Fender surgery F-1 LFD style
#18
Ok so now that the dusty and noisy part is done we can start having fun so pull out the sledge hammers and start hitting! Or maybe not!
So here is the reason I said to make the outer fender bottoms flush with the plywood, built in stand to help hold things in place. First thing I do after having the part stripped is to start checking for dings and dents and I use a felt pen to mark them for later repairs. Also here is a small assortment of some of the hammers and dollies I will use to start the process of dent repair.
First on the agenda is to remove the large dent that covers the entire rear corner of the fender. With all dents you want to try and remove the damage in the reverse order that caused it to begin with. With this dent I happen to know it went into the fender back in 1959 or 60 and was the result of backing up into a steel post in a gas station (my friends Mom did that one). So by looking at the dent and assuming the pole was vertical and with the fender now sitting like it would on the truck I know the dent was started in the center and pushed in causing the top and bottom portion to be affects of the main contact point. So I worked the dent out by using a plastic mallet and tapping on the top and bottom of the dent from the rear with the fender sitting on a lead shot bag. I tok my time and worked the dent for a few minutes and as I started to work toward the center things started moving back in place. After the dent was mostly out I took a fat marker and covered the area with black ink then took some 80 grit pater on a sanding block and lightly went over the area to see where my high and low spots were. as you see this fender is already in much better shape and if you wanted all the dings and small dents could be eliminated with a very thin coat of filler. But since I am a glutton for punishment I will work them all out and have it ready for a coat of fill primmer before blocking it out for paint.
For the next installment I will start making the templates and contour gauges for the rust repair areas and show all the steps needed to do a quality patch
repair. But this is all for now so stay tuned as I should have some more this week or by next weekend.
Kevin
LFD Inc.
So here is the reason I said to make the outer fender bottoms flush with the plywood, built in stand to help hold things in place. First thing I do after having the part stripped is to start checking for dings and dents and I use a felt pen to mark them for later repairs. Also here is a small assortment of some of the hammers and dollies I will use to start the process of dent repair.
First on the agenda is to remove the large dent that covers the entire rear corner of the fender. With all dents you want to try and remove the damage in the reverse order that caused it to begin with. With this dent I happen to know it went into the fender back in 1959 or 60 and was the result of backing up into a steel post in a gas station (my friends Mom did that one). So by looking at the dent and assuming the pole was vertical and with the fender now sitting like it would on the truck I know the dent was started in the center and pushed in causing the top and bottom portion to be affects of the main contact point. So I worked the dent out by using a plastic mallet and tapping on the top and bottom of the dent from the rear with the fender sitting on a lead shot bag. I tok my time and worked the dent for a few minutes and as I started to work toward the center things started moving back in place. After the dent was mostly out I took a fat marker and covered the area with black ink then took some 80 grit pater on a sanding block and lightly went over the area to see where my high and low spots were. as you see this fender is already in much better shape and if you wanted all the dings and small dents could be eliminated with a very thin coat of filler. But since I am a glutton for punishment I will work them all out and have it ready for a coat of fill primmer before blocking it out for paint.
For the next installment I will start making the templates and contour gauges for the rust repair areas and show all the steps needed to do a quality patch
repair. But this is all for now so stay tuned as I should have some more this week or by next weekend.
Kevin
LFD Inc.
#19
The rest for tonight!
But just for reference the large dent took about 3-4 minutes to go from what you saw to what you see now and then to get it to the point of what I consider finished will be about 2-4 hours more! And then about another 1-3 hours picking all the rest of the dings and dents out plus I would guess about 6 hours on the three rusted areas.
Again if any of you are decent with photo shop please PM me as I have a chop and stretch I need to see before cutting this truck apart!
Kevin
LFD Inc.
But just for reference the large dent took about 3-4 minutes to go from what you saw to what you see now and then to get it to the point of what I consider finished will be about 2-4 hours more! And then about another 1-3 hours picking all the rest of the dings and dents out plus I would guess about 6 hours on the three rusted areas.
Again if any of you are decent with photo shop please PM me as I have a chop and stretch I need to see before cutting this truck apart!
Kevin
LFD Inc.
#23
I'm not! It will be all metal finished meaning the metal will be finished to a point of just needing sealer, fill primer and blocking then paint.
But if I had to use filler and now and then I do it is always Rage Extreme Gold.
Kevin
LFD Inc.
But if I had to use filler and now and then I do it is always Rage Extreme Gold.
Kevin
LFD Inc.
#29