Rearend seal leaking
#1
11-22-2012, 01:25 AM
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Perry Georgia
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#2
11-22-2012, 03:57 AM
On my 79 i had to remove the plate and axle to replace the axle and seal. Might as well replace the bearing with the seal while you are there. Had to press mine on 10 tons pressure and axle seal between bearing and retaining plate.
#3
11-22-2012, 10:19 AM
Lead Driver
Did you mark the nut and companion flange and measure exposed end of pinion stub before removal?
If you did not, ignore the quote of mine down in my post as you can't go back and repeat it exactly as removed.
You can however take a SWAG approach to it and hope for the best. Just know that if you go too tight, even just a hair, you'll add crush to that sleeve and tighten up the bearings.
If you are replacing the bearing or any other part besides the seal .... likewise, ignore my method below.
If you did not, ignore the quote of mine down in my post as you can't go back and repeat it exactly as removed.
You can however take a SWAG approach to it and hope for the best. Just know that if you go too tight, even just a hair, you'll add crush to that sleeve and tighten up the bearings.
If you are replacing the bearing or any other part besides the seal .... likewise, ignore my method below.
Pinion Seal Replacement.
My method is to first get the truck / car parked or raised and secure where I can get under it. F-250, I'ld just back it up on my 8" ramps. Set parking brake and block front wheels .... don't need tire tracks on my shirt. Put trans in neutral, paint or punch mark driveshaft at rear yoke so it can go back same as removed, then remove driveshaft from rear axle at U-joint.
Now, I clean the exposed threads of the pinion shaft, the nut, the rear flange / yoke with wire brush if needed. Once clean, I take a sharp center punch and hammer and I punch mark ... the end of the pinion shaft ... the pinion nut ... and the yoke or flange all adjacent to each other, like same clock position.
I also measure the length of the threaded pinion shaft sticking out past the nut and count threads, and I write it down.
This way when time comes, I can put that yoke back on that shaft and tighten that nut back to exactly the same relationship ... and NO FURTHER.
I do NOT want to compress any crush sleaves any further, I want to retain the exact same bearing clearences .... I just need a new seal wrapped around it all.
Now, I remove the nut and yoke and then pull the old seal and install a new seal (and if it's a lose fit inside the housing, you can use a locktite product on the outer side of the seal to fill voids but not on the lips) driving it straight in (not cocked at an angle) ... lube it's lip ... slide yoke back on so it's punch mark is same relationship to that punch mark on the end or the shaft ... and then I slip the same nut back on with same side against yoke as it was when removed ... and apply some locktite on the threads.
I tighten it until close to original setting, then I sneak up to final setting so when I stop, the three punch marks are in the same relationship with each other and same length of shaft sticking out as when I started .... and NO FURTHER.
DO NOT GO TOO FAR.
I then .... if the nut was a loose fit .... may take a punch and punch the threads of the pinion shaft in two spots just to make sure the nut doesn't loosen, though the locktite should prevent that .... and prevent any future sweating of oil that might work it's way out through the threads making it look like another leak.
But that's just my way. I've done it on my vehicles a few times over the years, even a couple police cars ... always sucessfully.
My method is to first get the truck / car parked or raised and secure where I can get under it. F-250, I'ld just back it up on my 8" ramps. Set parking brake and block front wheels .... don't need tire tracks on my shirt. Put trans in neutral, paint or punch mark driveshaft at rear yoke so it can go back same as removed, then remove driveshaft from rear axle at U-joint.
Now, I clean the exposed threads of the pinion shaft, the nut, the rear flange / yoke with wire brush if needed. Once clean, I take a sharp center punch and hammer and I punch mark ... the end of the pinion shaft ... the pinion nut ... and the yoke or flange all adjacent to each other, like same clock position.
I also measure the length of the threaded pinion shaft sticking out past the nut and count threads, and I write it down.
This way when time comes, I can put that yoke back on that shaft and tighten that nut back to exactly the same relationship ... and NO FURTHER.
I do NOT want to compress any crush sleaves any further, I want to retain the exact same bearing clearences .... I just need a new seal wrapped around it all.
Now, I remove the nut and yoke and then pull the old seal and install a new seal (and if it's a lose fit inside the housing, you can use a locktite product on the outer side of the seal to fill voids but not on the lips) driving it straight in (not cocked at an angle) ... lube it's lip ... slide yoke back on so it's punch mark is same relationship to that punch mark on the end or the shaft ... and then I slip the same nut back on with same side against yoke as it was when removed ... and apply some locktite on the threads.
I tighten it until close to original setting, then I sneak up to final setting so when I stop, the three punch marks are in the same relationship with each other and same length of shaft sticking out as when I started .... and NO FURTHER.
DO NOT GO TOO FAR.
I then .... if the nut was a loose fit .... may take a punch and punch the threads of the pinion shaft in two spots just to make sure the nut doesn't loosen, though the locktite should prevent that .... and prevent any future sweating of oil that might work it's way out through the threads making it look like another leak.
But that's just my way. I've done it on my vehicles a few times over the years, even a couple police cars ... always sucessfully.
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