I thought I would post my problem here and see what you guys think.

On my '92, 302, I have a failing compressor. It is "catching" after 1 - 3 turns. The clutch doesn't want to spin freely, not cooling well at idle and local shop advised me to get a new everything, if I want it to last.

My question is if I can pull a compressor from the JY, from same year/model, replace orifice tube, run a cleaner thru, evacuate the system, and fill with appropriate refrigerant. The reason I'm not doing the full repair with new compressor, new condenser, new drier, is I'm going to be pulling the engine at some point with a newly rebuilt engine I'm working on. I know the old system have R-12, but isn't there a way to just get by with the 134 retrokit's?

Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks again!

 

Junk yard compressors are usually a bad idea. There is a good chance of getting one that is knocking or has bad shaft or body seals. You will only find this out after installing it and charging the system.
Now, if you could find a truck in the yard with an intact (partially charged) system, that's a different story.
The dryer is a "must do" either way. It's 21 years old and not worth risking the desiccant bag rupturing and taking out the compressor.
There's nothing in the retro fit kit that you don't need to buy to convert your system to R134a. You would do well to buy all of the pieces separately and get steel fittings. The aluminum fittings in those kits are trash.

 

I found "2" intact A/C systems in the JY from a '92 and '93. Used compressor is $40 and condenser about the same. $30 for new dryer. Could this be a viable solution for the time being?

Thanks again for the quick reply lsrx101!

 

That could work.
What do you mean by "intact"? Were the systems still charged?

 

Haven't checked for charge, but both had no "wrenching" done to them. Hoses, condensers, lines were still connected. Clutches still spun smooth and free.

 

I wouldn't chance it unless the system is charged, at least partially.
If it's empty, there's no telling where the leak(s) is. Shaft seal and comp body leaks are common.

 

Will go next week to check. If it does, I'll get it.

Now my other questions are these:
1. When ready to refill, what should I get for Freon? With oil, or separate?
2. Synthetic 134a or just regular cans of 134a?
3. Red or blue orifice tube?

I have access to pump and guages, just trying to learn as much as possible.

Thanks again for your help lsrx101!