Factory and tuned timing is variable, as are the injection pattern. Up to 5 times a second.

Time will tell if 1 by 1 stud installs last, not too many of them yet.....

 

This was copied from somewhere on the internet, can't remember where though...


Pilot 1 - 30-15* BTDC
Pilot 2 - 15-5* BTDC
Main - +/- 5* of TDC
Post 1 - 5-10* ATDC
Post 2 - 10-25* ATDC
Post 3 - 155-165* ATDC - DPF active regeneration via in cylinder dosing
Post 4 - 165-185* ATDC - DPF active regeneration via in cylinder dosing

 

Stock PSI is set to max out at 41 PSI.

Be interested in this cap you ordered.

 

Matco tools part #ac560000, but i was misinformed from our mech. who was misinformed from tool guy, it does test for combustion in coolant, but you pump coolant into it and the dye or liquid in it that is blue will turn green if combustion gasses are present! sorry for the misunderstanding

Kit is 81.80

Napa sells one also but i do not have their part number

 

I'd be scared to rely on that test though.... how many 6.0's and 6.4's could have exhaust gas into the coolant at a point in time from EGR coolers? Without proper diagnosis someone could replace heads for nothing....

 

good point, when we removed my egr coolers we noticed that the fraimrail mounted cooler was wet, seemed like it may have been leaking, i never gave it a thought, thank u sir!!

 

lets just say for saying sake, hg are good, is there anything else that could cause a coolant pressure spike in system, i know there are two tstats, could one of them stick causing a pressure spike, or maybe a blockage in system anywhere????

Just tryin to rule out anyother possiblities

 

Yes it is possible.
I don't know what everyone elses opinion is of the 6.4, but I know first hand that the cooling system is way more "finnickey" than the average person thinks.

I and my mechanic spent almost a solid week, trying to get the coolant level right. Using a laser thermometer, one head was hotter than the other. Somehow it was air locked, don't ask me how.
With the coolant level at slightly the wrong level, I was also able to get the degas bottle to puke, and the cooling system to pressurize beyond 16 psi, just in neutral.
Things about this engine boggle me, I am not even close to knowing everything about it, the deeper I dig, the more overwhelming it becomes.
Most of the ford experts are good at replacing.... the best are good at diagnosing... very very few actually know WTF is going on.

If the truck passes a cooling system pressure check, then you're HG's or bolts are stretched. (IMHO).
Seeing as were damn near in the same boat, here is my plan:

-keep driving it until spring when I get lot's of time off
-order new HG's, head studs, EGR delete parts, intake elbow, MAYBE rocker arm set... maybe. ( a friend had his apart, and he said everything looked new, and his mechanic friend said everything was brand new spec, virtually unworn. this was at 180,000 km's.)

 

I forgot to say:

now that the coolant level is right, temperatures in heads are close to same, oil temperature is back to normal, no puking ever, etc ... everything is just perfect again.

There must have been some foaming or air or whatever, what a PITA i tell you.

I'll also be switching to evans coolant. With the complexity of the cooling system this things have, the cost of evans is a **** in the pond.

 

Possible..anything can happen.

 

At one point in time, coolant wouldn't flow through one of my heads.
When the truck was warm, the mechanic said he was taking a laser thermometer, and one head was way hotter.

Many flushes, adding it at different speeds, trying different levels, etc etc.... FINALLY got it in there, and everything instantly went from a crap shoot, to running perfect.
I don't know how or why it was airlocked... maybe it was "steamlocked? "

All i know, is the the cooling system is nothing to mess with on these, it requires a special skill to work with.
Skill that very few people would have patience for.

(I do not have the skill lol)

 

Whats your engine oil temps look like going down the highway?
I thought my oil cooler was bad, now it's just fine, EOT is within a few degrees of ECT all the time. It was up to 15 degrees difference driving empty, once I got the coolant system sorted, alls good.

I wonder if anyone else has replaced an oil cooler thinking it was bad?
I almost did.

 

At the moment i dont really know what my oil temp is, i havent had it on my gauge for awhile, i will change it tomorrow and see what the tuner says the two are at, thank you all for your help with this matter, i couldt do it without ya'll, drove the truck today(bout 30miles) stock power setting and drove it normal, no hard pulls, and its clean as a whistle, acts like nothing ever happend, gonna keep playin around and see what i come up with...

Thanks
Ian