Since I got the truck insured through Hagerty, and they require the vehicle to be locked up, I have been keeping Betsy in the garage.

For the past few days, I smell gas when I go into the garage. It doesn't appear to be coming from the filler pipe or the seal at the tank. It doesn't look like it's coming from the carb.

But the top of the fuel pump (stock) looks wet. Is that normal? I wouldn't think so, but I don't really know. Do you think that's where the smell is coming from?

I believe I read on here that these fuel pumps can be rebuilt? What are your thoughts?

 

Park the truck outside.

 

Park the truck outside. What the PanelMan said.
This until you determine if you have a leak and the leak is fixed. Better to loose the truck than the house and truck and maybe more. I really don't think we need to discuss the dangers of gas fumes in an enclosed area.
If the pump is leaking it may appear wet. A pump that has a leak that dries off will appear clean and generally have a whitish cast.
Original pumps can be rebuilt but many aftermarket pumps can not. If your pump has the screws around the outside holding the top and bottom together, try tightening them slightly. If the pump is original the new government gasoline is probably taking toll on the diaphragm. Check the flex line and the steel line for that matter. I would make the source of the smell a top priority.

Just a BTW, but vented gas caps will allow some fumes to escape.

 

I tried tightening the screws on the top of the pump, but they are all tight. You are probably right about the new gas effects, as this didn't start until I started driving it.

The pump must be leaking, as it appears wet. It is not drying off and does not look clean or whitish.

I checked the lines and hose and everything looks dry.

Can this style pump be rebuilt so that the new gasoline will not affect it?

 

The most likely suspect IMO is the glass bowl gasket. Mine dissolved in about a week after contact with gas that had MTBE in it (winter gas). It was like jello when I pulled it.

Do you have a shut-off valve at the tank outlet? Couldn't hurt to close it. On the flat-6 the pump is low enough that it could siphon if the tank if fairly full.

 

Well, this has scared me badly enough that I pulled the trigger on a new fuel pump from Mac's that "says" it's compatible with E10 Ethanol. I almost bought one from AutoZone, until I reread the description. They have it for the V8, not the 6 cyl.



I have never seen a shut-off valve on the tank... only the drain petcock, which was dripping very slightly and was where I originally thought the smell was coming from.

 

The "drain petcock" is the shutoff valve, unless you have two valves on your tank?

 

So when I cranked that shut to stop the "slight" drip, I probably cut off the gas to the carb? How is that thing supposed to work? Open it until gas drains out and then shut it til it stops dripping?

I guess I'll find out the next time I try to drive it.

 

The modern gas has eaten through my motorcycle fuel lines and my tr6 fuel lines and carb diaphram. It makes the gas lines mushy and soft. It also does not seem to last very long in my vehicles that are seasonal.

 

Joe

Couple of thoughts:
The shut-off valve (if you have one) would be on on the fuel line itself or just under the gas tank. You may not have one - with this experience, you may want to install one. These are only allowing or stopping the flow of gas, not trying to drain it from the line. Closed valve = no gas flow.

The gas on the top of the fuel pump may be due to the outgoing line to the carb. Originally, this was a steel line and it is possible to have it mis- threaded into the pump. This happened to me and caused fuel to spill onto the gravel pan from the pump. You'll be removing the line to replace the pump - take careful note and you'll want to reinstall the line at the pump first and the carb second.

Replacing the pump is a bit more involved than it appears. There is an access panel on the inside fender that - after jacking up the front and removing the wheel - will allow you to reach the bolts that hold the pump. It is possible to avoid that step - it does require a stronger vocabulary than one might use in polite company - and better agility than I possess.

You really want to understand the source of your leak before you get too far into parts replacement mode. Nothing worse that applying the correct solution to the wrong problem.

DW

 

ALBQUE F1

Do you have a picture and/or part number of your shut valve at gas tank you are using. I need to get one. I took a picture of this one in the Junk Yard this past weekend. There is nothing in my shop manual noting the installation of a fuel shutoff valve.



I have discover that the gas cap created a vacuum situation causing the fuel to be siphon into the fuel pump and out the carb when I first crank the engine over a month ago. I just loosen the gas cap and remedy the situation. The early cars and trucks had vented gas caps.

 

That appears to be the same style of stop valve I have. I hope you grabbed that one?!

Joe, explain what happens when you open your petcock. I don't know how it could run if you are driving with it closed, unless it is truly a drain valve someone added, and the fuel leaves the tank from a Tee above the drain valve.

 

Go to your local NAPA auto parts store. They should have a good selection of the fittings and pet *****. That's where I got mine.

 

Many of those are for water service, be careful! There was a thread a year or so ago, I think it was BobJ was looking for a petcock. Hard to find.

 

JUst a quick note on the subject of gaskets going bad with the newer fuels.

Buna type gaskets and "O" rings will solve your problem, they do not rot with the newer fuels. I bought a Buna "O" ring kit and have had no further problems.