Having grown up with numerous 67-72 Ford and Mercury (in Canada) bump-sides as a kid back in the late 70s and early 80s, I recently re-joined the fold with the purchase of a bone dry 68 F100. It was the first one I looked at, but having previously replaced a cab and inner fenders on the family's 72 F-250 4x4 daily driver, I jumped at it once I looked underneath at all of the typical rot spots.

Ironically, this particular truck only has a rotted radiator support (primarily the passenger side), a bit of rot on the right rear cab corner and some surface rust along the top of the passenger side box "bump". All three make me think that it spent its life, like it was parked when I bought it, in the shade and under a tree. The rest of the truck is dry and straight, but for a couple of kinks in the box. Having lived with washboarded old boxes, this one is very clean, straight and undented.

Back in the day, we started with a well worn effectively 5/8 ton 67 Mercury. It had a 1/2 ton Twin I-beam front end with a five-bolt pattern and a 3/4 ton rear end with 8 bolts. The emblem on the hood said M100. The engine was a 300-6 with a four speed (to you and up to the dash for reverse). We rolled it with the family in the front and a 45 (55 to most of you) gallon drum of gas in the back. That kind of made a mess of the canopy (topper...).

We bought a great 69 F-250 with a 360/4 speed as an interim thereafter. It rode like a half ton as it had spent the first 10 years of its life with a full size camper on it. Its replacement, a rusty 72 F-250 with a worn out, sufferin' 300 six had also spent many years with a camper sitting on it. One day, I will share the pics of its arrival with my mom's 76 Austin Mini perched in the box (it was bought 500 miles away and my dad needed a way to get both vehicles back...).

Helping rebuild the wrecked Mercury's 300-6, taking the 72 down to the frame, replacing its cab, rebuilding much of the running gear and thereafter maintaining it was the basis of my mechanical training. However, I am rusty and therefore very much look forward to all of the help that I can get as I tackle the "new" 68 F-100.

Having done much of my historical mechanical work in the mud, snow and cold (and with most basic tools), this time I got it right and rebuilt an old gas station for a shop - before buying the project. For now, I will sort the mechanicals (steering, brakes, 4 speed and peripherals) of the 68 and use it as a shop truck. Longer term, it is a good candidate for a frame up restoration.

My real love is 53-56 F100s. Once I find the right original one, I'd like to do a frame up on it first. Back in the day (pre-licence), I bought and dismantled a 54 F100 panel with a broken body, a 53 cab and a 54 pickup with a broken frame. It was all good until we moved. However, it was really the lack of a shop, time and funds that kept that project from fruition.

Ever a Ford guy (had a few 70, 71 and 72 Torinos along the way) and keen to participate.

 

Wowzer.... First off Welcome to FTE. You'll like it here. I sure do.

You got yourself quite the story.

Were going to have to see a few epicures of that new '68.

 

Thanks lilsmokey. Looks like you've got a good project going yourself. How are you doing finding parts in Denver? Any good wrecking yards you've come across?

 

Yeah. It wasn't the kind of project I wanted but it keeps me busy and it keeps me out of trouble. If you don't mind me asking where in Colorado are you located? Down where I am there are quite a few junk yards with old bumpsides in their inventory. A few that come to mind are the "U Pull and Pay's" around here. Denver, CO springs and Aurora.

The U pull and pay in Denver has...
-1968 f100
-1972 f100
-1968 f250
so If I need any small parts I have a few options right there.

If you need any help on your '68 Just let us know

 

I'm in Denver, but so far have only made it to the Aurora U Pull & Pay. It didn't have a straight or non-rusty radiator support, but I will check out the others you mention. It is early days and mine is largely functional, so I can be patient. Much appreciated.

 

Well if I am going to be heading down to the one in Denver off federal and if I see good radiator supports on either of the bumpsides ill let you know.

If you saw them how did the beds on the bumpsides out there look?

 

Redz, Welcome to FTE & the bump forum.

Have you thought out in advance of what running gear you want your truck to end with? If you are happy with period correct power, you might want to look at 73-79s in the yards for power steering & disc brake upgrade along with engine tranny combo. Buy that good donor and have all the parts needed for your bump.

Seems like you are setting yourself up for a good project upgrade. Shake the bushes, turn over rocks, plan hard now, it will pay off later.


John

 

Thanks for checking this post out John. I have read many of your posts on the site before joining and appreciate the potential benefits of what you are suggesting. However, call me stupid or old fashioned, but I like to keep my cars original and correct. I do remember how sweet it was to spin the wheel and get out of a tight spot with our old 69 F250 with power steering, but the nostalgia of the 67 Merc and 72F250 4x4 with stone standard steering and brakes is pulling too hard (yes, my 68 is standard all around). To get over my affliction, I need to do a full custom project one day.

In the near term, I will stick with the 360/4 speed, but fine tune the engine, replace the master cylinder (which is fairly damp), try to tighten up the play in the steering wheel and check out the extra groans of the tranny in low and reverse. Thereafter, further driving of it might put me over the top on switching to power steering and power brakes (jumping from my modern four wheel disc cars into the truck is fine once you get used to standing on the pedal, but going the other way you tend to throw yourself at the windshield at the first light).

Longer term, I am not sure what engine/trans I might go for, but am quickly beginning to appreciate the benefits of a donor vehicle for all of the peripherals. From it, I might get some mirrors, windshield (mine is pretty shot), interior parts, body parts and perhaps engine and trans parts for the near term. I'm scouring the streets, back yards and fields as I drive, but no hits of the perfect one yet. Those on Craigslist that are debatable drivers are typically too far gone and too pricey.

 

Lilsmokey, as you know, they pile enough parts in the boxes at these places to prevent a good look, but I think I took some quick pics so I'd have a future reference. They are on my computer at work, but will either advise you or figure out a way to send them to you. At least one had the bedside toolbox if you are into that.

 

Redz, I guess I was never away from them, and was climbing the ol age ladder when creature comforts became more important than manly hood. You can look through my side window and see a not correct steering wheel, and peer through the holes in the spoke wheels and see discs. With you 10+ ft away I challenge most to say my truck isn't original. I only wish there was an OD adaptation for my C6 to slow my ol gas sucking FE down at 70 mph.

You build yours the way it makes you happy as long as you are paying the bills.



John

 

John, For much $ you can have a Gear Venders OD unit that bolts to your transmission. I'd like one for mine also but....$.

 

Yep, The reason that I don't.



John

 

Nothing wrong with the drum brakes if you have them tuned right. You could also add a booster and it would still be stock since it was an option on the 2wd, not sure on the 4x4. Most brake shops and even certified techs don't know about arcing in the shoes. Or if you have new drums or ones on the tight side of the specs, you should still have a good contact area. I don't think Velvet-touch makes brake linings anymore but I think there is something similar. They always stopped cars real good.
The best brakes I ever had were on a 57 F-350. It had a power booster behind the seat like a bigger truck. I had a truck brake shop turn my drums and reline the shoes, and arc them in. It would put my nose in the windshield if I wasn't careful.

 

Pictures or it didn't happen.

 

Thanks willowbilly3. I have yet to pull the drums, but will consider re-arcing when I get to the shoes. Is the arcing to flatten the arc because the drums have been turned? Also, in the booster you describe, would it be the booster that sits behind the master cylinder in a power brake setup or an add-on unit?