Ok I have 12v (11.9) at the coil red wire,s with key on (in run not start pos)
I also have 12v (11.8) at the box on the drivers side fender
To both the red wire and the white wire
Ok so this give anyone any idea's were too look next

 

Man this is driven me mad if there is power to the DS11 box and the coil how can it only run if the key is pushed forwards to the start pos .
Any one know how the DS11 box works ?

 

You should only have power at white in the "Start" key position.


Duraspark II

With the coil connected (backprobing the Horseshoe connector) you should only 'see' about 7.5V going to the coil in "Run".

This question would likely be better answered in the '80-'86 forum as the only '87 vehicles still using DSII were carburator 460 & 351HO trucks with GVW over 8500#
DSII was completely gone by the '88 model year except in certain RV's and chassis only models

 

As you can see, the DSII system works by breaking the coil ground (green 'Tach' wire) when the distributor pickup pulses.
Power to the white wire in "Start" signals the DSII module to retard the spark timing 3* in order to ease load on the starter.
While cranking the coil gets full battery voltage. In "Run" voltage is reduced to keep from burning up the coil.

 

This suggest to me that the ignition switch is either misadjusted or has failed.
Perhaps the switch itself -or the plug- has overheated and has now has a short or crossed wires.
You shouldn't have power to both the red & white wires of the DSII module at the same time.
You should have 12V in start and ~7.5V in run at the coil *with some load applied*.
If you are measuring with a DVM and the coil disconnected you will still "see" 12V because there is essentially no current flowing.

It also sounds like you should either charge your battery or check the system grounds.
An automobile battery should be around 12.5V at rest.

Hope this helps.

 

Well there is a ballast resistor, which I totally doubted earlier. My Haynes manual shows basically the same diagram that Ard posted only not as colorful. I don't know why I didn't think to look at the Haynes manual earlier. I'll try to post how to check the ballast resistor:

1. separate and inspect the ignition module two-wire connector with the red and white wires.
2. Unplug and inspect the ignition coil connector.
3. Attach the leads of an ohmmeter to the BATT terminal of the ignition coil and the red wire in the module connector.
4. If the indicated resistance is the same as specified, the resistor is okay. Indicated is 0.8 to 1.6 ohms.
5. If the indicated resistance is less or more than the specified primary resistance, replace the ballast resistor and recheck ignition coil supply voltage.
6. Reconnect the module plug.

 

I've heard of modules going bad on the run circuit and not the start. I didn't read the whole thread... have you had the ignition module tested?

 

I removed the wire's from the coil when I tested it didn't know it had to be on the coil I will test it again ....
I tested the coil wire's again same with the wires on the coil or off..
I had the igniter module (DSII ?) module tested at AutoZone they say that is fine ...
So I got a hair up my butt and put power to the wire I removed from the starter solenoid and left the key in the run pos and the truck started(used a starter switch) ? I thought the only thing that wire was for was to engage the starter?

 

Blue/red is the 'S' (trigger wire) to the starter solenoid.
You should have power there in the 'Start' position.
By backfeeding it you may be applying power to the DSII module or something else in the ignition circuit.

From what you say, I think your switch is bad.

 

This is the 3rd switch I have in it now
1 one was broken in two piece,s
2 one was new took it back too make sure it was not bad
3 rd one is in there now

 

I'm thinking ballast resistor, now that I know the truck has one. See#21.

 

I checked the wires on the back of the ignition switch have power to all the wires in run mode except for 1...
The other wire got power with the key turned to start
So the switch and distribution of the power from the switch should be working correctly

 

How does this apply power to both sides of the white/red plug of the DSII module?
Why does the ignition switch not engage the starter?
Why seeing battery voltage in both run and start at the ignition coil?

The only effect of an open resistor wire would be no coil power in run.

The ignition switch plug (pigtail) go bad often enough that they are widely available in the aftermarket.

 

ballast resistor wire were is that at ?

 

See post #15