Want to know how well those batteries work in the cold?

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Cold Starting Characteristics of LiFePO4 Batteries - YouTube

Not very well.

Josh

 

Ya Just Like Josh says at 1:04 you jump to 14-15 volts the alt just turned on at that point

a battery is considered fulley charged at 12.68volts so you have to get above that to be charging anything

It rises after the Crank because its just recovering from crank but DONT Mistake that for Alternator Charging

 

Alternator is definately charging at the 30 second mark to bring voltage over 12 volts with the engine, fuel pump and the GP's running.

That's why the voltage spikes to 15.10 volts when the GP's time out. That's the voltage spike you speak of.


Josh

 

well this therory sounds Possible but the video was short of the whole cycle it will stay High volts and then Drop off after time

The Only catch I see is then it stays in the 14+ volts range for 10-15 minutes then trails off to the 13.4-13.8volt range (Im also giving this info from what I see at the OBDII Port on my truck)

your truck stays above 14 volts right??

Maybe we should throw a DVM on the I-Sense wire IIRC the one that turn it on and see when it comes on with a cold truck

What you think of this^^^any good???this I-Sense deal maybe Im thinking wrong wire but you know where I am Going

 

I really think at 1:04 His Alt turned on at that time But Takes a split second for the regulator to sense voltage and then React and regulate it

His Voltage was under 12.68volt and right at that Exact time in video when he hit 12.68volts it spiked Volts to that 15+


IDK there has to be a Conclusive test we can do thats why I wonder about that I-Sense wire if Im talking about the right wire that is

 

I agree on the "I" wire, that's where the command or "excite" comes from to initiate the alternator. It could be possible, especially with dual alts they could be self exciting to some extent to raise the voltage above the normal 11.5 volts we usually see with KOER during GP cycle.

I'll try to set something up Sunday morning, cold start showing battery and "I" wire.

Does you alternator normally remain fairly consistent or inconsistent like I posted here?

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12467985

As for running voltage at operating temps, I normally see around 14 volts (DashBoss) but I would give the normal range 13.7-14.1 volts.

Josh

 

Seams kinda backwards to me as well

I have watched a few times But Not enough to say 100% seems like my alternator kicks back in fairly Fast with a Hot Re-Start almost instantly back to 13.4-14.0+volts after restart

When your truck does this is the EOT Reading Colder than it should be (I just remeber the Techs saying EOT Really played a role in this)??????

I going to try to watch this volts at Hot restart for a week or two see if I get the same as you

 

I have noticed it on 2 different situations:

One, start truck after work and GP kick off about 30 seconds, drive about 10 minutes to gas station, restart and GP cycle off 1:30 or so. So of course ECT was likely 120 and EOT maybe 100, but still restart and GP cycled longer than cold start.

Another I remember I drove an hour or more down the highway and stopped at a McDonalds... couldn't hear me in the drive-thru so I shut the truck off, ordered then restarted and noticed my GP didn't seem to cycle off until the second window. I believe the ECT and EOT were around 190/195 at that point.

Weird.

Josh

 

I have tons of this junk in the shop. no thanks.

 

CORRECT on diesels.

 

as much as i'm a battery *****..... sorry... i don't need a 9 pound
carbon fiber cased racing battery in my 5 ton vehicle.... at $1,400 each...
they are pretty sexy tho...

what really is going on with a battery is the amp hour rating.
ohm's law doesn't lie.

Oddesy's PC 1750 has an AH rating of 74 AH. the braille lithium
batteries have an AH rating of 20. they claim a "lithium amp hour"
rating of 84... which is a different test criteria. now, if you put
four of these in parallell, you'd have 80 AH, and a gadzillion
amount of CCA... wonder if they give volume discounts....
hm. note to self.... the batteries should not cost more than
the engine they are starting.... good rule of thumb.

lithium is better than lead acid, no doubt about that.. however,
in this application, not going formula one racing.,...

 

the alternator will produce it's output voltage irregardless of
the state of the batteries. what the batteries do with it, is the
batteries concern. the alternator doesn't care.

the OEM alternator is inadequate to properly charge batteries
fully. OEM alternator output is 13.2 volts or so, which will maintain
a battery, or ten batteries in parallell at about 50% charge.

you need about 14.2 volts to properly charge a lead acid battery.
AGM batteries need a bit more.. about 14.5~14.7 volts to properly
charge them to a static voltage of 12.6 volts rested.

when i start my van up, the alternator kicks in about 30 seconds
after starting, EVERY TIME. glow plugs on, or off, doesn't matter.
system voltage goes from 12.2 or 12.3, to 14.8, and you don't
need a voltmeter to tell when it happens. the engine changes
pitch slightly with the load. it goes from the no load diesel rattle
sound, and quiets down.

with the OEM alternator, with the glow plugs on, my batteries
are being DISCHARGED AT A 60 AMP CURRENT FLOW, with the
alternator charging... the alternator was a 110 amp unit, and
the glow plugs pull 175 AMPS till they turn off. the batteries
have to make up the difference.

that problem is compounded by the fact that the OEM alternator
doesn't charge the batteries past about 50%~60% charge.

the injectors need 48 volts to function well. the ficm uses an
amplifier to turn 12 volts into 48 volts. with lower battery voltage,
the ficm draws MORE CURRENT to get the correct output voltage.

more current creates more heat, and heat burns stuff up.

all the electrical system problems with the 6.0 start with the
alternator.

UNLESS YOUR SYSTEM VOLTAGE IS 14.2 VOLTS DC OR HIGHER
WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING, YOUR ALTERNATOR IS NOT
WORKING ADEQUATELY.

 

My post was "tongue-in-cheek" .........

I run with 4 batteries, so I would have to take out a loan for something as ridiculous as those (even if they did perform well in the cold - lol)!

 

How do you run with four batteries? Do you have them connected to the alternator so they can charge? This seems like a great idea. Also, where are they mounted?

Chuck

 

The alternator is charging depending on load, between 14.4 and 14.8 volts. With my new batteries last year, I was seeing 12.8 on start, rising to 13.1 to 13.2. This is measured at OBD port, so perhaps I am running higher, but whenever I meter at the batteries, I get the same. Even after a start and shut down before the new batteries have in theory fully charged, I can put on the charger and it is done in 5 minutes, the alt is filling up the batteries even on a short run. I have the stock 140 amp alternator original in the truck. I replaced with motorcraft 850 amp batteries. I clean terminals and do maintenance religiously.