White smoke from exhaust, no loss of coolant, oil, or anything else
#1
White smoke from exhaust, no loss of coolant, oil, or anything else
I have an f250 '05 blowing white smoke. The harder I get on it the more it blows. Took it to ford for diagnostics and they had me replace the egr valve. $400 later still white smoke! They said the injectors are fine according to the computer and that there were no signs of headgaskets issues.
The only thing I have not checked is the turbo seal. Any other ideas?
The only thing I have not checked is the turbo seal. Any other ideas?
#2
#4
Have you seen these two TSB's?
06-2-13***WHITE SMOKE, LACKS POWER, EXHAUST ODOR, SURGES, RUNS ROUGH, OR NO START - 6.0L
06-22-3***WHITE SMOKE, LACKS POWER, EXHAUST ODOR, SURGES, RUNS ROUGH, OR NO START - 6.0L
Don't know if it's related as these seem to be more cold start oriented.
06-2-13***WHITE SMOKE, LACKS POWER, EXHAUST ODOR, SURGES, RUNS ROUGH, OR NO START - 6.0L
06-22-3***WHITE SMOKE, LACKS POWER, EXHAUST ODOR, SURGES, RUNS ROUGH, OR NO START - 6.0L
Don't know if it's related as these seem to be more cold start oriented.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Probably you are getting enough fuel dillution to make up for the minor oil leak past the turbo seal. It will worsen over time till it is obvious. Nasty motor oil can wreck havoc on the injectors. Regen like condition can also happen if the turbo is frozen from crud exhaust boosting increase psi with rich fuel mixture. It just depends on where the turbo vanes freeze up. Do you have evidence of oil/contamination in your intercooler? The minute I see white smoke and a diesel I think Regen or a lot gasoline mixed with the diesel fuel.
#9
Injector Report from Dealership
Sorry to post three times in a row like this!<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
<o></o>
I just spoke with the Dealership and the Mechanic, they said they did a buzz test and balance test. Neither test showed signs of a bad injector. The only recommendation they had for me was to drive it until one failed, or replace all 8. <o></o>
<o></o>
If I drive it until one fails can’t it severely damage my engine, they said that it would just lose power and want to stall. <o></o>
<o></o>
Thoughts? Suggestions? <o></o>
<o></o>
I just spoke with the Dealership and the Mechanic, they said they did a buzz test and balance test. Neither test showed signs of a bad injector. The only recommendation they had for me was to drive it until one failed, or replace all 8. <o></o>
<o></o>
If I drive it until one fails can’t it severely damage my engine, they said that it would just lose power and want to stall. <o></o>
<o></o>
Thoughts? Suggestions? <o></o>
#10
Had to read and notice the year and the 6.0. Turbo vanes stick and raise the boost, causing your poor stretch bolts to yield. Given a combination of too much fuel from an injector and higher than normal boost, passive regen the nasty white smoke until it is cleared in the exhaust. There is a peculiar thing that happens with the EGR, higher than normal turbo boost, and excessive fuel injection or injection psi too high. Is the oil dilution a little higher also? There are a lot of after market goodies out there for this engine to better it. Obviously if the condition exists perty much all the time passive regen is happening constantly when it heats up the exhaust due to higher turbo boost. In normal regen of a newer motors after 2008 the back 2 injectors are the ones that do the excessive fuel injection for Regen using extremely high fuel injection pressures.
What commonly happens for your motor is the copper injector to head gasket on the injector fails and combustion gas finds its way into the HP fuel system. This burns out the o-ring sealing oil. The gas bubbles then are headed down the injector blowing excess amounts of fuel into the cylinder creating the nasty smoke out the tail pipe. Let go you will be in for a lot of expense. Change them now and oil and filter. Also injector pump recommended.
A reman injector is just as good as a new injector. I would call around to another dealer to verify your local area. If they are both high, buy on line, like from fordparts to search. There are core charges so you return the old back to them.
Just thinking in print.
What commonly happens for your motor is the copper injector to head gasket on the injector fails and combustion gas finds its way into the HP fuel system. This burns out the o-ring sealing oil. The gas bubbles then are headed down the injector blowing excess amounts of fuel into the cylinder creating the nasty smoke out the tail pipe. Let go you will be in for a lot of expense. Change them now and oil and filter. Also injector pump recommended.
A reman injector is just as good as a new injector. I would call around to another dealer to verify your local area. If they are both high, buy on line, like from fordparts to search. There are core charges so you return the old back to them.
Just thinking in print.
#13
I found some injector o-ring kits that you can buy. Wouldn't that be the best way to proceed? Save some money and get a good look at all the injectors.
6.0L Injector Seal / O-ring Kit
Let me know, thank you so much for your help!!
6.0L Injector Seal / O-ring Kit
Let me know, thank you so much for your help!!
#15
It is the copper gasket sealing the Injector at the head from combustion gases that leaks combustion psi back into the fuel system HP manifold. This causes the over injection/ dilution hydrolocking damage to the cylinder or fuel system many times. Recommending rebuilt injectors is if you have injection problems, too rich. You can replace the ones you find bad but not so easy to detect, usually a bore scope can see more when injector is removed. The o-rings seal the fuel/oil psi to the injector. The rebuilt injectors come with the copper gasket installed. It is a one time-one use gasket. If you have below specs fuel psi it is time to do the pump also.
Watch all of master techs videos after the 1st one. The info is great even if you hire it done.
Watch all of master techs videos after the 1st one. The info is great even if you hire it done.
Fuel injection control module issues are another common cause of 6.0L fuel injection concerns. If FICM codes, multiple fuel injector circuit low codes, or code U0105 are present then pursue FICM diagnosis and possible replacement before faulting the injectors.
EVERY time an injector is removed / replaced the copper tip washer and o-rings MUST be replaced. Be sure not to install two copper washers (Ensure the old one did not stay in the head.) CAUTION: The seal between the tip of the injector (where the copper tip washer contacts the head) is very critical. Make sure this area is clean, that only one washer is installed, and that the injector retaining bolt is properly torqued. If a leak occurs in this area, combustion gases will pass up the side of the injector and burn out the lower injector o-ring. This, in turn, will allow fuel into the cylinder which, in a worst-case scenario, can cause hydro-locking and engine damage. This is NOT a warrantable condition.
Operating the engine with insufficient fuel pressure or with air / combustion gas in the fuel will result in the top of the injector being hammered off. This is also not a warranty condition. Probable causes are: Tip gasket failure, bad fuel pump, plugged fuel filters, defective fuel pressure regulator, etc.
Properly tuning a Diesel requires injector maintenence if to rich/too lean a situation exists, for whatever reason dealing with the injectors. My experience is that when one injector fails, the rest are not far behind. From a time and labor standpoint it usually makes sense to replace the injectors as a set!
EVERY time an injector is removed / replaced the copper tip washer and o-rings MUST be replaced. Be sure not to install two copper washers (Ensure the old one did not stay in the head.) CAUTION: The seal between the tip of the injector (where the copper tip washer contacts the head) is very critical. Make sure this area is clean, that only one washer is installed, and that the injector retaining bolt is properly torqued. If a leak occurs in this area, combustion gases will pass up the side of the injector and burn out the lower injector o-ring. This, in turn, will allow fuel into the cylinder which, in a worst-case scenario, can cause hydro-locking and engine damage. This is NOT a warrantable condition.
Operating the engine with insufficient fuel pressure or with air / combustion gas in the fuel will result in the top of the injector being hammered off. This is also not a warranty condition. Probable causes are: Tip gasket failure, bad fuel pump, plugged fuel filters, defective fuel pressure regulator, etc.
Properly tuning a Diesel requires injector maintenence if to rich/too lean a situation exists, for whatever reason dealing with the injectors. My experience is that when one injector fails, the rest are not far behind. From a time and labor standpoint it usually makes sense to replace the injectors as a set!