Do not use tape. It can not hold up to the high voltage that exists under the cap. Use a good, sealing heat-shrink tubing or some silicone. Best to use electronic-grade silicone. If you can't find it, it is also sold to repair aquariums and some fish/pet stores carry it. If you can only get the vinegar-smelling silicone be sure to let it cure well before sealing it under the distributor cap. Also, use a solvent to wash any oil off of the wire first. High voltage doesn't very well tolerate grease, oil, or (tape) adhesive residue. A clean cap and rotor is a happy cap and rotor.

 

Thank you , that is the advice I was looking for. I thought about heat shrink tubing but did not know if heat shrink would have sufficient insulation properties. Also will heat shrink bend easily so the wires will bend under the cap without causing a problem?

I am thinking I will wait until Monday and go to an electronics store in town here.
thanks, Abe

 

The heat shrink is definitely what you need. Sometimes it is possible to use two layers, though it is generally not necessary.

 

FWIW, consider a dip or spray insulation. Applied sparingly in several coats it remains flexible. I have a can of it that is used for insulating tool handles. A q tip works well for application. I do believe the only things you're trying to accomplish is keeping the exposed conductor from shorting on a metallic part and maintaining flexibility of the wire.

 

Thanks to all for the tips. I also will call Pertronix tech dept on Monday for their advise. I do think the 20 g wire has insulation that is too weak and stretchy, if you know what I mean.

 

Ok, here is an update and a question:

I called the tech dept today at Petronix. I explained the problem. The tech said cover the wire with heat shrink. He said it will provide enough insulation and it will be flexible enough to bend inside the distributor.

My question: the wires are not torn in tow. The insulation is torn. in order to get the heat shrink on the wire I will have to either: 1. cut the wire, 2. slit the heat shrink and slip it on the wire, 3. pull the wires out of the rubber grommet put on the heat shrink and try to thread the wire through the small openings of the grommet.

What is best? I don't want to ruin this $95 piece of electronics!

I think #2 is the safest as far as not messing up the wires more but: will the heat shrink cover the whole wire if it is split in two?

thanks, Abe

 

Maybe I'm not understanding, but why not just replace the wire? Anything else may end up being a temporary fix. I know you had trouble getting the grommet in, but "do it once and do it right" seems to be the way to go. JMO...

 

Abe, splitting the heat shrink is not one of your options. It can't work that way. Not certain I understand your difficulty exactly, but a new wire as Ross suggests, or cut and solder whatever you use back together with heatshrink installed.

 

Grommet would be very hard to get back on. If there's room, cut wires, remove enough insulation to splice, place heat shrink on one end of splice. Solder well with electronics-grade solder. Slip heat shrink over splice. Seal. Repeat for the other wire. Enjoy.

 

Thanks again for the tips.... Today I experimented with a piece of slit heat shrink on a piece of old wire and of course the heat shrink pulled away when heated and did not wrap around the wire....

I think what I will try first is to pull the wire out of the grommett, slip the heat shrink in place, shrink it and then by using a stiffer 20 gauge wire attached to the wires try to pull them thru the grommet.

If that fails then I will remove the grommet and put the wires thru the whole and seal it with silicone.

Thoughts?

 

Are you doing this with the dizzy on the engine, or on the bench? Much easier on the bench, worth the time it takes to pull it out. Some liquid soap will help slide the grommet in or the wires thru the grommet. The silicone works too.

 

I'd recommend that you use absolutely no soap anywhere near high voltage. Trust me. It can leave a conductive film. Bad.
Silicone is fine in moderation. I suspect that they use a cylindrical "shoehorn" to open the grommet when assembling these. They are right tight.

 

Seriously? I wash the plug wires on my drag car in a bucket of hot water and dishwashing soap about once a year. I rinse and dry them of course. Not really doubting what you say. I've just never heard that.

 

I've worked with high voltage for a long time. Outside on plug wires is one thing. Any residual soap film is probably much better than road dirt and grease/oil. Inside the distributor housing itself is quite another. You don't want anything that can lead to ionization and tracking. I've been known to wash fingerprints from my cap and rotor with a residue-free inert solvent (read: "Freon") in years past. Tektronix used to wash oscilloscopes that came in for service but they were careful to keep detergent film away from the high voltage anode cap of the CRTs. I will say that I would never use soap inside my distributor.

 

How about a light coating of petroleum jelly (Vaseline)?

After all this discussion and tips/warnings and knowing how tight the grommet hold the wires, I am thinking now maybe it is best to cut the wires where the insulation is torn, put the shrink tube on and splice the wires... I don't have a solder gun.. will have to see which friend has one to borrow...