First...credit goes to Sanddmon08 for the ideas and location. He did an excellent job with his..mine so so.

I purchased the Racor CCV 4500 and the CCV55038 hose kit from diesel-filters.com. Great to work with and fast turn around. Were the cheapest I came accross.

there is a parker store here but they dont carry this piece.

So I also still required some hose and a couple pieces.

I located the CCV right under the passenger door even with the transfer case skid plate.

I used brass grade 8 bolts ( a little over kill) but hey why not. And then on the back side I double nutted it. Sprayed it with black enamel when completed. This pic will have to wait as it is now dark outside.

I removed the air cleaner to route the hoses behind it. Easyist way to do the job.

the hose that goes from the fill canister to the intake is 1" so I had some 1" low pressure hyd hose so I used that for the job.

So here are some pics.

 

Tomorrow I will snap some pictures now that it is all mounted up.

I did this as I was beginning to notice the turbo boots in the CAC showing alot of oil flim on them. I have 75K and a little over 1900 hours on the motor.

Since I tow pretty heavy my concern is eventually the boots will degrade and blow off when I pushing close to 40 psi on the turbos.

 

Sweet. Keep us updated how much oil you drain out of it.

 

drove it 10 miles this evening and pulled the canistor, nothing there. So suppose it will take some time for it to make it the 8' to the canistor.

When I took the hose off the oil filler (factory hose) there was a liquid coating of oil. So this should clean up the air inlet nicely.

 

When I took off my factory hose, I tipped it up and enough oil was in it to pool in the elbow. I vented to atmosphere for the time being. I've got a good sized oil stain on my frame rail where it dumps from the vapor. I've been contemplating changing it to a bypass but there isn't a whole lot available.

 

those Racor units arent cheap!, I have all my stuff to do mine to atmo.....just got to do it!

 

Parts used are:
CCV4500-08L
1 6FNTX-S Cap (a cap for the bottom of the filter).
2 125hbl-16-12
2 14-3/4f50g-s female adapters

And then just some bolts/washers/nuts from you local hardware store.

And of course enough hose.

 

attached are three pics I took this morning. It is raining so I did the best I could. One shows the cap that I listed above, you would need something to cap the bottom of the canistor as racor has it designed to just drain back into your oil pan.

The one of the connections in the engine bay, you can see I have a bit of a kink in one of the hoses. I think there is still enough for the vapors to travel. I may do some looking around for a elbow of some kind to make a proper turn but I think it is ok like it is.

 

That's a pretty good bend in that hose. I'm sure you could find a nice elbow piece to patch in there by going to local Home Depot. Thanks for the write up and pics.

 

Good call out. I'd be worried about restricting the air flow from the crankcase.

 

Yes...I found some 180 degree fittings from summit racing. Parts came in today so tomorrow I will put them on

 

Just thought I would report back. I don't have pics because it is too dark but I have the 180 piece on now.

I used a piece from summitt racing. FRA-218016 is the part # and an adapter for the other end.

I also have about 500 miles on the mod now and it is working well. There is just a little residue in the filter and totally clean on the exit side into the air filter.

Even with the kink I had in the hose it was still working well as I had inserted a small hose inside to keep the kink open. Now I don't have any and it is free flowing throughout.

If I had a machine shop or something this would be a lot easier to piece together.

There really isn't or I never did find any ready made parts for this type of a mod.

 

When I made mine, it took a lot of thought trying to figure out ready made parts from a hardware store and auto parts store. It can get really expensive.

 

Looks good Scott,

Once the filters get saturated the oil will drip off and start collection at the bottom, i usually collect a little less than a 1/4 cup per 1500 miles or so out of mine, it varies. After the filters saturate oil collects faster so keep an eye on it so it dosent get to full. Watch the indicator on top of the canister it will show when u need to change the filter. To reset the indicator remove the plastic bowl on top and just push the indicator down again.

They also have a remote indicator you can mount in the engine bay so i don't have to crawl around and check it so often.


FYI, I have found that the cheapest replacement filters are on ebay sold in sets of 6.

 

Yeah I saw they have a remote for it. I was tossing around the idea of getting it.

I was going to include it in my monthly draining of the fuel/water separator.