I know I have an air leak, because an FTE fella mentioned it when I had air coming out of the defroster when I went into Four HIGH, with the hubs in auto, they did not "lock" in. So I manually went out and pushed them to "on", did my think. Then turned back to AUTO. I assumed this would take them out of "lock", but I realized that when I take tight corners it seems like they might still be somewhat engaged. Any idea's of where I should look to fix this? I am loading up my project list this weekend. Thanks team!!!

Merry Christmas and Super Happy Holidays to all of you that have helped me many many times - even when my question is answered on the next page and for having the patience to help me in my endeavors (stewart, woodnthings,cpsid,mike,tugly, etc.... many more - thank you).

 

Have you ever serviced you hubs? The grease inside the hubs may be getting "dried out" and hindering the movement of lock mechanism. You also don't want to "pack" the hub full of grease. This will also have the same effect. I remove, clean, inspect, and relube my hubs every 50k miles. I use a light coat of high temp grease (not the thick one for disc brake hubs bearings) on the moving parts and repack the needle bearing the axle gear rides in. Jack up and turn each front wheel while engaging and disengaging the locking hub. You should hear a distinct "pop" as it engages. They should also release quickly when disengaged. If not, remove the locking hubs inspect and service them, using this procedure: http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/allube.php

 

Mueckstar,
I always hate when that first question is, have you ever, I mean EVER serviced your hubs. LOL...... That right there tells me to get on it! @136k miles and no service = bad routine maintenance

I have been thinking about doing exactly what you just mentioned, using that very link, but was a little nervous because of "needle bearings".... I also read somewhere you can by a zirk fitting that will plug into the same spot as the ABS and you can pump grease it it. Now, I have not done the research yet to see if this is the same thing or not.

But I bet your 100% right (rarely put that in hardcopy), lets say 95% right! Because I know they have not been serviced, I have seen a reduction in mileage and in the turns. I have also never heard any "pop" sound when switching from auto to on @ the hubs.

I think you just brought up a nice project to finish the weekend out, I just finished installing a power distribution block up under the steering wheel area (use this for reverse lights, and anything that needs fusable power and ground)

Since you might be reading this, on the stock battery terminal (not the post) where the ground wire goes in, does that stock terminal screw off or is it punched on and crimped? I would like to just unscrew so I don't have to cut the wire and make it shorter. Thanks for your time.



Thanks again, between you Stewart, cpsd, woodnthings and about three others - I get all my answers - thanks again for the quick reply!

 

I think your going to need to pull your spindle bearing assembly & inspect & lube the needle brg. that grease adapter is meant for your sealed spindle brg. with 136k its time to take a peek.

 

Actually, there are 2 needle bearings. The one I mentioned in the locking hub and one inside the rear of the unit bearing assembly. The one inside the hub spins when the hub is unlocked and the one in the spindle spins while the axle and locking hub are engaged. Like said above, the unit bearing assembly would need to be removed to access that one.
The lead terminal is molded to cable and would need to be cut, or melted to remove.

 

Is there a common are where the vacuum leak generally happens? I know on my 99 Expedition there is a vacuum leak at the elbow (for other things), and its like clockwork - at 50k this elbow goes bad. Is there a place in the vacuum line that is commonly a bad spot?

 

Where hose attaches to the nipple on the knuckle behind the wheel and also the opposite end at the frame. The hose tends to deteriorate & crack and has a chalkiness to it.

 

Jason,
I had the same trouble with one of the stock hubs on mine. Make sure when you get them freed up that you get the snap ring deal back on right (that holds it to the wheel hub) or you will be minus one hub like I was. I didnt like the factory hubs and I have always had good luck with Warn hubs on my race trucks and wheeling rigs I just put a set of those on and have been trouble free for 60k. Smooth as butter in and out. I am sure if I would have serviced the stock hubs like I should have they would still be nice and smooth.

 

I am working on this now and wondered if it is easy to disengage them using a shop vac or something or when I assemble it to manually disengage them. Any ideas or am I just being lazy. It might make sense once I get the hub off but thought I would post just in case.

 

There are separte vac levels for lockin and unlocking so using a shop vac is iffy.

With the hubs off you can just push in on the inside senter of the hub to lock or unlock. Push all the way they lock. Push about half way they unlock. You are basically using your finger to simulate the vacuun action. That is why there is a different vac level to lock and unlock. If you can't get them to lock and unlock doing this the hub has a problem. Mess with them for a minute and you will figure it out.

 

Full disclosure - when I did the guzzle7.3 auto hub grease - I also did the riff raff ABS grease thing.

My concern is that when I have the drivers front side in "auto" with it in 2WD and turn the wheel, the drive shaft does not turn. However when I turn the passenger front wheel the drive shaft turns and you can feel the difference. My question is what did I do wrong? Shouldn't the drive shaft not turn when in 2WD and AUTO - for that matter, even when locked should it turn?

I have a four-five hour trip tomorrow and my GF is going to kill me if I can't get this resolved. The only difference when servicing the hubs is the passenger sort of sprung out - including the nylon piece at the bottom, but everything appeared to be put back together in the right order.

I also replaced the vac. lines going from the hub up to the first nipple connection point.

The dreaded question - if I do nothing, won't this damage something?

 

You should pull the hub and recheck how you reassembled it. If that large spring is in the wrong place the hub will be permanently locked. Been there done that. Figured it out after manually pushing in on the center to test locking and unlocking the hub. See my previous post.

In a pinch you can always remove the hubs and still drive the truck.

 

Status Update. I think what is happening (please check my logic), the metal (tin) dog ears that grab on the plastic piece and holds it - these dog ears are not always grabbing the piece and therefore is always applying pressure. This pressure I believe engages the gears and forces it to be locked. Sound correct?

Would a warn hub fix this - because the dog ears look bent and I am guessing the dealership will want a fortune for them.

IDEA: If worse comes to worse and I can't get this fixed - how BAD would it be to drive with the hub OFF or just take the guts out of it and install the shell. THis would avoid the one being locked and other wheel not - and allow me to pack for my trip today. I know its not "good" but is it something that would cause horrible side effects.

Paysonpd, thanks again for hanging with me on this.

 

Like i said you can drive without the hubs. Just installing the shell will help keep the crap out.

Warns are an easy replacement but will only operate manually.
And you're right, the OEMs are a small fortune.

 

OK, a small celebration is in order . I was able to bend/tweek those little metal pieces to snap just right so it does not artificially engage - now I won't test ESOF (turning it to 4H) because I think it will just get stuck again. Hopefully no need for 4WD this trip.

Payson - you are a lifesaver!!! Thank you for your time, patience and continued checking and responding. It may seem "small" but having someone to ping in these troubled moments helps build the confidence.

Thank you. I did price a new hub from stealership @ 301.97 (that truly was the price for ONE hub). I thought the Warns were expensive. Crazy!!

Thank you again and after I get back, I will certainly figure out a better long term solution.