96 F350 Dump, single cab, dually

351 5.8... Truck ran hot towing a trailer on the interstate and burned up #7 piston

Had new long block/heads put in and the truck hasn't run right from the start... I shoulda known thered be trouble with the shop I brought it to-

First it was because it's a dually or dump they have to charge use extra for the tow- after it was at the shop- there was absolutely no issue loading it up on the tow flat bed... Then it was call after call about needing to replace egr valve, water pump, you name it... None of which I did as i was the one that drove the truck hot- cranky at the end of work late, wanting to get home... I prob pushed it too hard.. My truck, my company, i paid for the engine... It burned the piston, ran like a champ before, didn't need these parts..

It wet to court and I'm telling you the judge was so unfair it wasn't funny. I'd go to rebut and be told to be quiet by the judge etc while woman representing the shop got pretty much free reign. Cut my loses I'm just gonna tear into it and get it going...

What it's doing- runs like garbage, goes into limp mode.

I'm thinking they didn't break in the engine right and that the cam is toast-

#8 piston, furthest back driver side, spark plug is absolutely clean, no smell of gas etc all other plugs show signs of firing etc

I've read that not breaking in the cam correctly, the lobes could wear down, hence why it wouldn't be opening the valves on #8 letting in fuel expelling exhaust...

Any help? Thanks!

 

i would pull the valve cover and see if the rockers for that cylinder. if not then I would look deeper into it

 

I would remove the valve cover on the driver side and watch the movement of the rocker arms on #8 while cranking the engine. If they do look okay, I would bleed the valve lifters down and take the proper steps to check the rocker arm to valve stem clearance on all valves on that side.

First you might want to try contacting the company that built the long block. I know that's probably a long shot, but you might consider it.

 

Besides the mechanical inspection suggested above pull the codes to see if the shop messed up anything else.. accidentally or on purpose, if nothing else you'll eliminate a ton of possibilities so you can focus on what's really wrong with the motor. Pulling the codes is pretty easy too, put a jumper across the STI and Sig_Rtn wires in the EEC test harness, turn the key to run and count the flashes on the check engine light. If you get 111 then there's nothing wrong electrically. See the link for additional info on this. Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test

 

Been out monkeyin on it... Valves move...8 is getting fire... Looks like water might be squirting in there because the plugs clean...

Prob put the damn head gasket in upside down

 

Guess I'm gonna pull the head... Thanks for the replies!

 

No need to pull the head. If there is a head gasket problem at all remove the radiator cap and start the truck. If it bubbles while running and doesn't go away after a few minutes the gasket is bad. I doubt it is. Did you pull codes like Conanski said?

 

Rad looks to be circ... Compression leaks ever so slowly.. That whole side except #8 hold compression.. 8 slow leaks

My dad had pulled the codes a few weeks ago, he cant recall exactly, it was for something by the heater core by/on the intake, a part he replaced three times. He also said he pulled the top of the intake manifold and found moisture inside of it.
Did some digging lastnite I found that putting the head gasket on upside down/backwards is a common mistake b/c it looks like it can go both ways..

All te plugs, except 8, are a little brown from firing etc... 8 has gas, spark, so cam must be okay... Pulled out the rods, both correct length... Hydro lifters so no adjustment, just torque rockers down...

 

That's true, there is no adjustment per se. The clearance between the rocker arm and valve stem should be checked when the engine is assembled. If the clearance doesn't fall between the specs, different length push rods are available to get the clearance correct. I'm not saying this is your problem, but something I would check on #8.

 

Has anyone else heard of head gaskets being installed upside down? Prob won't have time/energy to mess with her til Tues

You can pulle the plug wire off #8 and the truck runs just the same

 

You said that plug is clean, have you verified you spark at the end of that #8 wire? It could be just a bad plug wire.

 

Put a couple different wires on it... Makes no difference... Like unsaid you can pull the plug boot off and the truck runs the same... Got radiator and fan clutch pulled this morn... Bout to pop off the ac comp and dig into her...

 

Hey if anyone could post up a link to a good place that has the torque specs for the head and intake manifold etc I'd appreciate it very much!

 

All these bolts, except for the one I pulled out of the 8 runner in the lower intake man are clean and nice, broke free easy etc...

The bolt in 8s runner was roughy to break and right away I could feel the friction... Pulled the bolt out and it's rusty/corroded looking... Bout to pull lower man...

If anyone know how to load mobile w/o having to join a photobucket or something lmk

 

This may not be your problem, but I put a crate motor from NAPA in my truck. It was a Hesco motor from Lousivlle, KY. It ran fine for a while then started missing. I changed everything I knew to change. Then finally pulled compression and #8 (I think) was leaking down. Long story short, it was worn valve guides. Hesco had used some copper valve guide sleeves instead of replacing valve guides. They fully warranted the engine, I changed both heads, and it has been running great ever since.

Might not be your problem, but worn valve guides were mine.

Good Luck