360 Questions
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
What is your budget? Typically, more money means better quality. Look for at least 14g tubing and 5/16-inch thick flanges.
Low buck - Flowtech, Hedman
Mid range - Hooker
Upper - Sanderson
Anything will ceramic coating will cost more but last longer. Painted headers usually bubble, flake, and start rusting in a few months. If going low buck, strip off the stock paint which seems more or less to prevent rust while sitting on the store shelf. Use a high-temp paint from Duplicolor, Rustoleum, or VHT.
Mid-length FE headers from Sanderson (PN427), ceramic coated with 3/8-inch flanges:
Low buck - Flowtech, Hedman
Mid range - Hooker
Upper - Sanderson
Anything will ceramic coating will cost more but last longer. Painted headers usually bubble, flake, and start rusting in a few months. If going low buck, strip off the stock paint which seems more or less to prevent rust while sitting on the store shelf. Use a high-temp paint from Duplicolor, Rustoleum, or VHT.
Mid-length FE headers from Sanderson (PN427), ceramic coated with 3/8-inch flanges:
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 0
I used to have a 360 also before the block cracked. I still love my F.E.s ! The 360 just gets flack cuz the 390 made a lil more power will drinking..or should I say hammering..down as much fuel. The 399 conversion is pretty much the crank..rods/pistons. Since you're probably gonna cam it..you may have to wait on the rods to see what the cam manufacturer recommends for length etc.
I just rebuilt and cammed a 300/6. Put in a complete comp cams kit. It's all in one kit..valves..springs..keepers..valveguides..gears. .cam..break in lube..etc. they have awesome customer support too. I hear a lot of the Fe guys like using their stuff too.
When I was looking at buying a cam..several names/manufacturers came up such as Comp..Isky..voodoo. So..decide how you would like the truck to run and give a company a call ale they'll recommend a cam/grind that will be ideal for your engine setup and use
I just rebuilt and cammed a 300/6. Put in a complete comp cams kit. It's all in one kit..valves..springs..keepers..valveguides..gears. .cam..break in lube..etc. they have awesome customer support too. I hear a lot of the Fe guys like using their stuff too.
When I was looking at buying a cam..several names/manufacturers came up such as Comp..Isky..voodoo. So..decide how you would like the truck to run and give a company a call ale they'll recommend a cam/grind that will be ideal for your engine setup and use
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 34,475
Likes: 2,800
If you get the flat top 390 pistons, you may be at 10 or 10.5--not so good with iron heads and 91 octane gas.
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Junior User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas
Alright I'm going to give comp a call tomorrow or so.
Hmm what compression do you recommend for a truck that will see just as much mud/dirt and pavement? Or do those conditions matter?
Sorry for all the questions guys just want to be educated before I start making calls
Hmm what compression do you recommend for a truck that will see just as much mud/dirt and pavement? Or do those conditions matter?
Sorry for all the questions guys just want to be educated before I start making calls
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 34,475
Likes: 2,800
Dirt and mud, and road travel--you are probably safe with 9.5.
Ford lowered the compression as they figured many of these trucks would be towing or heavily loaded with lots of loaded WOT running. If you are not pulling max loads up mountain passes, go with the higher compression.
Ford lowered the compression as they figured many of these trucks would be towing or heavily loaded with lots of loaded WOT running. If you are not pulling max loads up mountain passes, go with the higher compression.
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Junior User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 89
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From: Las Vegas
Sweet got a couple weeks before this plan is put in motion haha.
Another question for you about breathing. Truck passed smog and has stock exhaust but it will be replaced from headers back. I am in school in Flagstaff where there is no smog/ emissions if I take everything but the headers off, with these new parts, will she breathe breather and have enough back pressure?
Another question for you about breathing. Truck passed smog and has stock exhaust but it will be replaced from headers back. I am in school in Flagstaff where there is no smog/ emissions if I take everything but the headers off, with these new parts, will she breathe breather and have enough back pressure?
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2004
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Back pressure should not be an issue.
What kind of smog inspection will you be subjected to? You may not have it now, but perhaps later.... Usually, headers don't pass a visual unless they are OK'd. CA has a process for that, not sure about your state.
If you are sniffer only, you will be fine.
What kind of smog inspection will you be subjected to? You may not have it now, but perhaps later.... Usually, headers don't pass a visual unless they are OK'd. CA has a process for that, not sure about your state.
If you are sniffer only, you will be fine.
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Junior User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas
Alright
For flagstaff there is no inspection at all and for Nevada I already passed a visual and sensor test. That is good for a year but since the truck will be in flagstaff I wouldn't have to worry about it. Only thing is noise but people let these classics slide haha B).
What else should be done to a camper special sport custom trim so it can handle being subjected to trails
For flagstaff there is no inspection at all and for Nevada I already passed a visual and sensor test. That is good for a year but since the truck will be in flagstaff I wouldn't have to worry about it. Only thing is noise but people let these classics slide haha B).
What else should be done to a camper special sport custom trim so it can handle being subjected to trails
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 117
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From: Atlanta, GA
Doing a simliar build...
Ended up in this thread because I am about to pull the trigger on shorty headers. I am not going the long tube route because it seems there's no shortage of fitment issues.
I have been looking at the Sanderson's. The price is right with ceramic coating. I am just a little leery of the weld bead/RTV/no gasket seal at the heads. Anyone have any feedback on good/bad?
I am also seriously considering a set of Stan's Tri-Y headers. Supposed to make great low end power and are very well made. However at $534 for raw finish, and add $200 for me to get them ceramic coated locally (cheaper than Stan's price), they become a really expensive upgrade.
Headers for Ford, Mustang, Pinto, Bronco, Cougar, Ranger, exhaust parts for home built do it yourself automotive headers.
Ended up in this thread because I am about to pull the trigger on shorty headers. I am not going the long tube route because it seems there's no shortage of fitment issues.
I have been looking at the Sanderson's. The price is right with ceramic coating. I am just a little leery of the weld bead/RTV/no gasket seal at the heads. Anyone have any feedback on good/bad?
I am also seriously considering a set of Stan's Tri-Y headers. Supposed to make great low end power and are very well made. However at $534 for raw finish, and add $200 for me to get them ceramic coated locally (cheaper than Stan's price), they become a really expensive upgrade.
Headers for Ford, Mustang, Pinto, Bronco, Cougar, Ranger, exhaust parts for home built do it yourself automotive headers.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
Long tube headers run right next to the starter and can make it a pita to get starter on and off. I would recommend a starter blanket and/or header wrap and heater shield so the starter does not burn out due to the extra header heat. Never used shorty's but I've heard there more starter friendly.
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