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'haven't seen anyone in FTE delete the cowl vents but quite a few 'stang owners (65-73) delete them after upgrading to AC. Plus, the cowl assembly (also referred to as a balloon assembly) on a 'stang has vent "hats" that collect leaves and other debris. It's notorious for rusting out because they're really easy to get dammed up and start causing rust.
Example:
Dents and bumps seem to be less prone to rust in the cowl since the air comes in through the sides of the footwells. The cowl thusly provides drainage and a modicum of air flow. The cowl typically rusts along the welded seam of the assembly. The debris collects in the vent bowls converse to the above. In conclusion, yeah I would delete them.
First off, great question and thread. If the cowl vent is deleted will there be enough air flow from the openings in the side pockets for the heater to still function properly? Due to this thread I am now considering doing the vent delete on my '74 as I see no way to paint inside the cowl area when I repaint the cab.
First off, great question and thread. If the cowl vent is deleted will there be enough air flow from the openings in the side pockets for the heater to still function properly? Due to this thread I am now considering doing the vent delete on my '74 as I see no way to paint inside the cowl area when I repaint the cab.
The base of the windshield is a low pressure area.. (high velocity= low pressure) that's why the slits are there - the same principle as GM's cowl induction hood or the air box on a NASCAR race car. They do take in air at speed just sitting there without any mechanical assistance. If deleted, there would be less free air being inducted in "vent mode". Turning on the blower motor would create a vacuum (a negative pressure) and that air will be taken in where ever it can be sourced - the footwell vents.
Correct. Unless it is opened or somehow painted with a long flexy nozzle, it is what it is from the factory.
Make a small diameter stainless steel tube that will fit between the top slits and or go up thru the bottom drain holes that will adapt to the end of the paint gun (with a air chuck type fitting) and drill some holes in a stair step pattern in the tube and turn it when spaying??
We use the same design when doing hot end flushes on turbine engines, it allows us get gas path all over the hot end section of the eng.
At least you will be able to see in the cowl vent area while spraying.
if you have a/c i dont see many problems from it, you could always add or enlarge the holes behind the inner fender.
if you have just plain old heat i dont know if i would want to, when i go down the highway the air pushes plenty of heat out and i dont even have to turn on my blower motor therefore less noise in the radio, if you didnt care about that then do the delete.
Thanks for the input guys. I am doing away with the heater anyway so that's not an issue.
I think I will go for it. I will let you know how it goes. I have a couple of what I think are first time mods happening as well, more on that later.
Originally Posted by HIO Silver
Dents and bumps seem to be less prone to rust in the cowl since the air comes in through the sides of the footwells. The cowl thusly provides drainage and a modicum of air flow. The cowl typically rusts along the welded seam of the assembly. The debris collects in the vent bowls converse to the above. In conclusion, yeah I would delete them.
Thanks for the input guys. I am doing away with the heater anyway so that's not an issue.
LOL HIO, are you an inganeer by chance?
Legally, no. I do hold a BS in land use planning with major coursework in architecture and civil engineering... I analyze designs all day long - subdivisions, new homes, residential additions, business signs, parking lots, circulation patterns, drainage patterns, etc.