Won't Start up....'89 F-150.... Need your help!!!!
#1
Won't Start up....'89 F-150.... Need your help!!!!
Hello Ford ladies and gents. This is W&J... we may have gotten in way over our heads. We bought an '89 F-150 5.0L from Craigslist for $1,000 as a remodel truck and to take our muddy mutt hiking. It ran fine for a bit...now I cannot get it to start. It cranks fine.
New:
Starter Solenoid, Starter, Alternator, plugs, plug wires, fuel filter.
--------------------
Battery tested and fully charged. Removed a plug and cranked up...plenty of spark. Can hear the fuel pump energize when turning on key.
Sidenote: We are novices!!!! In over our heads!!! Way more book smart than practically capable...... and the manuals seem not to be a help.
We are starving for ideas, and willing to try about anything. As far as the exhaust system, it has cracked manifolds, original catalytic converters, and a hole in pipe just forward of muffler.
Thanks to anyone with input!!!!
New:
Starter Solenoid, Starter, Alternator, plugs, plug wires, fuel filter.
--------------------
Battery tested and fully charged. Removed a plug and cranked up...plenty of spark. Can hear the fuel pump energize when turning on key.
Sidenote: We are novices!!!! In over our heads!!! Way more book smart than practically capable...... and the manuals seem not to be a help.
We are starving for ideas, and willing to try about anything. As far as the exhaust system, it has cracked manifolds, original catalytic converters, and a hole in pipe just forward of muffler.
Thanks to anyone with input!!!!
#3
Hello Ford ladies and gents. This is W&J... we may have gotten in way over our heads. We bought an '89 F-150 5.0L from Craigslist for $1,000 as a remodel truck and to take our muddy mutt hiking. It ran fine for a bit...now I cannot get it to start. It cranks fine.
New:
Starter Solenoid, Starter, Alternator, plugs, plug wires, fuel filter.
--------------------
Battery tested and fully charged. Removed a plug and cranked up...plenty of spark. Can hear the fuel pump energize when turning on key.
Sidenote: We are novices!!!! In over our heads!!! Way more book smart than practically capable...... and the manuals seem not to be a help.
We are starving for ideas, and willing to try about anything. As far as the exhaust system, it has cracked manifolds, original catalytic converters, and a hole in pipe just forward of muffler.
Thanks to anyone with input!!!!
New:
Starter Solenoid, Starter, Alternator, plugs, plug wires, fuel filter.
--------------------
Battery tested and fully charged. Removed a plug and cranked up...plenty of spark. Can hear the fuel pump energize when turning on key.
Sidenote: We are novices!!!! In over our heads!!! Way more book smart than practically capable...... and the manuals seem not to be a help.
We are starving for ideas, and willing to try about anything. As far as the exhaust system, it has cracked manifolds, original catalytic converters, and a hole in pipe just forward of muffler.
Thanks to anyone with input!!!!
#4
Okay...we're back. I hope everyone had a stellar Christmas, and 2013 is the greatest so far. We took a break for life...but now..we're gonna fix this truck. We adopted a new 90 lb mutt and he needs a truck!!!
So...we now have also removed the Throttle body and cleaned both sides of the butterflies well, and changed the PCV.
The truck will start with starter fluid, and I am able to keep it running by working the throttle. It will not just idle though. I ran it for a little bit after reinstalling the throttle body, and gave it some fairly high ( 2500-3000 ) RPM. It did back fire through the top and out the air intake hose. That said, the response time on engine acceleration was better after the throttle body cleaning. I have not started it with new PCV yet.
My next plan was to follow and label all teh lines with colored tape. Coolant lines one color, Air Conditioning another, Fuel another..etc....the schematic for the vacuum system is terrible, so I want to find all vacuum lines, label them and test them.
The fuel pump seems to work fine, but if I could FIND the external fuel pump, I would change it anyway.
I feel there is just one little thing that I am missing that would fix it all. Also..there is white smoke on initial start up....but after that, nothing out the exhaust pipe, and at higher than idle RPM, engine sounds strong.
Little more help guys??? Thanks..... Josh ( & Wendy )
So...we now have also removed the Throttle body and cleaned both sides of the butterflies well, and changed the PCV.
The truck will start with starter fluid, and I am able to keep it running by working the throttle. It will not just idle though. I ran it for a little bit after reinstalling the throttle body, and gave it some fairly high ( 2500-3000 ) RPM. It did back fire through the top and out the air intake hose. That said, the response time on engine acceleration was better after the throttle body cleaning. I have not started it with new PCV yet.
My next plan was to follow and label all teh lines with colored tape. Coolant lines one color, Air Conditioning another, Fuel another..etc....the schematic for the vacuum system is terrible, so I want to find all vacuum lines, label them and test them.
The fuel pump seems to work fine, but if I could FIND the external fuel pump, I would change it anyway.
I feel there is just one little thing that I am missing that would fix it all. Also..there is white smoke on initial start up....but after that, nothing out the exhaust pipe, and at higher than idle RPM, engine sounds strong.
Little more help guys??? Thanks..... Josh ( & Wendy )
#5
Okay it doesn't sound terminal.
My first guess would be to check the IAC (idle air control). It's bolted to the side of the throttle body and has a two pin plug. Make sure it's plugged in first. If it's not plugged in the truck will not idle.
If it was plugged in(and won't run), then remove it and clean it up. Take two small bolts and the two pin plug.
Get some brake cleaner and spray in the two holes:
Get it good and clean. With a small screwdriver you should be able to wiggle the "valve" portion. You have to make sure it is free and easy to move. Look in the holes and you'll see the "sealing" area and make sure it's not clogged up.
Install and see if it now will start and idle. If the valve is stuck open, it will be too lean and truck won't idle.
There could be other issues with broken vacuum lines or such, but this is on the top of my list.
My first guess would be to check the IAC (idle air control). It's bolted to the side of the throttle body and has a two pin plug. Make sure it's plugged in first. If it's not plugged in the truck will not idle.
If it was plugged in(and won't run), then remove it and clean it up. Take two small bolts and the two pin plug.
Get some brake cleaner and spray in the two holes:
Get it good and clean. With a small screwdriver you should be able to wiggle the "valve" portion. You have to make sure it is free and easy to move. Look in the holes and you'll see the "sealing" area and make sure it's not clogged up.
Install and see if it now will start and idle. If the valve is stuck open, it will be too lean and truck won't idle.
There could be other issues with broken vacuum lines or such, but this is on the top of my list.
#6
The first thing to do with any computer-controlled engine that isn't behaving correctly is to ask the computer what it thinks is happening.
Here's how:
Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
Ford Ranger/Bronco II EEC-IV Testing
If the computer is having a problem with the IAC or TPS (or whatever), it will tell you that via one or more codes.
That being said, the problem sounds like a fuel-delivery issue which the OBD I computer might not know much about, but it is nevertheless the best place to start the diagnosis IMHO.
Here's how:
Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
Ford Ranger/Bronco II EEC-IV Testing
If the computer is having a problem with the IAC or TPS (or whatever), it will tell you that via one or more codes.
That being said, the problem sounds like a fuel-delivery issue which the OBD I computer might not know much about, but it is nevertheless the best place to start the diagnosis IMHO.
#7
Good morning Freightrain....... Well I know your info is good.... We just forgot to state that the IAC is new also.
Ctubis...... I've been hoping to find a local parts store that could read my codes,but they don't have the older equipment to read EEC IV......... I'll study your link as soon as I'm home though........
Thanks guys.....happy New Year!!!!
Ctubis...... I've been hoping to find a local parts store that could read my codes,but they don't have the older equipment to read EEC IV......... I'll study your link as soon as I'm home though........
Thanks guys.....happy New Year!!!!
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#8
Since you're new to this, I would recommend the Equus 3145 to retrieve codes from your truck (you could try the clip method too, but it's kind of annoying to do, do a little research on the net if you wish), get the reader and the cable and you will be able to read your trucks codes for less than $50.
#10
Hello....and Happy New Year...... guys..thanks for the tips so far....so here's a re-cap..
New: IAC, Starter, Starter Solenoid, Battery terminals, spark plugs, knock sensor, plug wires, alternator, and Throttle Position Sensor
Battery has been removed and tested.
I took Encho's advice, and he was right. Computer codes told me TPS problem. I changed it, but it still won't start without starter fluid. Are the only possibilities left, Vacuum leak and timing????
New: IAC, Starter, Starter Solenoid, Battery terminals, spark plugs, knock sensor, plug wires, alternator, and Throttle Position Sensor
Battery has been removed and tested.
I took Encho's advice, and he was right. Computer codes told me TPS problem. I changed it, but it still won't start without starter fluid. Are the only possibilities left, Vacuum leak and timing????
#11
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Perhaps you're losing fuel pressure to the point that one charge of the fuel system isn't enough. Try turning the key to run and wait the second or two for the fuel pump to turn off then repeat a few times before starting.
Does it fire right back up after it's been running, or is it just as hard to start?
Also: How old is the fuel? If it's pretty old then there's a good chance it just needs some good gas. Mine wouldn't idle with two year old gas in it, but once I diluted it with some fresh stuff it went back to normal.
Does it fire right back up after it's been running, or is it just as hard to start?
Also: How old is the fuel? If it's pretty old then there's a good chance it just needs some good gas. Mine wouldn't idle with two year old gas in it, but once I diluted it with some fresh stuff it went back to normal.