Yep, I vote for the coil. I had one once that would work for 30 seconds or so and then the engine would die. Let it cool and it would work again.

 

You mention you've swapped a 4160 for the 4180.

The Motorcraft single terminal choke element is set up to receive ~7.5V from the Stator wire of the alternator. (not really, but this is how the AC will read with the meter set on DC)
All the 4160's I've seen take 12V DC in run and have a separate grounding spade connector, and the choke cap IS polarity sensitive.

If you're using the old power source you may find the choke slow to come off.
You can swap in the 4180's choke cap... and keep the feature of the choke not opening if the engine isn't turning, or you can find a source of 'key on' 12V power.

 

I switched the cap of the 4180 to the 4160 . I am wanting to go to a manual choke control so there is a little bit more control over it and not having to deal with the voltage of the truck messing it up. Do you guys think that would be a wise idea? A new coil is also in the trucks near future

 

I don't like playing with tiny choke adjustments while trying to drive my truck.
Cable bind and slop are an issue too.

Manual is fine for a race vehicle which only needs to have it on for a little bit while warming up at a standstill, but I would choose a well functioning electric or hot air choke in a DD every time.

My 2c

 

I agree with Jim. Having swapped to the 6 volt choke coil you should be set. The only problem I've had with electric chokes is when the alternator quits, and then the choke is the least of your problems.

 

I'm battling with that dilemma Ard. I've decided to run an Edelbrock 1405 because of the supposedly different boosters that are more geared toward performance. Do I get the referb edition 9966 with the electric choke, by the new 1405 with the electric choke kit or just run it manual. Manual is the least expensive and it won't be the first vehicle I've had with a manual choke. My bikes are all manual choke and I deal with that fine. On the CB I judge by oil pressure and the Harley by oil temp. My cars I used to use coolant temp and just an overall feel of how it was running. Not too hard if you pay attention.

Cable bind is a matter of proper routing and slop? Can't say I ever had that problem.

I'm with you though, some form of auto choke is the way to go for set it and forget it use. Fly, if you're worried about voltage issues then you have problems to fix. And it's not the choke. Now there are some that'll gripe about electric chokes and their points are valid to a degree.

Anyway, I'm going manual because there's a real possibility that I'll go EFI before too long. Then the computer will add all the fuel I'll need for cold startup...

 

If you are going EFI in the near future it makes sense to go with a manual choked 1405 if it is cheaper than a 9966. But I wouldn't be afraid of the rebuilt/refurb'd carb from Edelbrock if it saves you some cash.

I do wish the E'brocks came with a vacuum pull-off though. On the Q-Jet I put on my '72 390 I used a manual choke with a spring so that the pull-off could do its thing as the engine warmed up. It worked so well that it was easy to forget that the choke **** was pulled out - until you noticed the gas gauge dropping rapidly.

 

The only car I ever had with a manual choke was a '64 Dart with a slant six.
That thing was SO cobbled together, the sticky choke was really the least of my problems.

 

Ok thanks to all of you.

 

Ok here in the new info. I replaced the coil and ignition box and tested the voltage at the coil and was right at 7 volts. When i turned it over it fired right up but only ran for about 10 seconds then died. It started right back up, any ideas

 

You live in Wyoming... was the engine cold when you started it? Like, hadn't run for days? If so, a misadjusted choke could cause it to die quickly. Next time you run into that, pump the gas a bit and see if you can keep it running.

 

Yeah engine had not ran for a couple of days. i tryed pumping the gas but i will try it again in the morning. Can someone give me some insight on how the hot air choke works. From what i have read it pulls hot air out of the exhaust system and pushes it threw the intake right, and thanks Chris

 

If you have the same 4180 that I have you have an electric choke.
It takes power from the black/white stator wire of the alternator and connects to a single bullet connector on the choke cap.

There should be a heat stove (shroud) on the passenger side exhaust manifold.
This has an approximately 2" diameter flexy foil tube that connects to the bottom side of the air cleaner housing snorkel.

There is a flap in the snorkel that is vacuum actuated.
It closes off the fresh air intake and draws heated air into the air filter until the air cleaner housing reaches operating temperature.

Some air filter housings have another plastic scoop on the drivers side.



There is a vacuum actuated flap there too.



If the vacuum is disconnected or the actuator fails, it will be open all the time.
Correct this by covering from the inside with foil tape or semi permantely with pop rivets.

Your truck will be very cold blooded if it is constantly drawing sub-zero air while it's trying to warm up.

 

ok thank you Jim.

 

I don't think I've ever seen a 4180 with a hot air assisted choke.
Please let us know what you find.