bit of room when going down the injector hole? I would be tempted to smear some loctite on the head itself around the cup mating areas.

 

Great tips Tug. Just to add 1 thing, the loctite compound that clay carries will not cure where it's open to atmosphere. Atleast that's what I assume from reading the back of the bottle. There was a statement about the air inside the bottle keeps the compound from setting up.

 

During the first couple cups, I really took my time setting the tool in without bumping the sides. Once the tool is set in and bolted down, you screw the cup the rest of the way down.

The last 5-6 cups I wasn't as concerned with, much quicker. The amount of compound that is actually left on the mating surfaces is very small. Nearly all of it is pressed out as the cup seats, then the excess is wiped away.

My .02 anyway.

 

No worries here. It will not hurt anything, since it will never 'cure' without that anaerobic environment. But, don't leave any where and injector o-ring will sit!!! For the same reason, I prefer to use Loctite 545 Thread Sealant on all of my NPT fittings - specifically fuel lines. This product will not set up in fuel and will not clog fuel filters/injectors - unlike typical 'teflon' sealants and tape.

I'd be waaaay more concerned about contaminating the sealant with brake cleaner!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I will admit, your **** retentiveness is quite comical. Thanks again for sharing!!

Correctamundo!!

 

I'm relieved somebody gains something from my affliction.

Given my aversion to hanging family photos and installing plumbing and a fridge under Stinky's hood... can you blame me for going all out on this? I can't even get a bolt to stay in place, unless I do it just right.

Tips: Installing injector cups involves long-winded bolts. I use a cordless drill (and judicious use of the trigger with a wet cup) with a U-joint for the long free-spins up and down. I have a magnetic sheet with all my necessary tools right there to reduce the time it takes to work with a wet cup. 4 mm ball-end T-Allen speeds up the bolt-down and removal of Clay's insertion/removal tools... the 4mm ball-end Allen works even faster when it's a 1/4" hex for my cordless drill. I mist the insertion tool with lube before I put the cup on it and clean the cup. The tool removes easier after insertion and it cleans faster each time. I measured from the head of the insertion bolt to the plate on the first good cup seat. Subsequently measuring the bolt height with each cup prevented me from leaving two cups a little too high while inserting. "Oops... not enough. A couple more pulls on the socket drive ought to do it." They are either all wrong or all right. Wagers?

 

In response to my question during the group part of an oral exam, an examiner once told me: "There are no stupid questions, only stupid people asking questions!"

So with that in mind, I ask: Does the fuel port in the cup have to/should be aligned in any particular direction to prevent cavitation or to be more efficient or whatever?

 

Tug, I saw that drill being used and I really want to get one for my drill. My wager is they are all going to be fine.

Tim, I'm not sure what you're referring to. The cups are symmetrically round and have no additional features. The fuel port in the head is above where the cup seats. This may help.

 

Not a stupid question, doing cups is one thing im dreading when the time comes....trying to read up, and thought the same thing..

 

And Jeff already answered haha

 

Hmmm..... The coolant not only surrounds the cup (which I knew), it's in contact with the exhaust port wall. That explains how getting up to highway speed instantly turns my "heater" into a blast furnace. I'm curious if I can find a bigger copy of this image... or other useful images regarding cups.

Valentine weekend. Let's see if I can get Stinky ready for a road trip and address a few letters of the alphabet. The wife and I are anxious to cross that TLN off the list.

 

I think I have the link bookmarked. I'll check.

 

How the PowerStroke injection system works

 

Thanks for posting all the information about Stinky.

I have a similar problem with my PSD this will help me troubleshoot and repair as necessary.

Hope you have cured Stinky of her bad habits.

Thanks again.

 

I'll watch for the thread. Orrrr... did you get the 6.0 you were looking at?

 

With what little time I had, Stinky passed the air test. I'm going to put coolant in tonight for one more pressure test... but first I had to address one of the symptoms of a broken cup.