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I dropped my 2011 F350 6.7l at the dealer the other day for the "free" oil change that 'MyFord' on-line account said I had coming. I got it back with the free being $30 off the $140 actual price. Anyway, I have driven it about 75 miles since and figured I would check the oil level. After checking the dipstick, however, it appears that the oil is either already really dirty (black) or that it had not been changed at all. The oil level was also too high (3/4" up and over the metal indicator and onto the cable that holds it on the dip stick.) The oil filter does look pretty new, but it could have just been wiped down. Is there anyway to tell if I got screwed at the dealer or is it normal for the oil to blacken up really quickly?
Oil always turns black very quickly, mostly from the oil that doesnt drain. Its not like a gas engine where it stays clean much longer. As for overfilled, I would head back to dealer and have them look at it. A lot of these dealers are still putting 15 QTS in(6.0, 6.4L), out of habit. These 6.7's take 13 QTS.
Yeah diesel puts a lot of soot and other impurities that pass by the rings into the oil. Absolutely normal for the oil to become black quickly. But the overfill is not normal.
I asked the same thing over in the 6.4 forum a while back. Drained about two ounces after dealer changed and oil looked the same as the 5,000 mile sample I had taken before the change. OA's are coming back pretty good. Diesels just dirty up oil pretty quickly. And as djousma said, gravity doesn't drain ALL the oil, not to mention the fact you DROVE to the dealer and they most likely pulled the truck into the bay and drained the pan relatively quickly. The fact your engine ran for a period of time and didn't sit long enough to allow oil to drop from the upper cylinders and rockers leaves a good portion of old oil still in the crankcase.
Thanks for the quick replies. I feel better now! I actually had to leave the truck the night before, so they probably didn't even warm it up before draining it. I usually change my own but it was too cold this week. On the positive side, I had asked them to check the coolant additive, which was free, and the tech left a second test strip in the engine compartment that is good through Dec 2013. These are unavailable locally or even at the dealer parts counters.
I was also going to have them change the fuel filters, but they wanted $199 to do that, and I already have the filters, so as soon as it warms up a bit this week I will change them, too.
You have two cooling system.
The first test strip in each system checks for Nitrites and how cold your coolant is good for, ( Usually -50°)
The second test is a totally different test strip and test for the Contamination. You take a sample of the coolant, put it in a bottle and add the special tablet, let dissolve and then dip this test strip.
So in reality you need 4 test strips and two tablets to test both of your coolant systems.
Oh, then I guess I am out of luck. This one is labeled Alkalinity test, and I guess in thinking about it, I really can't use it without some sort of color reference chart. I guess I will have to rely on the dealership in my area for this test going forward.
Oh, then I guess I am out of luck. This one is labeled Alkalinity test, and I guess in thinking about it, I really can't use it without some sort of color reference chart. I guess I will have to rely on the dealership in my area for this test going forward.
You can order them online. Grainger sells them in 1 & 4 count packages. Between $2 and $7.
You can order them online. Grainger sells them in 1 & 4 count packages. Between $2 and $7.
For the Nitrite Contamination, Freeze Point and Reserve Alkalinity Tests?
What about the Corrosion Inhibitor ( Contamination Level) test?
In order to do a complete coolant test, You need the Rotunda Test Kit 328-0008 or what ever number they might have replaced that with if a newer test kit is out.
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