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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

1967 F100 4BT cummins daily driver build

 
  #16  
Old 11-26-2012, 05:18 AM
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Thanks for the compliments guys. I am just a self taught hobbyist welder. Bought a Lincoln 175 back in 2002ish and just started messing with it. It was about 125 degrees in my garage when I was doing the MII and rear frame work; it about killed me. I think I kept Gatorade in business!
 
  #17  
Old 11-26-2012, 09:17 PM
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Are you running straight argon with that or are you wire brushing those welds? It looks as clean as TIG.
 
  #18  
Old 11-27-2012, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Ford_Six View Post
Are you running straight argon with that or are you wire brushing those welds? It looks as clean as TIG.
It's just 25 / 75 mix. And I brush it.
 
  #19  
Old 11-27-2012, 08:12 PM
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That is some nice work.
 
  #20  
Old 01-23-2013, 07:14 PM
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update 1-23-13

Thought you guys might like an update. Got all the hot side and cold side plumbing finshed including the radiator/inter cooler/condenser mount built. Got the hydro boost set up mounted as well. Taking the hot side to get ceramic coated next week and going to start working on the inner fender panels, firewall, and dash next. Enjoy...........

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  #21  
Old 01-23-2013, 08:52 PM
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Now I see why you set the engine so far back. That is a wild compound setup. Are you doing a build thread on 4BTswaps?
 
  #22  
Old 01-23-2013, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Ford_Six View Post
Now I see why you set the engine so far back. That is a wild compound setup. Are you doing a build thread on 4BTswaps?
Yes I am; I keep it more current than what is here.

1967 F100 4BT build
 
  #23  
Old 01-23-2013, 09:48 PM
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This is a great thread and really nice work on the fab.
Welding: I do see some cold roll here and there as well as some spacing and the beads are kinda high loped in most of it. I think your running a little too cool overall and the angles/access challenge isn't your friend. Some of it looks as if you may have made a second pass over the first (atop) cooler first and hotter second. Or what is there are 4 passes, groove, left/right, and cover ? If that is it, fwiw try a test, use a smile, frown, or zig/zag as the cover pass(hot -fast/consistent. Overall I think it will be fine as is, if watching heat and moving the work around to avoid overheating/warp issues etc.. If all this is single pass, too slow/hot and rolling the heat/meat to center of the bead. And "I'm guessing here" a lack of groove prep so it is "all" hunting a center that isn't there. This means lack of full penetration and possible potential for pockets.

Not trying to **** on a parade "I PROMISE" just some observations and it is looking fantastic, takes a lot of Bll's to go for it any way you slice it!! KUDOS! Following the post till she is purring!!

Bobby
 
  #24  
Old 01-24-2013, 05:24 AM
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Yep, you nailed it; double pass on some of it. And thanks for the tips. I wish I could go to welding school. I have a friend that is a "weld" inspector; pointed out the same stuff but said there will be absolutely no structural issues for what I am doing. When I was with the airlines, our company would send mechanics to welding school to become certified aviation welders. I really wanted to go but it worked off the good ole boy system and I was a little to new to the company. It was two months of welding with inspectors and teachers right there. So I am just a Joe blo tryin my best with a little Lincoln 175 in my garage.
 
  #25  
Old 01-24-2013, 09:23 PM
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Well, first problem is that it's a red machine..........
Just my personal preference, I like running Miller machines.
There are a couple quick points that will improve the welds nicely- First is to run hotter, second would be which way you point the nozzle. Running MIG and dual shield, I like to "push" it, face the nozzle about 10 degrees in the direction of travel. You wind up with a flatter bead, and usually less spatter. TIG and stick you have to "pull", or face the electrode about 10 degrees back towards the weld.

I need to get back onto 4BT, I am getting back into my Courier build finally.
 
  #26  
Old 01-24-2013, 10:05 PM
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FordSix is correct, MIG will always come out better if you push and keep the correct stickout (.035dia = .375so) When you pull you are leaving the gas intended to cover the weld pool behind your puddle. Pull will work, but not as good as pushing as your are flooding the pool with gas. Another thing is your gas psi and environment (indoor is ok around 20-25, outdoors may require upwards of 35 and a wind-block if really crappy out).

School: I am taking it at a college near my work after I get off. It's a school that offers extended edu to anyone with an interest and $. It costs me 270.00 for 5 units (4.5 hours 3 nights a week) They start you out on stick, and this is really good for your skill set. It will teach you "HOW TO F'N WELD" After passing the novice & interim, you can move onto a specialty like MIG, FLUX CORE/ + DS, TIG, or keep on with stick and cert through the school. Check around, I bet you can find a good school local. I have 3 within 27 miles that offer welding as a course. Might even have a local highschool teacher you could work something out with. You do damn good for a self taught welder, should do just fine with a good instructor and right attitude towards the EDU thing.

"Weld Toes", Light reading: http://fcp.mechse.illinois.edu/media..._improving.pdf

Bobby PS: You will love 6010-R "I promise" only thing better is a MUD rod, like playing with playdoh
 
  #27  
Old 01-24-2013, 10:39 PM
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This is a great build you have going. Your fab work is impressive really like how you made the crossmember and mII suspension what Intercooler ate you using? Also what size radiator? Keep up the nice work will be looking forward to more drooling pics
 
  #28  
Old 01-25-2013, 06:08 AM
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Thanks guys. I do try to push the welds and never drag. I did not know about the stick out distance though. Nor the angle of the gun; so both of those should help. But on the gas; I have it at like 12? So should it be higher? This is in the garage with no wind.

As far as the radiator, got it off eBay from a company that makes them here in the USA. I will have to look up the name. It was like $200 shipped and seems to be really nice. Probably too big for this application, but I am going to put a electric fan on it on a controller. The radiator is 18 x 18 at the core and 22 x 18 total; double pass so the ins and outs would line up with the ins and outs on the motor. Intercooler is from CXRacing on eBay. 18x12x3 inch core. It was only $115 to my door.
 
  #29  
Old 01-25-2013, 06:39 PM
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Nice build F100...
You did know about the stick out and angle of the gun, you just didnt know you knew...

I too use 12 as my gas flow but im mainly welding thin panel. On the cheap chinese regulator i have, 12 is marked as the upper limit of TIG even though i am using mig...

I hope you've planned your inlet so that the turbo whistle is audible from all directions....
 
  #30  
Old 01-25-2013, 07:53 PM
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awesome job so far man looks great, nice welds, nice fab work, and great motor i bet she will make a nice DD cant wait to find out the mpg's good luck
 

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