Thanks for the pics too!

 

After initial bench bleed, I push, loosen a plug, let some fluid out (while still pushing), re-tighten plug and repeat for the other plug. This helps to burp the last of the air from the MC.
When switching to a dual reservoir MC, the pedal must be able to stroke the piston full travel in the bore or brakes will not work on remaining good system in the case of a failure. Best to calculate stroke required and measure. Then test once in vehicle by loosening a front or rear bleeder. Trust me..

 

I will give you his info if you send me an e-mail at jhason2@yahoo.com

As for the albums I can look now that someone has explained it to me and I go and play with it.

I prob. will not start my own album ( even if I could ) I am not a paying member and I have heard from other people that run their own websites that pictures mean more money that the owner of the websites and I do not want to take advantage of anyone's kindness with starting this site.

 

Thanks for the tips, unless I am misunderstanding you though on the last part I should not have this problem since my master and pedals are already matched to one another and I am able to get the full stroke out of them.

 

Glad you can look at pictures now. I hadn't heard of the albums/ more money issues. I'm not a paying member either. I'll send an email to you for the info.

 

This is what I started with, its unfortunate that the master has to go right on top of that firewall rib but thats where it ends up unless I would like to re-engineer everything.

I take my hammer and dolly and work it down some but it will never be perfectly flat unless I were to maybe shrink it or cut it out and start with a piece of flat stock which I do not want to do either.

I dont want any leaks either though so I silicone the heck out of the surrounding hole both sides of the little plastic deal they gave me as well thats inserted over the studs and sorta keeps dirt away from the rear of booster and I stick in the hole.

I end up with this

My wife has to hold up master while I go inside cab and get the pedals up in there and over the protruding studs which can be a pain in the butt but when done will look like this







Again its not a show truck but a driver instead, there are alot of things that can be done to make it look neater and nicer and if I had an infinite pile of money and time I would be doing them.

I am happy with it the way it is as long as it functions and is safe.

Itll take a bit to get used to the pedals being a bit off to the left but once anyone sits in it it dosent take any time to do that.

Now I have to decide what next, pull my groin removing wheels and tires to hone out brake cylinders or run brake line.

Its still early and I think I will get the cylinders started and hopefully done.

 

I see a few dabs of sealer on the firewall. Was your truck a fire truck at one time? On my truck I welded a bunch of drilled holes, similar to where your dabs of sealer are. Just wondering if the same drill wielding person had played on your truck at one time? LOL

 

Plan to replace the flex lines. Assuming that you haven't already done so.

 

Yes it was a fire truck water tanker, the sealer is a 3M product called panel bond, if you are unfamiliar with it you should become familiar.

You would not believe the things I have made use of it from. Hold some parts of the space shuttle together.

BTW ALOT of those holes are my own past endeavors at different things

 

Thanks for the idea, believe it or not the last time I did this I did not replace the one in the rear. I did the two fronts but for some odd reason ( prob. just trying to get by with what I had ) I did not.

I have a new one now, cost, 21.00 from Amazon hose, just bring them your old hose and they match it with new fittings.

 

Here is the master with hood open, only issue I am going to have to get around ( another day ) is that pesky hinge/hood stay deal. There is not enough clearance for that with the booster there.

I am using a pipe at this point to hold the hood open, I will come up with something a bit more less red-neck

 

Once you have managed to wrestle the tires off this is what you are going to see

If this looks like a big heavy pain in the butt than I guess I am taking pretty good pictures.

The information that was posted for me last night said to hit the center of this thing twice and it will sorta start to pop off, said never to use a screwdriver, I guess that would be in a perfect world.

Once you get this thing started to come out there are all of these little cone shaped keepers that will fall off if you are not careful. I remove these and set them in a little box. Now the axle will pull straight out and this is what you will see.

I am guessing there are special big socket to remove this nut, I dont have it and it dosent look like anyone before me had it either so I try and catch one of the gouges with a screwdriver and my big hammer and spin it off.

Behind this is some sort of a spacer with holes in it, I have no idea of its purpose, pull it straight out by prying/wiggling with two screwdrivers.

And then another nut that appears to be the same size.

The drum is almost ready to come off, go to the backside of backing plate, you will see two little hole on opposite sides, the manual tell you these are adjusting holes, what they dont tell you is that they require a 3/8 ( I think ) allen wrench to turn.

Try and turn these to release any tension on the brakes.

Now get out your best friend ( bigger the better ) and try and knock the drum off from the backside. If you are lucky it will come off, if not your screwed and just keep whacking it all around the drum in different places.

I was lucky in that I had these off within the last few years and someone before me had them off recently as well when he replaced the brake lining.

Here is what you will have

After you pick your ********* off the ground and put this thing out of the way you will be looking at this You can see my Allen key inserted thru the front side in this picture of the adjusting cams.



It would seem that I have dry pads but I do see differential oil coming out ( very little ) so maybe this would be the time to replace the seals mentioned on another thread.

I am not sure where these seals are so if anyone can tell me where they are, how to replace them and where to get them it would be a big help for me.

 

This was posted by Raytasch on another post.........The inner seal is the one that goes into the back side of the inside bearing. The inner seal fails and you contaminate the brakes. The gasket fails and you see oil slung all over the outside of the wheel..........I am thinking that he is referring to one of the seals that I can see inside the drum once drum has been removed.

Hopefully he will chime in here if this is correct and maybe have a part # /source for new seals.

 

1930 Dodge,
Nice pictures of your wheel hub project. There is a procedure in my truck build of how I put them back in place with no strain. Holler if you have any questions. My hub and drum weighed 145lbs

JimG

 

Please stick around and help ad to this topic, I will still have alot of questions including this one.
I will need to see if I can find what you are talking about