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Cranks but will not start 2001 F-350 7.3 psd

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Old 12-23-2012, 12:30 PM
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Cranks but will not start 2001 F-350 7.3 psd

Hey guys, I have an issue with my 2001 f350 PSD. Intermmittently it will not start. It will crank really quick, but will not even try to start. I think it is not getting fuel. There are no CEL codes and I have a WTS light and the tach is moving while cranking. I hear a clicking/buzzing soun coming from under te center opf the dash. When I hear that sound it will not start. checked fuses and relays and it started before. not sure if removig the fue made whatever reset. this has happened a couple times. Now it will not reset. When I remove the number #24 fuse under the hood, the clicking stops. when i crank it, but still doesnt start. Anybody sen a similar issue. Whe it starts in runs perfect. Drained the batteries trying to trouble shoot, but have them charger now. All help is appreciated. It only has 130K
 
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Old 12-23-2012, 02:09 PM
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Have you ever replaced your Cam Position Sensor (CPS)? If not, it is the likely cause.

Also, disconnect your ICP Sensor and see if it will crank. If so, either your ICP or (more likely) your IPR sensor needs to be replaced. In the case of an IPR, it can be taken apart and cleaned really well as it rarely "dies."

Speaking of IPR...also make sure the IPR tin nut is on there securely. If it is loose or has fallen off, it will cause all sorts of problems.

When in doubt, check the "Hard No/Start" thread in the stickies at the top of this forum (under "Tech Links"), as there could be a plethora of causes such as a bad MAP sensor, fuel cut-off switch engaged, drained batteries, plugged fuel line, bad fuel pump, etc. etc. etc.
 
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Old 12-23-2012, 02:29 PM
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Last link in my signature... give it a click.
 
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:52 AM
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Replaced the cps and no change. When the truck would throw this fit, i could pull the number 29 fuse out for a minute or two and it would start back. That fuse under the hood was labeled as radio. when i unplug it, the buzzing goes away. so i thimk there is something else on there besides radio. there is still the factory radio in the truck and nothing looks to have been tampered with by a previous owner. it is not a daily driver until mowing season, which is fast approaching. I will try the icp to eliminate it, but i think it is something minor electrical.
 
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:11 AM
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Any smoke coming out of the tailpipe when you're cranking? White or otherwise.
 
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:20 AM
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none, so it has to be in the fuelsystem right.
 
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:23 AM
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i am still hearing the buzzing as well. sounds like it is in the dash behind and to the left of the radio. is there any relay or anything related to the fuel system inside the cab?
 
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:46 AM
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Buzzing frequently indicates poor connection on the battery terminals. Jiggle the cables. Do they move? There it is.
 
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:51 AM
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I'd clean the terminals on the batteries and cables real good. Load test each battery to make sure they are both good. Hook your charger up to it and set it to "start", see if it fires off. That noise your hearing is generally associated with low voltage. Does it tend to happen when it's rainy/humid? Does the buzz go away when you press the brake pedal? Do you have auto headlights? Don't know if the '01 model even came with them.
 
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:52 AM
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Tugly got me.
 
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Old 01-19-2013, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by agr682
none, so it has to be in the fuelsystem right.
No, it's electrical. When the engine is spinning over real fast and not starting, the IDM is not trying to fire the injectors. Try and track down the source of the buzzing (don't waste the batteries trying to crank it).

When you have the no start, does your wait to start light come on and go off line normal?
 
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Old 01-27-2013, 11:42 PM
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still couldn't track down the buzzing exactly. Pulled the #24 fuse and buzzing went away while cranking. Fuse says PCM. Left it out while recharging both batteries. Replaced, and it started right up. is this common with the PCM, or is the PCM located inside the dash or near the radio? I think i am getting close to solving it, but i dont want te drive it out and be stranded somewhere. Anyone familiar with the PCM an its issues? Thanks for all the feedback everyone! This forum has saved me lots of time and Money over the years.
 
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:49 AM
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With it running check what voltage you are getting from the alternator. If you have a scan gauge of some sort. Maybe a potential faulty alternator isn't putting out enough to keep the batteries up to snuff.

Just a thought.
 
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Old 04-01-2014, 08:33 AM
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Hello,
I have the exact same issue with one of my trucks now. did you ever find the cause of this no start?

I have a 2001 F350 7.3l 4x4. It starts without any issues when warm out, when we get a cool day, the radio cuts out and comes back on about 3 seconds into the glow plug cycle, the wait to start light is normal, after the truck has been driven through a drive cycle it has no issues restarting, but the radio may still cut out during the glow plug cycle.

Thanks
 
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Old 04-01-2014, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by AMAPM
Hello,
I have the exact same issue with one of my trucks now. did you ever find the cause of this no start?

I have a 2001 F350 7.3l 4x4. It starts without any issues when warm out, when we get a cool day, the radio cuts out and comes back on about 3 seconds into the glow plug cycle, the wait to start light is normal, after the truck has been driven through a drive cycle it has no issues restarting, but the radio may still cut out during the glow plug cycle.

Thanks
Sounds to me like you need to replace your Glow Plug Relay (GPR). Its about $35-50 I think (Excursions have a GPCM instead, so I don't know exact cost of the GPRs). Very simple to do, maybe a 20 minute job. Sounds like your current one is shorting out, hence the radio issue. When it's warm out, the GPR isn't needed to start the truck...only when it's cold. Plus, once you've driven the truck, the glow plugs are warmed up and ready to go. Now, you could also have a bunch of bad glow plugs if they are all still original...but that's a lot more effort to replace as you have to remove the valve covers to get to them. You can test them with a multimeter from the valve cover gasket pin plug...do a search on here on how to test glow plugs without removing valve covers.
 


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