2003 4WD Escape Front axle leak
#1
2003 4WD Escape Front axle leak
I need some Escape advice:
I have been searching all over the internet for a couple of hours now but can find very little on this subject. I have a 2003 Escape Limited 4WD with approx 163K on the clock. It developed a tranny leak from the front driver's side axle. The seal is new and in good shape as I just replaced the axle and seal a few weeks ago. (I checked the shaft size and surface finish of the axle and it is in spec.)
I just removed the axle tonight and discovered that the problem seems to be the bushing just inboard of the seal in the tranny. The axle has movement up and down when inserted. (Not good!) This is allowing the fluid to leak from the seal.
Here are my questions. Is this a simple DIY fix using a slide hammer type of puller (or similar), or is it time to take it to a tranny shop. I can not seem to find a replacement part listed anywhere.
Also, with this much mileage, should I have the tranny reworked as a precaution if this repair requires dis-assembly or should I just address the leak and think about dumping it? I would prefer to keep it as my kids are now driving age and this is primarily their vehicle. (It has been a great little truck!)
I plan to call the local tranny shop tomorrow to see what they have to say, but my experience has shown that there is a wealth of great users out there on this site that may be able to provide some good advice.
Any input would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks in advance.
I have been searching all over the internet for a couple of hours now but can find very little on this subject. I have a 2003 Escape Limited 4WD with approx 163K on the clock. It developed a tranny leak from the front driver's side axle. The seal is new and in good shape as I just replaced the axle and seal a few weeks ago. (I checked the shaft size and surface finish of the axle and it is in spec.)
I just removed the axle tonight and discovered that the problem seems to be the bushing just inboard of the seal in the tranny. The axle has movement up and down when inserted. (Not good!) This is allowing the fluid to leak from the seal.
Here are my questions. Is this a simple DIY fix using a slide hammer type of puller (or similar), or is it time to take it to a tranny shop. I can not seem to find a replacement part listed anywhere.
Also, with this much mileage, should I have the tranny reworked as a precaution if this repair requires dis-assembly or should I just address the leak and think about dumping it? I would prefer to keep it as my kids are now driving age and this is primarily their vehicle. (It has been a great little truck!)
I plan to call the local tranny shop tomorrow to see what they have to say, but my experience has shown that there is a wealth of great users out there on this site that may be able to provide some good advice.
Any input would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks in advance.
#2
I can not seem to find a replacement part listed anywhere.
In case no one here has done it, maybe somebody here has a shop manual for 2001 - 2008, they could look up the bushing remove/install procedure for you to see if a puller will do it.
I have the 6F35 trans for 2009 - 2012, totally different trans.
My $.02 ... if the bushing can be pulled externally, I would just pull it and install a new one and go on, not pull the whole trans apart.
#3
I vote with Torky. If you can use a slide hammer to pull the old one, you should be able to drive the new one in successfully. I looked at an online manual, and it gave no 'in car' procedure to R&R the bushing. It may have to come apart. There was a procedure for L & R output shaft seals, but no bushing...
tom
tom
#4
Thanks for the input, Torky and Tom!
I called the tranny shop today and have an appt for them to put it on their lift in the morning to give me their diagnosis. Since I have had the axle out and know fairly well the condition of things, it will be interesting to hear their take. They said it could be a compromised final drive (bad news and rebuild or replacement reqd) but I am keeping my hopes up that it is simply the outer bushing since I am not experiencing any drive issues - only the leak and the sloppy fit.
Torky - I did find the "bushing kit" at Rockauto as suggested for around $35. If the shop confirms this is the issue and can direct me how to remove the bushing myself without pulling the tranny, I will tackle it. These guys are pretty trustworthy - so we will see. I will keep you posted.
Thanks again guys!
I called the tranny shop today and have an appt for them to put it on their lift in the morning to give me their diagnosis. Since I have had the axle out and know fairly well the condition of things, it will be interesting to hear their take. They said it could be a compromised final drive (bad news and rebuild or replacement reqd) but I am keeping my hopes up that it is simply the outer bushing since I am not experiencing any drive issues - only the leak and the sloppy fit.
Torky - I did find the "bushing kit" at Rockauto as suggested for around $35. If the shop confirms this is the issue and can direct me how to remove the bushing myself without pulling the tranny, I will tackle it. These guys are pretty trustworthy - so we will see. I will keep you posted.
Thanks again guys!
#5
You can use a sliding hammer to remove the bushing. I know that they sell them but the ones I've used were all hand made. They make internal pullers for sliding hammers but they are normally for large ID stuff.
I've never looked into a purchased sliding hammer so I don't know what they come with as far as adapters, etc.
The ones I've made have an threaded adapter sleeve. One can just use anything that has the same thread and a head big enough to catch the wall "only" of the bushing. The one thing you have to watch out for is if you use a soft bolt is chips or bits of the bolt as you hammer falling into the case. I perfer to use a socket head bolt as they are tougher and don't chip off easily.
I've got two, one is a 1/2" rod and the other is 3/4" for the big stuff.
I've never looked into a purchased sliding hammer so I don't know what they come with as far as adapters, etc.
The ones I've made have an threaded adapter sleeve. One can just use anything that has the same thread and a head big enough to catch the wall "only" of the bushing. The one thing you have to watch out for is if you use a soft bolt is chips or bits of the bolt as you hammer falling into the case. I perfer to use a socket head bolt as they are tougher and don't chip off easily.
I've got two, one is a 1/2" rod and the other is 3/4" for the big stuff.
#6
Thank you all so much for your input. You were spot on.
I took the Escape to the tranny shop this am. The issue with this bushing is that it is seated against a step in the case and there is not enough of a difference between the step and the bushing OD to catch on for use of a slide hammer. They reverted to using a chisel to cut/deform the bushing it till it was free of the friction fit. This is something I would have been hesitant to try as I thought the bushing was brittle and had visions of chips being thrown deep into the tranny. As it turns out it is malleable and bent instead of breaking. They then inserted a long magnet to ensure no chips were introduced into the tranny.
The new bushing has an oil slinger groove to help to lubricate the axle shaft. After about an hour of labor, and $120.00 I am back on the road. All in all a pretty good deal in my book. Beats removal and replacement. (I will say that the dis-assembly was pretty easy since I had already had it all apart before and there were no issue with frozen bolts etc.)
I hope this post might help someone with a similar issue. Just knowing that the tranny does NOT need to be removed to make this repair is good information and the procedure is nice to know.
Now on to the next issue: Wheel bearing replacement. One in front and one in the rear. I already did one in the front and this will not be a problem, but am told the ones in the rear are a PITA. We will see.
Thanks again!
I took the Escape to the tranny shop this am. The issue with this bushing is that it is seated against a step in the case and there is not enough of a difference between the step and the bushing OD to catch on for use of a slide hammer. They reverted to using a chisel to cut/deform the bushing it till it was free of the friction fit. This is something I would have been hesitant to try as I thought the bushing was brittle and had visions of chips being thrown deep into the tranny. As it turns out it is malleable and bent instead of breaking. They then inserted a long magnet to ensure no chips were introduced into the tranny.
The new bushing has an oil slinger groove to help to lubricate the axle shaft. After about an hour of labor, and $120.00 I am back on the road. All in all a pretty good deal in my book. Beats removal and replacement. (I will say that the dis-assembly was pretty easy since I had already had it all apart before and there were no issue with frozen bolts etc.)
I hope this post might help someone with a similar issue. Just knowing that the tranny does NOT need to be removed to make this repair is good information and the procedure is nice to know.
Now on to the next issue: Wheel bearing replacement. One in front and one in the rear. I already did one in the front and this will not be a problem, but am told the ones in the rear are a PITA. We will see.
Thanks again!
#7
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#8
Thank you all so much for your input. You were spot on.
I took the Escape to the tranny shop this am. The issue with this bushing is that it is seated against a step in the case and there is not enough of a difference between the step and the bushing OD to catch on for use of a slide hammer. They reverted to using a chisel to cut/deform the bushing it till it was free of the friction fit. This is something I would have been hesitant to try as I thought the bushing was brittle and had visions of chips being thrown deep into the tranny. As it turns out it is malleable and bent instead of breaking. They then inserted a long magnet to ensure no chips were introduced into the tranny.
The new bushing has an oil slinger groove to help to lubricate the axle shaft. After about an hour of labor, and $120.00 I am back on the road. All in all a pretty good deal in my book. Beats removal and replacement. (I will say that the dis-assembly was pretty easy since I had already had it all apart before and there were no issue with frozen bolts etc.)
I hope this post might help someone with a similar issue. Just knowing that the tranny does NOT need to be removed to make this repair is good information and the procedure is nice to know.
Now on to the next issue: Wheel bearing replacement. One in front and one in the rear. I already did one in the front and this will not be a problem, but am told the ones in the rear are a PITA. We will see.
Thanks again!
I took the Escape to the tranny shop this am. The issue with this bushing is that it is seated against a step in the case and there is not enough of a difference between the step and the bushing OD to catch on for use of a slide hammer. They reverted to using a chisel to cut/deform the bushing it till it was free of the friction fit. This is something I would have been hesitant to try as I thought the bushing was brittle and had visions of chips being thrown deep into the tranny. As it turns out it is malleable and bent instead of breaking. They then inserted a long magnet to ensure no chips were introduced into the tranny.
The new bushing has an oil slinger groove to help to lubricate the axle shaft. After about an hour of labor, and $120.00 I am back on the road. All in all a pretty good deal in my book. Beats removal and replacement. (I will say that the dis-assembly was pretty easy since I had already had it all apart before and there were no issue with frozen bolts etc.)
I hope this post might help someone with a similar issue. Just knowing that the tranny does NOT need to be removed to make this repair is good information and the procedure is nice to know.
Now on to the next issue: Wheel bearing replacement. One in front and one in the rear. I already did one in the front and this will not be a problem, but am told the ones in the rear are a PITA. We will see.
Thanks again!
Depending on the type of bronze bushing they use, it could be easy to remove. An oil-lite or oil impregnated type is pourous and breaks easily, just have to watch not to damage the aluminum case.
#10
bushing kit
Thanks for the input, Torky and Tom!
I called the tranny shop today and have an appt for them to put it on their lift in the morning to give me their diagnosis. Since I have had the axle out and know fairly well the condition of things, it will be interesting to hear their take. They said it could be a compromised final drive (bad news and rebuild or replacement reqd) but I am keeping my hopes up that it is simply the outer bushing since I am not experiencing any drive issues - only the leak and the sloppy fit.
Torky - I did find the "bushing kit" at Rockauto as suggested for around $35. If the shop confirms this is the issue and can direct me how to remove the bushing myself without pulling the tranny, I will tackle it. These guys are pretty trustworthy - so we will see. I will keep you posted.
Thanks again guys!
I called the tranny shop today and have an appt for them to put it on their lift in the morning to give me their diagnosis. Since I have had the axle out and know fairly well the condition of things, it will be interesting to hear their take. They said it could be a compromised final drive (bad news and rebuild or replacement reqd) but I am keeping my hopes up that it is simply the outer bushing since I am not experiencing any drive issues - only the leak and the sloppy fit.
Torky - I did find the "bushing kit" at Rockauto as suggested for around $35. If the shop confirms this is the issue and can direct me how to remove the bushing myself without pulling the tranny, I will tackle it. These guys are pretty trustworthy - so we will see. I will keep you posted.
Thanks again guys!
#11
Gregjo1948 - Look under the Transmission section in RockAuto. There is a section for bushings and it is the only selection underneath that. It is a full bushing kit that covers the whole tranny. I could not locate a single bushing for this - so this was one way to get the bushing from RockAuto. I think the price may have gone up a couple of bucks. Make sure you purchase a seal as well!
Good luck! Let me know how it goes.
Good luck! Let me know how it goes.
#12
Gregjo1948 - Look under the Transmission section in RockAuto. There is a section for bushings and it is the only selection underneath that. It is a full bushing kit that covers the whole tranny. I could not locate a single bushing for this - so this was one way to get the bushing from RockAuto. I think the price may have gone up a couple of bucks. Make sure you purchase a seal as well!
Good luck! Let me know how it goes.
Good luck! Let me know how it goes.
#13
Thanks ElbowJoe. I believe I have found one. WIT(Whatever IT Takes) in Scranton, PA warehouse. Phone# 570-655-4200 Tom. When I talked to Tom early Mon. morning, he hadn't gotten a delivery yet. Didn't have one in stock so he ordered it out of Cleveland,OH saying I should get it upstate NY Wedns.. Bushing was $2.85 and the seal $5.48. He didn't know the shipping cost but, figured $10.00 or so. I'll post how it goes and I'll be saving WIT #. Ford parts department was no help with this bushing that should be available as a kit with the seal. Thank you, gregjo1948
#14
Does anyone have a Ford part number for this bushing? Or know why it doesn't show up on a diagram of all of the trans parts? I know of this being a problem and being replaceable, but the guy at the trans shop says there is no such thing. If anyone has pictures of the bushing, like they were making a how to, that'd be great too.